Jewelry 101 – Gemstone Classification
When it comes to classifying gemstones, there are several categories used by gemologists and jewelers that often lead to confusion. Let’s take a closer look at the main categories: precious, fine, colored, and ornamental stones—and why some gemstones, like spinels or Paraiba tourmalines, though not classified as “precious,” can sometimes be more valuable.
PRECIOUS vs. FINE GEMSTONES
Traditionally, the term “precious” refers to the big four: diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires. These gemstones have historically been valued for their rarity, durability, and beauty. They are often associated with luxury and high-status jewelry pieces. The precious category tends to be driven by tradition and consumer perception, rather than modern gemological standards.
Then come fine and colored gemstones—what many still refer to as semi-precious—though as of February 2017, the term “semi-precious” has been officially discouraged in the jewelry lexicon.
Fine gemstones include a broader range of stones that, while not part of the “precious” category, possess qualities like exceptional clarity, color, and rarity. Some examples are tanzanite, tourmaline, alexandrite, and spinel. They’re highly prized, and their value often surpasses that of traditionally precious gemstones, particularly when scarcity is taken into account.
In the realm of colored gemstones, we find stones like garnet, topaz, amethyst, and citrine, which are widely used in both fine and fashion jewelry. They are also extremely affordable, in case you were wondering. While these stones may not be considered precious, their quality is still evaluated based on factors such as hue, saturation, clarity, and carat weight.
ORNAMENTAL STONES
Ornamental stones—currently back in trend—include stones that are primarily valued for their aesthetic qualities rather than rarity or transparency. The most famous examples include malachite, onyx, lapis lazuli, and turquoise, but jade, coral, labradorite, and aventurine also fall into this category. These stones are used in both jewelry and watch dials. They often display intriguing patterns and colors and are valued for their beauty and craftsmanship.
EXCEPTIONS TO THE RULE
Here’s where things can get tricky. While spinels and Paraiba tourmalines may not fall under the “precious gemstone” classification, they can be far more valuable than diamonds, emeralds, rubies, or sapphires, depending on their quality.
For example, Paraiba tourmaline is one of the most sought-after gems due to its electrifying neon-blue hue and extreme rarity. This particular gem is more valuable per carat than many sapphires or emeralds. Similarly, spinel—once overlooked—is now gaining recognition for its stunning range of colors, high brilliance, and affordability relative to other gemstones.
Mandarin garnet (spessartite) is particularly prized for its vivid orange hue, often described as “fiery” or “electric,” similar to fire opals. The most desirable stones display a bright, pure orange with excellent clarity and brilliance. What makes these gemstones so valuable is not only their striking color but also their rarity. High-quality specimens are difficult to find, especially in large sizes.
The discrepancy in value often comes down to factors like rarity, market demand, and quality. With advancements in gemology and changes in consumer tastes, gemstones once considered semi-precious can command higher prices due to their unique qualities and scarcity.
In today’s market, it’s essential to understand that the terms “precious” or “semi-precious” are more historical than they are definitive of a gemstone’s actual worth. With stones like Paraiba tourmaline and spinel challenging traditional views, it’s clear that beauty, rarity, and consumer demand are the real drivers of value in the world of gemstones. By using these terms correctly, we can appreciate the diverse world of gemstones and better understand the dynamics that shape their value.