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Patek Philippe: Highlights, Trends, and Predictions in 2022

The 1916 Company6 Min ReadJuly 1 2022

For the first time, Patek Philippe unveiled its new watches in Geneva at Watches & Wonders in 2022 — the home city of the brand and the Stern family. From remarkable updates to the Nautilus, Aquanaut, and Calatrava collections to model discontinuations that are sending shockwaves through the brand’s catalog, there is so much to catch up on and look forward to. Join us as we tee up this year’s predictions for the brand, and find out why the collection will likely feature more dress watches, stainless steel pieces, and Calatrava models. And, be sure to watch Tim Mosso in the The 1916 Company Studios as he recounts everything you need to know about where Patek Philippe is heading.

Zoom InDiscontinued Patek-Nautilus-5711-1a-011

Highlights & Important Updates in 2022

As another busy year ramps up for Patek Philippe, here are a few key takeaways to keep in mind:

> The Nautilus 5711 has been discontinued
> The Aquanaut collection turns 25
> The Calatrava dress watch prepares to celebrate its 90th anniversary
> The Calatrava 5196 in all three golds and platinum will end in March 2022
> The 5230G perpetual calendar is on track to be discontinued
> World time reference 5230 in white gold and rose gold will be discontinued

Trending Patek Philippe Models

With a brand that’s known for its innovations and forward-thinking, it can be challenging to predict what the year ahead will look like — but that doesn’t mean we can’t try. Check out the top Patek Philippe trends and models that we’re predicting to take center stage in 2022, and watch a more in-depth analysis when you join Tim Mosso in “All The New Watches Foretold.

The Nautilus

Zoom InPatek Philippe Nautilus Moonphase 5712 1ANautilus ref. 5712/1A

In 2021, Patek Philippe announced that it would discontinue the Nautilus 5711 at the end of the year. While this didn’t mean that they’d discontinue the entire model line, its most famous model’s retirement suggested that the Nautilus collection would be a less prominent piece of the brand’s watch catalog. A green dial model, ref. 5711/1a-014, and a Tiffany blue model, ref. 5711/1a-018, marked the end of a 16-year production run for the Nautilus 5711.

Despite this sad goodbye, models like the Nautilus 5990, 5726, and 5712 remain in production. These references will be forced to share more publicity and emphasis with other Patek Philippe collections like the Calatrava dress watches and Aquanaut sports watches. Finally, in alignment with the brand’s seemingly renewed focus on stainless steel, we’re predicting that the top 3 most sought-after Nautilus references in 2022 will be:

> Ref. 5712/1A-001
> Ref. 5711/1A-011
> Ref. 5990/1A-001

The Aquanaut

Zoom InPatek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167A-001Aquanaut ref. 5167A-001

There is potential for the Aquanaut sports watch family step into the void of its older brother. With the flagship gone, Aquanaut 5167A becomes the premier Patek Philippe sports watch in stainless steel. With or without a matching steel bracelet, the Aquanaut 5167 is the only game in town for watch collectors seeking a simple sports watch from Patek Philippe — which is why we’re including it on our list of top-selling Aquanauts this year.

With the 25th anniversary of the Aquanaut happening, there is room for Patek to launch a new model — perhaps a 6167A — to carry the mantle of Patek sports watches after the 5711. A new movement, a new bracelet, new dial colors, and a new reference all could energize the now quarter-century-old Aquanaut model line. For the same reason, collectors will also likely be seeking out unique favorites and striking dial and band colors with the ref. 5968A-001 featuring an orange rubber strap, or the ref. 5164R-001 equipped with a brown dial and rose gold case. To sum it up, here are the 3 Aquanaut references that we think will be trending in 2022:

> Ref. 5167A-001
> Ref. 5968A-001
> Ref. 5164R-001

The Calatrava

Zoom InPatek_Philippe_Calatrava_Pilot_Travel_Time_Ref.5524G-001Calatrava ref. 5524G-001

The Patek Philippe Calatrava also celebrates a significant anniversary in 2022. 1932 marked the first year of Stern family ownership of Patek Philippe — and it also holds special significance as the year Patek started using reference numbers for its models. Patek Philippe reference 96 was the first watch launched under the Sterns, the first Patek to have a reference number, and — retroactively — the Patek Philippe 96 became the first model in what came to be called the “Calatrava” family of dress watches.

Patek Philippe has announced its intention to discontinue the Calatrava 5196 for 2022, so a successor model may arrive soon. But, before any new reference can take its place, many collectors will likely be enticed by the collection’s existing dress watches that showcase a similar spirit to the beloved 5196 — here are the 3 models that will likely make waves this year:

> Ref. 5524G-001
> Ref. 6119G-001
> Ref. 6007A-001

Patek Philippe has been producing luxury timepieces for over 180 years and innovating new designs, techniques, and complications along their journey — so there’s always something new to discover. Learn more about the latest trends and styles when you check out their top men’s watches.

Discontinued Patek Philippe Models and Features

Zoom InPatek Philippe ref. 5230G-001Complications ref. 5230G-001

Sometimes the phrase “out with the old, in with the new” hits too close to home for seasoned collectors and brand enthusiasts. But, all good things must come to an end. This year, the ref. 5230G Perpetual Calendar is on track to be discontinued, but new versions like the ref. 5230R and ref. 5230J may be launched. Additionally, the ref. 5204R Split Seconds Perpetual Calendar Chronograph will be discontinued, and Patek may replace it with a model in yellow gold, white gold, or even stainless steel.

Next on the lists of discontinued watches — both the salmon dial and blue dial versions of the ref. 5372P Monopusher Split Seconds Perpetual Calendar Chronograph are scheduled to end. Finally, the cloisonne enamel yellow gold World Time ref. 5231J will be discontinued but offered in other metals.

If you’re disappointed to see a few of your favorites go, be sure to check out The 1916 Company’s collection of authenticated and collector-quality Patek Philippe timepieces. The secondary market is always a great place to find rare watches that are no longer in production.

Final Predictions for the Year Ahead

This year marks the 90th anniversary of the original Patek Philippe reference 96, a watch that collectors recognize as the unofficial ancestor of today’s Patek Calatrava line. Moreover, the seminal Patek Philippe 96 was the first Patek watch to include a reference number and the first to be designed by a member of the Stern family. Further, 2022 marks 90 years since the Stern brothers Jean and Charles-Henri purchased Patek Philippe out of bankruptcy. Perhaps this historical tie has helped determine new brand focuses for the year ahead — we’re eager to see what timepieces step into the spotlight.

Overall, it’s safe to say that Patek Philippe is shifting its emphasis in 2022. Consistent with owner and CEO Thierry Stern’s desire to avoid one model eclipsing the brand, the new collection likely will feature more dress watches, dress watches offered in stainless steel, and a refocusing on the Patek Philippe Calatrava collection.