LVMH Watch Week: The Gérald Genta ‘Geneva’ Time-Only: A New Watch And A New Collection

Gérald Genta during his lifetime, managed to arouse controversy on a couple of counts, including his introduction of Disney character watches to the Montres et Bijoux show in 1984 (he left the show after refusing a demand from the organizers that he remove the watches from his booth) and his taste in his own designs, for sometimes florid maximalism and almost Baroque ornamentation. It is however also true that Génta had an appreciation for classical forms, perhaps inculcated in him in his early training as a jeweler. The revived Gérald Genta company at La Fabrique du Temps, has heretofore specialized in exotica like its Oursin watches, or in one case, an exercise in classical restraint in the Gérald Genta Minute Repeater. Gérald Genta has just announced two new watches, which use the same case and basic dial layout as the Minute Repeater. These two watches are the “Geneva” time-only watches, and the minute repeater and and two new watches will be part of the Geneva Collection under the Gérald Genta brand.

The time only watches are 38mm x 8.15mm – the repeater is only very slightly larger, at 40mm x 9.6mm, largely thanks to the case engineering, which was designed to optimize the volume and tone of the repeater. 38mm seems a good choice for diameter – I think anyone who’s attracted to this watch is going to partly find it interesting because it’s big enough for some real visual impact, but not so large as to depart from traditional dress watch dimensions (and this is certainly a watch I would happily characterize as a dress watch).

At launch, there are two versions of the watch. Above is the white gold model, which has a grained brass dial and a graphite color scheme; the watch is in fact, the Grafite. The second version is in rose gold, with a grained brass dial, but with a brown dial; it’s the Marrone (brown) model.

Aside from the slimmer and smaller case dimensions, the Time Only Geneva watches have redesigned lugs as well, which are a bit shorter and wider than those on the minute repeater. The difference is fairly slight but it’s visible if you compare the two watches visually.

The case henceforward is going to be known as a Geneva style case, and the new Time Only models also use the same basic dial design as the repeater. The minute track has a perfectly round inner circle but the outer circle is actually a rounded square that matches the cushion shaped case proper, and provides a subtle but definite and deliberate visual connection between the dial and the case.

Interestingly enough, the movement used is from Zenith – it’s the caliber GG-005P, which is based on the Zenith Elite caliber automatic, with a fifty hour power reserve. The movement has a custom gold rotor, and the GG in the caliber number is a clue to where you might have seen this version of the Elite caliber before – it’s the same automatic movement Genta is using in the Oursin. No caseback pictures are available yet, but we’ll add them when we can; it seems safe to assume that the watch has a display back, given the custom rotor.

The price point is an interesting one as well – both watches are CHF 25,ooo, which makes the Geneva Time Only watches competitive with quite a number of other automatic luxury dress watches in precious metals – exactly how many probably depends on things like how much in-house movements mean to you, and the prestige associated with certain names. The Geneva Time Only are in fact, roughly competitive with Louis Vuitton’s Escale time only watches when it comes to announced prices, with the Escale at a very slight premium over the Geneva Time Only – thanks possibly to the use of a La Fabrique du Temps designed caliber (Cercle des Horlogers base) in the Escale. However, the two watches are only marginally competing for the same customer – the Escale is perhaps a stronger draw for someone immersed in Louis Vuitton culture and history; the Geneva Time Only is (especially with those barrel lugs) for someone who specifically wants the slightly retro-dandy vibe. They’re a strategically smart introduction, sure, and they make Gérald Genta a brand which will now be seen more often – hopefully as often and as much as it is admired – but they’re also charming, instantly appealing watches in their own right.

The Gérald Genta Geneva Time Only: cases, white or rose gold, with Grafite or Marrone dials respectively; 38mm x 8.15mm. Sapphire crystal. Movement, GG-005P, Zenith Elite base with redesigned oscillating weight; running at 4Hz in 27 jewels, with a 50 hour power reserve. Both watches, CHF 25,000.

The 1916 Company is proud to be an authorized retailer for Gérald Genta watches. For current pricing and availability, please contact us.