Jewelry Glossary: Essential Terms & Definitions
From the first sparkle of a diamond to the sculpted lines of a gold bracelet, every piece of fine jewelry tells a story — of artistry, innovation, and timeless beauty. Yet behind the brilliance lies a language all its own: cuts, settings, techniques, and materials that define how a jewel looks and feels.
This Jewelry Glossary from The 1916 Company demystifies that world. Whether you’re a passionate collector or simply curious about the craftsmanship behind your favourite designs, this guide offers clear definitions and visual understanding of key terms — from the elegance of a Rivière necklace to the ingenuity of an expandable ring.
Each entry reveals not just what a term means, but why it matters — helping you see jewelry through the eyes of a craftsman, a designer, and a collector.
Jewelry Types & Styles
Necklaces
Bib Necklace – A wide, multi-strand necklace covering the chest, often adorned with gemstones or intricate metalwork, as seen in Seaman Schepps creations.
Choker – A short necklace worn closely around the neck, sometimes featuring pearls or diamonds, elegantly accenting the neckline.
Lariat Necklace – A long, rope-style necklace without a clasp, often tied or looped for creative styling, such as in Nouvel Heritage designs.
Pendant Necklace – Features a central ornament—gemstone, charm, or medallion—seen in Kwiat or Elizabeth Locke pieces.
Rivière Necklace – A continuous line of diamonds or gemstones, often graduated in size, epitomising refined elegance and found in collections by Rahaminov Diamonds or Norman Silverman.
Bracelets
Bangle – A rigid, circular bracelet that slips over the wrist, often stacked. Popular examples include Roberto Coin, Dinh Van and Chanel.
Cable Bracelet – Twisted helix-style metal, seen in David Yurman and Alor designs, offering modern elegance.
Cuff Bracelet – A solid, often wide bracelet that slips on without a clasp; ranges from minimalist metal to gem-encrusted luxury from Roberto Coin or Seaman Schepps.
Tennis Bracelet – A flexible row of matched diamonds or gemstones, known for understated sparkle and classic style. See Rahaminov, The 1916 Company’s Flexie line or Norman Silverman for inspiration.
Rings
Band – A continuous circular ring, often plain or subtly detailed—ideal for weddings or stacking, as with Precision Set designs.
Cocktail Ring – A bold, oversized colored gemstone ring designed to make a statement, seen in Temple St Clair or Marco Bicego collections.
Engagement Ring – A ring symbolising commitment, typically featuring a prominent gemstone, often a diamond. Examples include Henri Daussi, The 1916 Company, Rahaminov, Norman Silverman and Precision Set.
Expandable Ring – An innovative ring that can expand to become a bracelet—a playful yet sophisticated design realised by Serafino Consoli and Mattia Cielo.
Earrings
Ear Stud – A simple earring that sits directly on the earlobe, often with a single gemstone or metal detail. Featured in Dinh Van, Kwiat, Roberto Coin and Mikimoto.
Drop Earrings – Hang below the earlobe, vary in length and design for movement and elegance; examples include Gumuchian, Temple St Clair and The 1916 Company Collection.
Ear Cuff – A non-pierced earring that wraps around the outer edge of the ear for a modern, statement look, found in Chanel and Nouvel Heritage pieces.
Hoop Earrings – Circular or semi-circular earrings encircling the earlobe, available in multiple sizes and materials; see The 1916 Company Collection, Kwiat, Roberto Coin, Chanel and EF Collection.
Gemstone Cuts & Shapes
Asscher Cut – Square step-cut with cropped corners, known for vintage appeal and clarity display, used by Norman Silverman.
Brilliant (Round) Cut – The 57-58 facet classic designed for maximum sparkle; many Precision Set diamonds use this cut.
Cushion Cut – Combines rounded corners with large facets for a soft, romantic sparkle—celebrated in Henri Daussi engagement rings.
Emerald Cut – Rectangular step-cut emphasising clarity and elegance; common in Norman Silverman.
Marquise Cut – Football-shaped diamond with pointed ends, creating a larger appearance and finger-lengthening effect; featured in The 1916 Company’s designs.
