LVMH Watch Week: Hublot Introduces The Big Bang Original ‘Unico’
The Big Bang Original Chronograph gets an update with the brand’s in-house Unico caliber.
The Big Bang has been with us now since 2005, and of course last year at LVMH Watch Week, the company introduced a 20th Anniversary Collection, which combined some of the original Big Bang design cues with the Unico chronograph caliber – that’s Hublot’s in-house flyback chronograph movement, which was introduced in 2010 and which supplemented the Valjoux/ETA 7750 caliber, designated HUB4100, in 2010. The 20th Anniversary Collection were five limited editions in signature Hublot materials, including King Gold, with production limited to anywhere from 100 to 500 pieces depending on the material. The classic Big Bang design cues were already present in Hublot’s collections – the Original collection, as was true for the 2005 Big Bang launch models, have three registers and use the HUB 4100 caliber. This year, for LVMH Watch Week, Hublot has announced four new Original models, but this time updated for the first time with the Unico caliber; the Big Bang Original Unico models will be available in Black Magic ceramic, King Gold, titanium, and titanium ceramic.
As with the Anniversary collection, the single biggest change from the first Big Bang is to the layout of the chronograph sub-registers.
The first Unico movement in 2010 was designated HUB1241, and it had its column wheel and vertical clutch on the dial side of the movement. The HUB1241 runs at 28,800 vph, in 38 jewels, with a 72 hour power reserve and has only one subdial – at 3:00, for the sixty minute chronograph counter. It was replaced in 2018 by the second generation Unico movement, HUB1280.
The Unico caliber 1280 is similar to its predecessor in many respects, including the flyback chronograph functionality, and the presence of the clutch and column wheel on the dial side of the movement. However, the HUB1280 also includes a running seconds display in a subdial at 6:00, and it’s smaller than HUB1241 – from 8.05mm to 6.75mm; that’s a 1.3mm difference.
Since then, the Unico 2 has been rolled out across a number of different models and collections, and with its addition to the Original collection, Hublot collectors now have the opportunity to have classic Big Bang design cues with a contemporary, in-house movement. One other additional update – while the 7750-based HUB4100 models follow the original 2005 Big Bang use of screws for attaching the straps, the new Unico Original models all use Hublot’s quick change, “One Click” strap changing system.
For all that the Big Bang has been a polarizing collection right from the beginning, it is hard to imagine the last twenty years of watch history without it. Initially excoriated by some as derivative of the design of the Royal Oak, the Big Bang has for two decades proven that it can succeed on the merits of its own design (and now, its history too). While the Classic Fusion watches have had something of a comeback in the last few years, the Big Bang is another side of the brand – despite the increase in sophistication of its watchmaking, and the sometimes luxurious materials, it’s still the same savvy combination of street-style vibe and performative assertiveness that has kept its appeal fresh for twenty years.
The Big Bang Original Unico Collection: cases, 43mm x 14.20, sapphire crystals front and back; water resistance, 100M/10ATM. Offered in Black Magic ceramic, Titanium, Titanium Ceramic, and King Gold (a tarnish resistant red gold alloy with platinum added). Movement, HUB1280, UNICO/Hublot manufacture, automatic flyback chronograph with silicon lever, running in 43 jewels at 28,800 vph; 72 hour power reserve. Oscillating weights, anthracite ruthenium plated. Prices: Titanium, $19,400; Black Magic, $21,700; Titanium Ceramic, $20,600; King Gold, $37,800. Non-limited production.
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