Breitling Introduces Two New Hand Wound Chronographs To Its Permanent Collection

The famous Breitling Twin Jet logo was first introduced in 1957, and appeared on the Navitimer in the mid-1960s, distinguishing civilian market Navitimers from those sold to members of the Aircraft Owners and Pilot’s Association. The logo fell into disuse during the late 1970s, but was revived earlier this year for the Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis. That watch uses the hand-wound caliber B09, a manual winding version of the Breitling B01 caliber, which was launched by Breitling in the Premier Heritage Collection, back in 2021. The Navitimer Miles Davis was the first use by Breitling of the Twin Jet logo, with its aura of the golden age of jet travel, since the late 1970s, except for one instance of its use in 2002, for the Navitimer 50th Anniversary. The Navitimer Miles Davis was a limited edition, but with the launch of the Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41, and the Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute, the Twin Jet logo is once again part of Breitling’s core collections.

While the caliber B09 has been in use at Breitling since 2021, this is the first time that it’s been used for a non-limited or non-commemorative series of watches (the Premiere Heritage Collection watches, for instance, are based on important historical designs, and are meant as homages to Léon, Gaston, and Willy Breitling). The new B09 Chronograph 41 combines this movement with a panda dial and of course, the classic Breitling Navitimer slide rule bezel, which can be used for both general and aviation specific calculations (if you need a refresher, and I always do despite having taught myself how to use the bezel at least five times over the years, check out our story, “The Aspiring Pilot’s Guide To Using The Navitimer Slide Rule Bezel“). The new reference has a reverse panda dial (the first Navitimer to have one was the reference 806, launched in the early 1960s) and the black dial reference is the first reverse panda, hand-wound Navitimer in the permanent collection since the early 1970s, I believe.

The Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 is a COSC certified chronometer, with sapphire crystals front and back, and is available in either a black reverse panda, or blue reverse panda version, with either a stainless steel seven row bracelet, or a matching calfskin strap. US pricing is $7900 on a strap, or $8400 on a bracelet.

The second new core collection reference is the Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute.

The first Cosmonaute was created as a result of a request from the American astronaut Scott Carpenter, who, in 1961, was stationed at a NASA tracking station in Australia, where he served as CapCom (Capsule Communicator, the official on the ground responsible for ground to spacecraft direct communication) and who became familiar with the Navitimer during flight operations with the Royal Australian Air Force. He asked Breitling for a version of the Navitimer to be used in his upcoming Mercury Program mission – Mercury-Atlas 7, during which he flew the Aurora-7 spacecraft, for three full Earth orbits. Carpenter asked for several modifications but the most important was the inclusion of a 24 hour dial, and he got the watch just five days before his flight. The Cosmonaute became available commercially in late 1962, shortly after the successful completion of Mercury-Atlast 7, during which Carpenter, thanks to a series of technical mishaps, landed 250 miles from the intended landing zone, and during recovery operations, his watch was flooded with water. The watch was unrecoverably damaged, but in 2022, Breitling brought it out of their archives for the launch of the Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute limited edition.

The movement for the Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute, the caliber B02, is essentially the caliber B09, but with a 24 hour dial and hour hand. Other than the addition of a (unobtrusive) date window at 6:00, the movement specs are identical to those of the caliber B09: COSC chronometer certification, a 70 hour power reserve, and a column wheel vertical clutch design.

The new Cosmonaute, like the Navitimer B09, is available on either a strap, or a seven link bracelet.

The addition of two new hand wound Navitimers to the core collection is an obvious win for Breitling, and the use of the Twin Jet logo is a welcome development for fans of Breitling’s history. Hand-wound chronographs are a relative rarity, especially at the prices set for these new Navitimers, and you not only get a modern, proven in-house chronograph design, but also, two new models that show thoughtful and deep connections to Breitling’s history as an aviation supplier. At 41mm x 13mm, they’re also versatile, easy-wearing designs. I think both new Navitimers should do well, but for someone like me, who grew up during the early days of the American space program, there is something awfully compelling about the Cosmonaute – a watch that’s a connection to the very beginnings of crewed exploration of outer space, and a time when it seemed like the sky was the limit.

The Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41: Case, stainless steel, 41mm x 13mm, 47.09mm lug to lug; 30 meters water resistance; bidirectional circular slide rule bezel. Movement, Breitling caliber B09, hand wound, column wheel, vertical clutch chronograph running at 28,800 vph, with 70 hour power reserve. Available with either a black or blue reverse panda dial, and on a matching leather strap or seven row stainless steel bracelet. Price, $7,900 on a strap, or $8400 on a bracelet. 

The Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute: Case, stainless steel, 41mm x 13mm, 47.09mm lug to lug; 30 meters water resistance; bidirectional circular slide rule bezel. Movement, Breitling caliber B02, hand wound, column wheel, vertical clutch chronograph running at 28,800 vph, with 70 hour power reserve; 24 hour dial and hour hand, with date. Available with either a black or blue reverse panda dial, and on a matching leather strap or seven row stainless steel bracelet. Price, $10,600 on a strap, or $11,000 on a bracelet. 

The 1916 Company is proud to be an authorized retailer for Breitling watches. Please contact us for pricing and availability.