Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM 198 Platinum: “Grail” Spelled P-A-M

Panerai watches tend to be styling statements that are all about look, size, and attitude. Add a platinum case, exclusivity, a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement, red gold hands, and a hidden power reserve gauge to the mix, and you have a Panerai that does it all! This 1-of-50 Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM 198 Platinum is a 45mm unicorn that many Paneristi consider to be a modern-day PAM grail watch.

Few grail watches feel as special on the wrist as they do in the mind’s eye, but the Panerai Radiomir PAM 198 exceeds expectations. At any given time, only 50 fortunate collectors will know the sensation of strapping a solid block of 950-purity Panerai platinum to their wrists. And make no mistake; that feeling alone is worth the price of admission.

Even better, the Panerai Radiomir PAM 198 gives fans of the classic steel Panerai look a discreet precious metal option that reads as masculine “steel” silver. Diamond-clad fashionistas might want to sit this one out…

This Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM00198 features a caliber XIV eight-day movement based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 877. More than a straight swap, Panerai finishes the case to its own standards and moves the power reserve gauge to the display case back where it will not mar the classically simple Panerai visage. In doing so, Panerai preserves the classic Radiomir dial while keeping the practicality of the power reserve indicator in play for occasional reference.

However, the dial of this special Radiomir does receive several subtle refinements. The historic Panerai “sandwich” treatment is present and beautifully rendered. This construction technique, which dates to the first Panerai combat divers of the 1930s, involves the placement of an upper “stencil” dial atop a lower dial consisting entirely of luminescent material; the result is a brilliant shine with dramatic 3-D lighting effects.

Three gorgeous hands crafted of red gold glow from the chocolate/tobacco dial center and afford the greater composition a distinctly upscale luster befitting a premium product.

While most Panerai watches feature a calf leather or rubber strap, Panerai here employs a unique alligator leather unit with rich black finish and matching stitching. The black-white-black sequence of the strap, platinum case, and dial endow the Panerai PAM 190 with tremendous aesthetic charisma. A white gold pin buckle in wire-style echoes the classic arc of the “solder-style” vintage lugs (themselves removable for easy DIY strap-swapping).

See this 45mm Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM 198 Platinum with Jaeger-LeCoultre movement in high-resolution images on watchuwant.com.