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The History of Patek Philippe: Legacy of Swiss Watchmaking

Emily Smith11 Min ReadJan 21 2022

For over 180 years, Patek Philippe has stood as a symbol of precision, artistry, and tradition in Swiss horology. Founded in 1839, the brand has remained independent and family-owned, distinguishing itself through groundbreaking innovation and a dedication to craftsmanship. From royal commissions to modern masterpieces like the Nautilus and Calatrava, Patek Philippe’s history is not just about watches — it’s about shaping the evolution of luxury timekeeping itself. In this guide, we’ll explore the origins of Patek Philippe, its key milestones, lesser-known facts, and what makes this brand one of the most respected names in haute horology.

Patek Philippe History: From Founding to Present

Zoom InAntoine Patek and Adrien Philippe — founders of Patek Philippe

The brand’s journey began in 1839 when Polish watchmaker Antoine Norbert de Patek and Czech partner François Czapek founded Patek, Czapek & Cie. Initially, they crafted pocket watches for European nobility. A turning point came in 1844, when Patek met French watchmaker Adrien Philippe, the inventor of the keyless winding mechanism. This partnership led to the formation of Patek, Philippe & Cie in 1851—a name still synonymous with horological excellence.

International Expansion & U.S. Partnership

In 1851, in addition to a renaming of the brand, this year brought the first step into expanding. Not only did Patek Philippe showcase their pocket watches at the Great Exhibition in London, but Queen Victoria acquired a pendant watch with diamond roses on blue enamel. Patek Philippe has a long standing history of designing watches for women.

Zoom InPatek Philippe Tiffany 5711 with white dial

Patek Philippe gained global attention at the 1851 Great Exhibition in London. Queen Victoria acquired a pendant watch with diamond-set enamel, establishing royal endorsement early on. That same year, Antoine Patek traveled to the United States and met Charles Lewis Tiffany in New York. Their meeting launched a transatlantic partnership—Tiffany & Co. remains the only American retailer with co-branded dials from Patek Philippe.

Engineering Innovation & Patents

Adrien Philippe was the technical visionary behind many of the brand’s most important breakthroughs. In 1863, he developed the first tourbillon-equipped pocket watch. His invention of the slipping mainspring prevented overwinding and remains in use today.

Zoom InPatek Philippe 5960P Annual Calendar Chronograph

Patek Philippe would go on to secure over 100 patents across components like dials, clasps, and movements. Landmark innovations include:

  • 1881: Precision regulator

  • 1889: Perpetual calendar mechanism

  • 1902: First double chronograph

  • 1949: Gyromax balance

  • 1953: Self-winding caliber 12-600AT

  • 1977: Ultra-thin automatic caliber 240

  • 1996: Annual calendar mechanism

Each invention reinforced the brand’s reputation for mechanical ingenuity and precision.

Patek Philippe has filed over 100 different patents for watch dials, cases and clasps, among others.

Patek Philippe Ownership: The Stern Family Legacy

Zoom InHenry Graves Jr. Supercomplication pocket watchGraves Supercomplication Pocketwatch via Patek.com

After economic challenges post–World War I, Patek Philippe was acquired in 1932 by Jean and Charles Stern, whose family still owns and leads the brand. Formerly dial suppliers to Patek, the Stern brothers introduced cornerstone collections such as the Calatrava, Nautilus, and Aquanaut.

Graves commissioned a Supercomplication pocketwatch that took 8 years to design, develop and deliver from 1925-1933. This pocketwatch had 24 functions and two dials, with 920 parts, making it one of the most complicated watches ever made. We know this piece today as the Henry Graves Supercomplication.

Today, Thierry Stern—grandson of Henri Stern—continues to uphold the family legacy, emphasizing in-house production and the balance of tradition and innovation.

Transition into the Stern Family

Zoom InJean and Charles Stern of Patek Philippe - Stern family photoJean and Charles Stern via Patek.com

Patek Philippe has been family-owned by the Sterns since 1932. Thierry Stern currently leads the company, maintaining a balance between heritage and innovation.

Graves’ commission helped Patek Philippe maintain operations through the low period after World War I with the economic downturn of the Great Depression and global economic crisis. However, in 1932 the Stern brothers, Jean and Charles Henri, purchased the brand, combining their dial manufacturer with the prestige of Patek Philippe. The Stern dial manufacturer originally supplied dials to Patek Philippe building a trusting bond between the companies before the acquisition.

