Perpetual vs. Annual Calendar Watches
A popular complication found on watches is some aspect of a calendar function. This can be as simple as a date, or day-date, but can get more complicated moving up to annual and perpetual calendars. In looking at the two complicated calendars side by side, they are quite similar. So what sets them apart?
Keep reading to learn more about
> Calendar Watches
> What is a Perpetual Calendar Watch?
> What is an Annual Calendar Watch?
> Difference Between Annual and Perpetual Calendars
> Top Perpetual Calendar Watches
> Top Annual Calendar Watches
> Frequently asked questions about Annual and Perpetual Calendar Watches
Calendar Watches
At its basic level, a calendar watch is any watch that features a date. Calendar watches date back to the 1800’s. Since then, they have grown increasingly more complex and small. Today there are three primary categories of these watches:
- Complete Calendar Watches
- Annual Calendar Watches
- Perpetual Calendar watches
Complete calendar watches often feature the moonphase complication and while a lovely addition to any collection, in this blog we will focus on the ladder of the two and discuss annual calendar vs perpetual calendar watches.
What is a Perpetual Calendar Watch?
A perpetual calendar is designed to advance the day, date, and year correctly until the year 2100, taking into account any leap years, 28-days in February, and the difference between 30 and 31 day months. The perpetual calendar also typically indicates the year, moonphase, and highlights a leap year indicator.
The oldest known perpetual calendar pocket watch was made in 1762 by Thomas Mudge, with one being sold in auction at Sotheby’s and another housed at the British Museum. Before Patek Philippe filed their patent for the annual calendar they filed a patent for a perpetual calendar mechanism, in 1889, to be used in pocket watches.
What is an Annual Calendar Watch?
An annual calendar watch showcases the day, date, and month. It adds an extra layer of complexity when compared to the simpler day-date or complete calendar. Unlike these two more basic calendar movements, an annual calendar does not need to be adjusted every month.
Difference Between Annual and Perpetual Calendars
Looking back at how the perpetual calendar works, the main difference between an annual and perpetual calendar is whether or not it has to be manually set every year. There are a few other distinct differences as well.
Annual Calendar:
> Requires manual adjustment at the end of February
> Patek Philippe released the first annual calendar wristwatch in 1996
> Lower price point
Perpetual Calendar
> Does not require manual adjustment until 2100
> Patek Philippe created the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925
> Higher price point
Top Perpetual Calendar Watches
While calendar movements have been around in watchmaking, the annual calendar complication for a wristwatch was introduced and patented by Patek Philippe in 1996. In the last 25 years, the movement has continued to be improved and is now a feature found across many different brands and models. Browse our top choices for perpetual calendar watches.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Perpetual Calendar
Taking the calendar a step further is the JLC Master Perpetual. While there are three sub-dials and a moon phase, the perpetual calendar is read easily and is balanced. Starting at 12 o’clock, there is the month and inset is the year. At 3 o’clock is the day of the week, 6 o’clock is the 29 ½ moon phase and the date is found at 9 o’clock. The pusher at 8 o’clock adjusts the day, date, and month and doesn’t allow for a random combination of dates.
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A Lange & Sohne Datograph Perpetual
The Datograph Perpetual from A. Lange & Sohne is a watch that is hard to not love. The 41mm case is designed to house both the perpetual calendar and flyback chronograph. The date is in a large double window at 12 o’clock, activated by the pusher at 10 o’clock. There is also no accidental pushing, on the Datograph Perpetual the crown must be out to be able to compress and change the date and coordinated day of the week at 9 o’clock. The month can be read at 3 o’clock with the chronograph 30-minute register. The leap year indicator is set just below the months. The moon phase balances out the dial at 6 o’clock.
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Patek Philippe Grand Complications Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Rounding out our list of current favorites is the Grand Complications Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. This is a larger dress watch size at 41mm and is a watch that commands wrist presence. Both the watch and case are remarkably complex. The perpetual calendar can be read across the large day and month apertures across the top, date, and moon phase together at 6 o’clock. Balancing out the bottom of the dial is an am/pm indicator and the leap year indicator. There is a pusher at 6 o’clock between the lugs to adjust the perpetual calendar.
