Watches & Wonders 2026: Patek’s 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection Is The Nautilus Served Straight Up

Patek is celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus this year, and, true to its word, it has not chosen to do so by bringing back a steel version of the Nautilus in any form in the anniversary editions. There may be a certain irony in introducing only precious metal versions of what was once billed as the most expensive steel watch in the world, but the new Anniversary models are meant to celebrate the design rather than reproduce the design from 1976. The new models do, however, adhere to the fundamentals of the original design, with deep blue, laterally barred dials, the two part monobloc case construction of the original models, which Patek began to use again with the ref. 5811, in 2022. This construction consists of a one-piece case, with the bezel fitted into the two lateral case hinges and held in place with four compression screws.

The new models are:

• The references 5810/1G-001 and 5810G-001,  in white gold, 41mm x 45.10mm x 6.90mm
• The reference 5610/1P-001, in platinum, 38mm x 6.90mm
• The Nautilus desk watch, reference 958G-001, in white gold, 50.65mm x 13.5mm thick

All models are powered by the extra thin, microrotor caliber 240, which has been with us since 1977 and which is one Patek’s great classic calibers, in service for almost fifty years at this point – it will in fact be the 50th anniversary of the cal. 240 next year and one feels it deserves an anniversary celebration of its own.

The References 5810/1G-001 And 5810G-001

These watches are both 41mm x 45.10mm, and just 6.90mm thick. They are time-only models with no date or center seconds hands, with the 5810G-001 offered on a composite textile strap in a limited edition of 1,000 watches.

The slimness of the case makes for a very elegant feel on the wrist, with the fabric strap lending itself to versatile daily wear.

The ref. 5810/1G-001 is being offered on a matching white gold bracelet, and will be produced as a limited edition of 2000 pieces.

As you can see, the 50th Anniversary models are celebrating largely through some distinctive design and engineering cues, including the two piece case construction and the absence of a center seconds hand (which was also absent in the original ref. 3700 from 1976, although that model did have a date guichet). The 50th Anniversary engraving on the micro-rotor is simple and straightforward, which I think is appropriate; these are not floridly ornate watches, and the cal. 240 is an example of refined, discreet Swiss fine watchmaking; anything too decorative would have felt out of place.

The Reference 5610/1P-001

This happened to be my personal favorite from the 50th Anniversary collection, with the possible exception of the desk clock.

The case is 38mm x 42.11mm (all lateral dimensions include the crown) and though it’s smaller by the numbers than the other two models it has a most pleasing heft to it, thanks to all that platinum, which gives it a great deal of authority, while the smaller size keeps it from feeling overbearing or excessively ostentations. Days after seeing it the sensation of wearing it still stays with me; there were many fascinating watches at the show but this one, as the saying goes, got right in amongst me.

The Reference 958G-001 Desk Clock

I found this most intriguing as well as being, obviously, the most unexpected of the four 50th Anniversary pieces. The idea of a Nautilus desk clock is dramatically counterintuitive but for that reason, strangely appealing, given the fact that the whole identity of the Nautilus had to do with being a revolution in the design of a wristwatch. 

Inside is a wonderful surprise: the eight day caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J (caliber 31-505 when it’s among friends). We last saw this new movement when it was introduced in the 8-Day ref. 5328G-001, and in addition to the eight day running time, we have an instantaneous jumping date and day display, and power reserve.

The bridge configuration is an absolutely classic piece of work and reminiscent of Patek’s famous 17”’ pocket watch movement, with an S-shaped center bridge and with the pivots for the tandem mainspring barrels visible in their very large, beautiful jewels in the barrel and crown wheel bridge. Back and front, the quality of the movement is exceptional; as an owner you will never see them but the two parallel, elegantly curved jumper springs for the date and day displays are particularly attractive.

Patek Phillipe is billing this as a desk clock but to be honest, it wouldn’t make a bad pocket watch either – and there would be nothing stopping you from wearing it as one; that bow is just begging for a matching chain. This is, like the other Anniversary models, a limited edition of 100 pieces; you might think you couldn’t show it off to fellow collectors at a get-together but as I said, just slip it into a pocket.

All three 50th anniversary wristwatches, powered by the caliber 240, micro-rotor in 22k gold with unidirectional winding, 27.5mm x 2.53mm, with a 48 hour power reserve.

The desk clock movement, caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J, 32mm x 5.05mm; instantaneous day and date with small seconds.

Prices at launch: CHF 90,000 (5610/1P-001), CHF 60,000 (5810G-001), CHF 75,000 (5810/1g-001). CHF 205,000 (958G-001).

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