Since 1932, the Sterns introduced new collections including the Calatrava, Ellipse, Nautilus, Aquanaut and the Twenty~4 and have continued pushing Patek Philippe to the top of watchmaking standards and the next generations have continued to lead the manufacturer. In 1958 Henri Stern took over as president, followed by Philippe Stern in 1993, and most recently Thierry Stern became president in 2009.

Zoom InPatek Philippe Perpetual Calendar watch

Timeline of Patek Philippe Milestones and Innovations

With over 180 years of producing watches, there have been some standout years and important dates for Patek Philippe outside of filing patents.

  • 1941 – regular production of perpetual calendar watches began
  • 1962 – a tourbillon movement achieved the world timekeeping precision record for a mechanical watch at the Geneva Observatory, this record is still unbeaten today
  • 1968 – Golden Ellipse collection launch
  • 1976 – Nautilus collection launch
  • 1985 – ultra thin perpetual calendar reference 3940 launch
  • 1993 – Gondolo collection launch
  • 1996 – new production facility opened in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva
  • 1997 – Aquanaut collection launch
  • 1999 – Twenty~4 collection launch
  • 2001 – Sky Moon Tourbillon, Reference 5002 was launched, marking the most complicated wristwatch released by the brand
  • 2006 – launch of the silicon-based Spiromax balance spring
  • 2008 – launch of the silicon-based escapement: Pulsomax
  • 2011 – Oscillomax launch combining the Spiromax, Pulsomax and GyromaxSi balance
  • 2011 – first ladies minute repeater launched
  • 2015 – Calatrava Pilot Travel Time launch
  • 2019  – Calatrava Weekly Calendar launch

The brand is known for precision timekeeping, including a tourbillon movement that still holds a world record set in 1962. This list could keep going, especially for a brand with as much innovation and history like Patek Philippe. Having a record of this history is especially important for the brand.

Museum & Global Exhibitions

In 2001, they opened the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. Philippe Stern combined his love of horology, watchmaking artistry, and tradition into building this museum for people to enjoy. The collection is not limited to just Patek Philippe, there are around 2,500 watches, portrait miniatures and other precious objects on display spanning 500 years of European, Swiss and Genevan watchmaking artistry.

Zoom InPatek Philippe watches and history

The brand has also hosted the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition across the world showcasing an insider view into the world of Patek Philippe. In 2012, this was hosted in Dubai, 2013 in Munich, 2015 in London, 2017 in New York and most recently 2019 saw the exhibition in Singapore.

5 Surprising Facts About Patek Philippe Watches

1. Henry Graves Supercomplication Is Not Patek Philippe’s Most Complicated Watch

Zoom InPatek Philippe Calibre 89 - Most Complicated Watch

The honor of the most complicated watch was introduced in 1989, celebrating the 150th anniversary of Patek Philippe. This complicated watch is the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 which features 33 complications and was built with 1,728 components. Similar to the Henry Graves pocketwatch, this took five years to research and an additional four years to develop.

2. Patek Philippe Had Electronic Movements Before The Quartz Crisis

Zoom InVintage Patek Philippe Photoelectric Table Clock1959 Patek Philippe Photoelectric Clock via Phillips.com

In 1954 and 1956, Patek Philippe was issued two patents for photoelectric table clocks. The first all-electronic clock was built two years later and received the ‘Award for Miniaturization’ in the United States. During the quartz crisis, the brand also utilized the Beta 21 movement to compete with the growing demand for quartz watches. This movement was used by a group of Swiss manufacturers including Rolex.

Patek Philippe embraces the quartz movement. While some luxury brands have since transitioned away from the use of quartz, Patek Philippe still produces some models with the highly accurate technology, such as the ladies Nautilus, Aquanaut, Gondolo and Twenty~4.

3. Everything is Produced In-House

Zoom InPatek Philippe watchmakers crafting in-house componentsPatek Philippe Watchmakers Produce all In-House Components via Patek.com

Whatever the part within the watch, Patek Philippe produces it in-house rather than utilize external suppliers. This allows for full control and maintaining strict standards. This is also why super complicated watches, like the Calibre 89, take years to develop. In addition, all watches are finished by hand rather than machinery.

