Stealth Wealth: The Wonderful World of Platinum Watches

As cultural norms and economies shift, wearing ostentatious timepieces in varying warm hues of gold or clad in diamonds can and will fall out of favor. This can be on account of a number of factors, depending on the person or situation at hand. At times, especially when economies are soft, people often become more reluctant to display wealth knowing that many around them are struggling. In other cases, it’s a matter of comfort and security, leading watch wearers to be a bit more discretionary with their watch choices. Regardless of the specific context or logic path, platinum watches provide a uniquely appealing solution for those with the means to acquire. Buying a platinum timepiece gives its owner a distinct level of exclusivity, without breaking the security barrier that comes with yellow, rose, or other hues of gold (other than white). These watches will always be rarer than their counterparts in other metals, they often feature more complications, and they’ll also retain a greater baseline of value purely upon the value of the metal alone. This limited nature does not mean that we’re shy on options, so today we’re going to have a look at a handful of these rare and interesting pieces.

Rolex Day-Date 118206

The Rolex Day-Date President in platinum is the quintessential example of stealth wealth in the Rolex catalog. Much like the platinum Rolex Daytona in the current collection, it is fitted with an ice blue sunburst dial that acts as a bit of a tell to those in the know, but otherwise, you’re looking at a simple and understated 36mm dress watch that could just about blend into the background. Though it looks more boardroom than sport/casual, the Day-Date’s combination of a screw-down crown and 100m water resistance means it will easily survive the perils of day-to-day wear. This reference had a fairly lengthy production run that lasted through the ‘00s and ‘10s before being replaced by a 40mm platinum reference in 2019. This reference is, of course, fitted with the classic Rolex President bracelet, complete with its hidden crown clasp.

Patek Philippe 5370P-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph

In a similar vein to the Day-Date, the Patek Philippe 5370P is the kind of watch that will 100% be mistaken for steel by the vast majority of onlookers who aren’t able to put hands on the watch directly. Launched in 2015, this piece is viewed by many as the most fantastic piece of watchmaking to come out of Patek Philippe in recent history. Its design is loosely based on the split-seconds chronograph reference 1436 from quite a few years back, and this two pusher and crown-pusher combination was something that went dormant in 1971 until the 5370P came to market. A black enamel dial, Breguet-style Arabic numerals, and an exquisitely detailed case are all perfectly executed to a degree that belies its stealthy vibe when viewed up close. At 41mm across and 13.54mm thick, it’s a comfortable size for just about all wrists, and though specific production numbers are unknown, you can rest assured that you will not see many of these beasts out in the wild.

IWC Grande Complication Minute Repeater Perpetual 3770-03

Of our many picks in the heap, it’s pretty hard to argue a better value than this IWC Grande Complication. The platinum-cased minute repeater perpetual calendar chronograph is a beast of a watch in terms of complications, yet packed into a palatable 42mm casing. The self-winding piece was launched all the way back in 1990 after seven years of development. The IWC caliber 79091 that powers it is based on the standard Valjoux 7750 chronograph, mated to the Kurt Klaus perpetual calendar module first unveiled in the DaVinci five years prior. The complex caliber uses 75 jewels and 568 parts. The model was produced in annual batches of 50 pieces in each metal from 1990 into the early 2000s, with this piece from the 1995 production run.

Vacheron Constantin Medicus Chronograph

At only 37mm across, the Vacheron Constantin Medicus is the second most compact and understated piece of the pack in terms of size, but its skeletonized dial design is hands-down the least stealthy of them all. What little dial remains present is entirely practical, as it includes a pulsometer scale, minute track, and subdials for both running seconds and chronograph minutes. Below the dial layer, we are treated to extensive hand-engraving seen throughout the bridges of its manually-wound caliber, and in flipping the piece over to its sapphire display caseback, this theme continues with the same level of ornate detail. The Medicus Skeleton appeared in a production run of only 30 pieces back in 2004, making it one of the rarest offerings on this list as well.

FP Journe Octa Lune Nacre

With Journe’s watches being as rare as they are, it’s not hard to be stealthy when wearing one regardless of model. That said, the Octa Lune Nacre—French for mother-of-pearl—is one of the less frequently seen and most visually appealing references of Journe’s Octa moonphase complication. An outer perimeter of mother-of-pearl provides a beautiful sheen that has a similar vibe to the ice blue dial from Rolex we mentioned earlier. The 40mm piece displays a moonphase indication, big date, and power reserve alongside hours, minutes, and seconds. Flip the piece over, and you’ll notice that there’s still a healthy dose of gold in the mix, as this is the material of choice for its self-winding caliber.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down

Last, and certainly not least, the Lange Datograph enters the ring as our last peak-level stealthy watch for any occasion. The Datograph is a stunner of a watch in any configuration, but pair a reverse panda dial with a 39mm platinum case and we’re simply smitten. Like most Lange watches, you’ll spend as much time drooling over its backside as you will its dial, as the innovative and beautifully hand-wound caliber L951.1 is on full display through its sapphire caseback. A hand-engraved balance cock, beveled German silver bridges, and gold chatons for its jewels all play a small role in setting the caliber apart from the pack. On the dial side, if you know Lange, you can spot it a mile away, but regardless of the piece in question, loud and ostentatious isn’t really a part of their lexicon.