Rolex Submariner 16800: Vintage Milestone & Time Capsule (VIDEO BLOG)

Transitional Rolex is the definition of cool.

First, because auction hype hasn’t soullessly commercialized this era of vintage Rolex (yet). Second, because these watches tell the story of Rolex that links its tool-watch past to its prestige present. In doing so, watches like this Rolex Submariner 16800 embody the best of both eras.

From the old-school, this Rolex Submariner retains the classically cool aged tritium “patina” dial that takes effect when an original survives the ravages of time (and foolhardy factory service replacements). This example features the highly-desirable “matte” dial with printed tritium indexes; most Rolex Submariner 16800 survivors feature the latter applied indexes and gloss dial.

As a bonus, the vintage bezel on this example exhibits outstanding patina that complements the dial to stunning effect. Despite the vintage appearance of the luminescent “pearl” at the bezel index, the overall impression of the metal ring is immaculate. Given the propensity of these bezels to degrade like the flanks of New York City subway cars, the combination of a surviving “patina pearl” and complete printed bezel is a minor miracle and collector’s catnip.

Fine tapered lugs, minimalist case and crown guards, and easy-wearing lightweight Rolex Oyster bracelet ensure that this veteran sports watch wears with the comfort and discretion of a top tier dress model when black ties beckon.

But change can be good. Consider that the scratch resistant sapphire crystal, unidirectional “safety bezel,” and high-beat (4hz) movement – the Submariner‘s first – keeps the experience contemporary. Rolex‘s chronometer-grade caliber 3035 was COSC-spec in the early 1980s when this 16800 rolled out of Geneva; the movement in this example continues to beat the COSC’s exacting tolerance on our timing machines… in all six positions.

The Rolex Submariner 16800 generation also introduced a modern standard of water resistance to the Submariner line. The case’s 300m (1,000ft) depth rating endures to the modern era, but the 16800 lays exclusive claim to “first 300m” status within the historic pantheon of Rolex milestones.

This really is the best of both worlds; a vintage watch with modern-Rolex performance. Wear it, enjoy it, and don’t worry. This Rolex can still roll out. See it in high-resolution images on www.watchuwant.com.