4. The First Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Wristwatch Was for a Woman

Zoom InFirst ladies' minute repeater wristwatch by Patek PhilippePatek Philippe First Ladies Minute Repeater Watch via Patek.com

In 1916, an Art Deco style minute repeater with a platinum case and chain link bracelet was developed for a Mrs. D.O. Wickham. While the brand had previously produced minute repeater pendant watches or pocket watches, this was the first wristwatch. This watch was a 5-minute repeater watch that would chime the hours, quarter hours and then the nearest number of 5 minute intervals. It was a 27.1mm platinum case. A ladies specific minute repeater wouldn’t be released until almost 100 years later in 2011 with the reference 7000R.

5. Tradition & Innovation: Patek Philippe Advanced Research Department

Zoom InPatek Philippe Advanced Research Minute Repeater 5750PAdvanced Research Minute Repeater 5750P via Patek.com

Launched in 2002, Patek Philippe invested in a new department focused explicitly on developing avant-garde technologies and novel materials. The ethos of the manufacturer is ‘Tradition & Innovation’ and this new department fit perfectly.

In 2005 this department introduced a mono-crystalline silicon escape wheel. The silicon was extremely hard, corrosion-resistant, anti-magnetic and lightweight and would eliminate the need for lubrication. It is worth noting that Ulysse Nardin had previously started using silicon in 2001 with the launch of the Freak.

This new development of materials would then lead Patek Philippe into launching other silicon parts and helped fuel the use of the material across brands. The process used for the Spiromax balance spring included Silinvar, a vacuum oxidation process patented from a partnership with the Swatch Group and Rolex. Since then Patek Philippe and other brands have continued to release silicon parts.

6. Bonus: Under One Million Watches Produced Since 1839

Patek Philippe is a highly sought-after brand that has scarcity of models and an air of exclusivity. It is estimated that since 1839 fewer than one-million watches have been produced. Patek Philippe says that it takes nine months to make its most basic watches, while more complicated models can take more than two years to complete. Everything is also finished by hand and the artisans employed by Patek Philippe are highly skilled and trained. In 2018, there were 62,000 watches produced.

Patek Philippe also has a searchable archive where there is a detailed extract of every watch made since 1839.

Where to Buy Patek Philippe: New vs. Pre-Owned

Zoom InPatek Philippe Ownership

Patek Philippe watches are made exclusively in Switzerland, in Geneva. This origin reinforces their reputation for excellence in Swiss watchmaking. Over the long history into modern-day, Patek Philippe watches have been important for many collectors. While royalty and celebrities own their watches, many collectors across different industries own a Patek Philippe. For new or young collectors, a Patek Philippe may be a grail watch or a celebratory purchase. While 62,000 watches sounds like a large number, this is across the globe and just a fraction of production that brands like Rolex or Omega release. This is also split across all the 9 model families and over 160 different models. Buying a Patek Philippe through an authorized retailer brand new may take a while due to demand.  For those readers in the Philadelphia area, The 1916 Company is Philadelphia’s Authorized Patek Philippe Retailer.

On the pre-owned market, watches are much more readily available. Classic time-only models are also available at a more affordable price point, like this Calatrava 3919J or a Calatrava 5119G. Browse the entire The 1916 Company collection to discover the perfect Patek Philippe for you.

Patek Philippe Frequently Asked Questions

  • Where is Patek Philippe made?
    Patek Philippe watches are made in Geneva, Switzerland, where the brand has been headquartered since its founding in 1839.

  • Who owns Patek Philippe?
    The Stern family has privately owned Patek Philippe since 1932.

  • Why are Patek Philippe watches so expensive?
    Every Patek Philippe watch is hand-finished in-house and may take 9 months to 2 years to complete, with an emphasis on tradition, innovation, and scarcity.

  • How long does it take to make a Patek Philippe watch?

    The most basic Patek Philippe models can take 9 months to complete, while complicated models like perpetual calendars or minute repeaters can take up to 2 years or more.

  • Does Patek Philippe still make quartz watches?

    Yes. While known for mechanical movements, Patek Philippe continues to produce quartz models, especially in its ladies’ collections like the Twenty~4 and Gondolo.

  • What is the most complicated Patek Philippe watch?

    The Calibre 89, released in 1989, is Patek Philippe’s most complicated watch with 33 complications and 1,728 components.

  • What is Patek Philippe known for?

    Patek Philippe is renowned for its technical innovations, luxury craftsmanship, limited production, and prestigious history. It has produced some of the world’s most complicated and collectible watches.

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