Oval Cut – An elongated brilliant-cut diamond known for brilliance and elongation; seen in Rahaminov Diamonds.
Pear Cut – Teardrop-shaped diamond combining round and marquise features, often used in pendants or earrings.
Princess Cut – Square or rectangular brilliant-cut diamond offering modern sparkle and symmetry.
Settings & Techniques
Bezel Setting – A gemstone fully encased by a metal rim for a sleek, modern finish and protection; seen in Kwiat and Gumuchian.
Channel Setting – Stones set in a continuous row between two metal walls, creating a smooth, streamlined look; characteristic of Norman Silverman.
Cluster Setting – Groupings of smaller stones that simulate the appearance of a larger gem, particularly popular in Kwiat statement rings and earrings.
Halo Setting – A central stone encircled by smaller diamonds to enhance brilliance and size perception; often seen in Cartier and Tiffany & Co. designs.
Invisible Setting – Gems placed without visible metal between them for a seamless, floating surface effect; signature of Van Cleef & Arpels.
Pavé Setting – Small diamonds set closely together for continuous sparkle, used in Roberto Coin, Phillips House and The 1916 Company Collection.
Prong Setting – Metal claws secure a gemstone while maximising light exposure for brilliance; seen in Zoe Chicco.
Gemstones & Materials
Akoya Pearls – Classic Japanese pearls prized for roundness and bright luster, used by Mikimoto.
Diamond – The hardest natural gemstone, symbolising love, endurance and timeless elegance.
Emerald – A deep green gemstone valued for rarity and color intensity.
Gold – The foundational precious metal available in yellow, white and rose hues, essential to fine jewelry.
Platinum – A rare and durable metal prized for its silvery sheen and strength.
Ruby – A red corundum gemstone representing passion and vitality, often set in engagement and statement pieces.
Sapphire – A precious gemstone, typically rich blue, symbolising wisdom and loyalty.
Spinel – A vibrant gemstone historically mistaken for ruby, now prized in high-jewelry collections.
South Sea Pearls – Large, luxurious pearls with a satin luster, often white or golden, featured in Mikimoto designs.
Sterling Silver – A bright, versatile metal alloy used in both everyday and luxury pieces.
Tahitian Pearls – Dark, exotic pearls from French Polynesia boasting iridescent overtones.
Craftsmanship & Techniques
Enameling – Fusing coloured glass powder to metal for vivid effects; seen in Buccellati and Fabergé designs.
Engraving – Carving decorative patterns into metal surfaces by hand or machine; found in Temple St Clair.
Filigree – Delicate metalwork formed by twisting fine threads of gold or silver into lacy designs.
Granulation – Application of tiny metal beads creating intricate surface effects, characteristic of Roberto Coin.
Hand Polishing – The manual process that ensures metal surfaces reach maximum shine and smoothness.
Micro-Setting – Precision technique for setting very small gemstones, often under magnification.
Piercing – Cutting intricate openwork patterns into metal surfaces, as seen in Persée jewellery.
Texturing – Applying finishes (satin, brushed, hammered) for depth and visual interest; Buccellati is an expert.
Terminology & Design Language
Carat – A unit of gemstone weight (1 carat = 0.2 grams).
Clarity – Measure of inclusions or imperfections in gemstones.
Color Grade – The diamond colour scale from D (colourless) to Z (light yellow).
High Jewelry (Haute Joaillerie) – The highest expression of craftsmanship, creativity and materials in fine jewellery.
Luster – The reflective quality or shine of a gemstone or metal, especially pearls.
Patina – The natural surface sheen that develops on metals over time.
Provenance – The documented history or origin of a gemstone or jewellery piece.
Statement Piece – Bold jewellery designed to attract attention and express personality.
Quick Tips: Measuring Your Ring Size
Wrap a soft measuring tape or a strip of paper around the base of your finger.
Mark where the ends meet and convert that length to your ring size using our chart.
Measure at the end of the day when fingers tend to be slightly larger for accuracy.
If you’re between sizes, consult a jewelery specialist— dedicated service centers often recommend sizing based on design and stone setting.
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