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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Quantieme Perpetual
The first perpetual calendar wristwatch from Audemars Piguet dates back to 1950. Today their wristwatches, particularly the Royal Oak Quantieme Perpetual, remains a favorite among collectors and enthusiasts for its elegant beauty, variety of styles, and exceptional craftsmanship. Explore teh xx more in depth with Todd Searle in our article In Focus: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar.
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Vacheron Constantin Patrimony
An example of elegant style wrapped into a modern watch, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony is a beautiful, yet simple watch that takes a minimalist approach to style. It has a slender case—just over 8 mm— that is just big enough to house the caliber 1731 and calendar complication. Learn more about this luxury wristwatch with Tim Mosso in his video review of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony, ref. 85180.
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Top Annual Calendar Watches
While perpetual calendar watches are quite popular, annual calendar watches remain a favorite for users that prefer the ritual that comes with watch care, such as manual winding and adjustment at the end of February. We’ve created a list of our top five selections for annual calendar watches. Browse our list below.
Rolex Sky-Dweller
The Sky-Dweller is one of the most complicated Rolex models. Not only does the watch feature an annual calendar, but it also has a second timezone read using the inner ring. The months of the annual calendar are indicated in 12 apertures around the dial, aligning with the indices, with the current month marked in red. The date appears under the cyclops at 3 o’clock and is linked to the local timezone. The “Ring Command” rotating bezel is used to select the function you wish to set.
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IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar
A beautiful complication, the IWC Portugeiser showcases a classic and easy-to-read calendar function. The month, date, and day are all read across the three-window register at 12 o’clock. It also boasts a 7-day power reserve, easily tracked in the sub-dial at 3 o’clock.
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F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier
In true F.P. Journe design, the Octa Calendrier showcases an annual calendar with a retrograde date along the left side of the dial. Once the hand reaches 30 or 31 days, it will snap back around the dial starting the next month. The day and month are indicated within the arch of the retrograde date, while the hours, minutes, and seconds offset the dial on the right side.
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Patek Philippe Complications Annual Calendar Chronograph
Taking the complication up a notch, Patek Philippe combines the annual calendar with a chronograph in the 5960/1A-001. Similar to the IWC, the day, date, and month are all read along the top of the dial. Balancing out the bottom half is a single chronograph register. To adjust the annual calendar there are pushes on the flank of the case.
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Vacheron Constantin Historiques
The Historique line incorporates the classic look of iconic models from Vacheron Constantin with an updated, more modern look. In keeping to the classic feel of their earlier models, the Historique is available as an annual calendar and manual wind. For watch collectors that enjoy the ritual of winding their watch and adjusting it every year, the Vacheron Constantin Historique is an excellent choice.
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What favorite perpetual or annual calendar did we miss from our list? Ready to learn more about different functions? Continue reading to learn what makes a mechanical watch.
Related Reading:
- A Date With Destiny: Know Your Calendar Watches
- A Chronograph History Lesson: A Matter of Timing
- Gift Guide: Complicated Watches
- 5 things About Patek Philippe
- Iconic Celebrity Watches From Hollywood to Politicians
Frequently Asked Questions About Annual and Perpetual Calendar Watches
With luxury watches becoming increasingly more complicated year over year, it can be difficult to discern one kind of watch over another. Here are our most common questions about annual and perpetual calendar watches.
H3: What adjustments does an annual calendar watch need?
The only adjustments that an annual calendar needs is at the end of February. The movement does not account for the shorter month or leap years. For the other 11 months in the year, the movement will automatically adjust between 30 or 31 days.
How does a perpetual calendar work?
A perpetual calendar is designed to advance the day, date, and year correctly until the year 2100, taking into account any leap years, 28-days in February, and the difference between 30 and 31 day months. The perpetual calendar also typically indicates the year, moonphase, and highlights a leap year indicator.
The movements powering the perpetual calendar is extremely complex and can have hundreds of mechanical parts used. The movement uses the wheels, gears, and levers to calculate the 1,461 days (four years) and calculate the correct date.
How long does a perpetual calendar last?
Modern perpetual calendars are designed to be accurate until the year 2100. This year is a special year because it is not a leap year in the Gregorian calendar. The Gregorian calendar skips leap years at the turn of the century, so even though the watches would technically be correct with their leap year, 2100 is unique. As long as you keep your watch wound, both an annual and perpetual calendar will last a lifetime and more.
Updated March 30, 2022