GMT vs. Dual Time Watches: The Battle of the Time Zones
Alongside chronographs and timing bezels, watches capable of displaying more than one timezone at once are some of the most practical on the market. Whether you’re living and working bi-coastal, or a good friend is in the middle of a little European tour, a dual time or GMT watch will save you the hassle of digging out your phone and checking the world time tab of your clock to make sure you’re not sending a text or email in the middle of the night. While both of these watch types have effectively the same function, they are not created equal. How, you might ask? Well, let’s get to it—learn more in a lesson in differences between dual time and GMT watches.
In this article, we’ll discuss the following topics:
> What is a dual time watch?
> What are some examples of dual time watches?
> What GMT watches?
> What are some examples of GMT watches?
Key Takeaways
> Whether you’re a pilot or world traveler, being able to tell the time in multiple different timezones is extremely practical.
> Dual time watches display two different times at the same time. You’ll typically see a sundial on its dial to indicate the second time on a 12-hour scale.
> Popular luxury brands that design compelling dual time watches include Patek Philippe, Faberge, and Ulysse Nardin.
> GMT watches rely on a 24-hour scale for time indication, and the most common examples display a second time zone using a central hand and a 24h track.
> Fascinating examples of GMT watches include the Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” and the Bremont ALT1-Z Zulu.
What Are Dual Time Watches?
These watches are basically pretty self explanatory—they display two different times, at the same time. Most commonly you’ll see a subdial somewhere on its dial indicating the second time (sometimes hours and minutes, and other times strictly hours) on a 12-hour scale.
Most often these will be paired with some sort of subtle day/night indication as well, allowing you to tell the time of day the the second time zone you’re presently keeping tabs on. Occasionally (and I love coming across these) manufacturers will opt for a digital display of the second time zone. Though rare, this version of dual time watch is even more efficient than its siblings, so long as the display window is crafted of a reasonable size. Interested in opting for one of these intriguing watches? Here’s a list narrowing down a few of our favorites.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A
Though using a central hand for its second time zone indication, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph is considered a dual time. Its central hand runs on a 12-hour scale with day/night indicators for both its local and home times. Adding to its immense practicality, the Patek Philippe Travel Time has a pair of pushers on the left side of its case to adjust the local time forwards and backwards so those who travel frequently do not have to fuss with a multi-position crown in order to adjust time on the fly. Add to this a date subdial and a 60-minute chronograph, and you’re left with one of the most practical luxury watches on the market right now in a relatively compact case (40.5mm in diameter, and 12.53mm thick).
Faberge Visionnaire DTZ
Easily the most unique entrant in the category, and one we immediately fell in love with when it launched in 2016, the Faberge Visionnaire DTZ takes a unique and functional approach to the dual time complication. A 24h digital display of local time is located at the center of its dial, adjustable via a quickset pusher at 10 o’clock. The innovative caliber, whose self-winding rotor can be seen through the translucent sapphire track for the hour indices, won the GPHG award in 2016 in the “Travel Time” Category. At just north of $40k, the white gold gem comes at a steep premium, however for one of the most innovative dual time watches of its kind, the math on the DTZ isn’t that hard to justify.
Ulysse Nardin Dual Time Ref. 223-88
For those who are looking for something a bit more elegant and a little less sporty, the Ulysse Nardin Dual Time ref. 223-88 is a striking mix of practical dual time functionality and elevated style. This piece displays the second time zone in a small window at the 9 o’clock on a white dial, and it features a date window at the 2 o’clock.
Zenith Port Royal Dual Time
The sleek Zenith ref. 01/02.0451.682 is simply stunning. It’s a stainless steel watch that displays the second time zone on its dial with a GMT hand, and it also features a date window at 3 o’clock, and a subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock with a small second hand. Because it has a 24-hour display, it doesn’t distinguish whether the time is day or night, and as far as style goes, this one is great for collector who prefer a sporty beach to tuxe look.
What Are GMT Watches?
These watches rely on a 24h scale for time indication. The most common examples will display a second time zone via a central hand and a 24h track either running along the dial, the rehaut, or the bezel, which can either be fixed or rotatable. Those GMT watches with a moving bezel add an extra layer of practicality so long as you’re okay with a little math.
With the GMT hand set to a specified time/timezone, wearers can advance or retard the bezel in either direction, allowing them to determine the time in a 3rd zone, so long as they’re aware of how far ahead or behind the new timezone is. Confused? Then maybe opt for a Dual Time. Sold on the practicality? Well you’re in luck, as there are plenty of interesting GMT watches out there this year—especially after Baselworld. Check Out a few of our favorite GMT models.
Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi”
With all the buzz surrounding the new Rolex GMT-Master II launching in steel with a Pepsi bezel on a jubilee bracelet, it simply couldn’t be ignored when discussing this topic. This newest variant is an icon in the category, featuring an independent red GMT hand and ceramic bezel. Previously the only ceramic Pepsi bezel model available was cased in white gold, whereas this new variant opens up the doors to a much broader market of enthusiasts and collectors less interested in watches made of precious metals.
The biggest news with this release at a technical level was the launch of a new caliber—the 3285—featuring Rolex’s ultra-efficient Chronergy escapement and a reworked mainspring and barrel, which when combined lead to an impressive increase to its power reserve up to 70 hours, compared to the previous caliber 3186’s 48 hours.
Bremont ALT1-Z Zulu
Speaking of practicality, the Bremont ALT1-Z Zulu’s stark and task-focused design is another killer example of a practical GMT tool watch. The Zulu uses an internal rotating bezel for its 24h scale, allowing for the display of a 3rd time zone as we elaborated on above. Measuring 43mm across in Bremont’s beloved Trip-Tick case, the piece is highly legible in both its pilot-style black dial with white indices as it is in its more retro variant using faux-patina colored indices and hands.
IWC Pilot Automatic GMT
Designed with durability and longevity in mind, the IWC Pilot Automatic GMT is water-resistant up to 60m, features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and has a 68-hour power reserve. For those who love the look as much as they love the function, its stainless steel case and black leather strap are both stylish and practical, and it even includes chronograph capabilities.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Automatic GMT Moonphase
If you love the iconic Nautilus, you’ll love it with all of the GMT bells and whistles. This model’s striking black elements and glimmering silver accents blend to create a timepiece that’s both practical and fun. It boasts luminous hands and markers, an automatic movement, 45-hour power reserve, and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Plus, its skeleton caseback and 120m water-resistant are added bonuses.
The Final Showdown
Both are practical and both serve their purpose, but what’s our final recommendation based on your lifestyle? Here’s a quick breakdown of the GMT vs. dual time for an overview:
GMT Watches
- Relies on a 24h scale for time indication
- Displays a second time zone via a central hand, and a 24h track either running along the dial, rehaut, or bezel
- Wearer can advance or retard the bezel in either direction to allow for a 3rd time zone time reading
Dual Time Watches
- Displays two time zones simultaneously
- Flaunts a subdial that indicates the second time on a 12-hour scale
- Often features a subtle day/night indication
If you’re a frequent traveler and timekeeping connoisseur, a GMT’s robust capabilities may suite you well. However, if you travel for business or pleasure occasionally and only need a quick view at a second time zone, a dual time watch is likely preferable and a bit more user-friendly.