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The Ultimate GADA Watches: Versatility Without Compromise

Exploring three exceptional timepieces that redefine the Go Anywhere, Do Anything ethos.

Greg Gentile7 Min ReadDec 2 2024

The GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) watch is a staple topic of horological journalism. Writing about it feels like a rite of passage for anyone in this field—a task as expected as a Rotten Tomatoes review for the latest blockbuster. It’s tempting to approach the topic with a listicle of great everyday watches or explore the notion of the one-watch collection. But the GADA watch deserves more than surface-level analysis.

In my recent musings about watch collecting—on building collections, learning from mistakes, and collecting with purpose—I’ve often returned to the idea of versatility. The GADA watch embodies this principle: it can hold its own in a formal meeting and endure a hike up a mountain. It can be the cornerstone of a collection or the only watch you’ll ever need. This duality intrigues me. The concept is simple, yet the execution varies immensely based on personal preferences, budgets, and lifestyles.

Take microbrands, for example. Names like Baltic, Furlan Marri, Studio Underd0g, Brew, Oak & Oscar, Halios, Farer, and Lorca are redefining what a great everyday watch can be. Each offers unique takes on the GADA ethos, creating watches that balance utility and great design. Some watches, like the VPC Type 37, were specifically designed with the GADA concept at their core. The name, derived from Venustas Per Constantiam (loosely translated as “beauty through restraint”), reflects this focus. Its tagline, “The tool watch that doesn’t look like a tool,” succinctly captures the essence of what makes a GADA watch so versatile and appealing. (More on this watch below).

Interestingly, the term “GADA” has transcended horological jargon to become a category of its own. Of course, GADA means different things to different people. Not everyone needs a watch that transitions seamlessly from the boardroom to the wilderness. For some, “anything” might mean running errands, while for others, it’s trekking through Patagonia. That said, the essence of a GADA watch lies in its adaptability—it’s the chameleon of your watch box.

For me, the Tudor Black Bay 58, Grand Seiko Heritage models, and the VPC Type 37 represent the pinnacle of this genre. Each of these watches captures the spirit of GADA. They all come with a minimum of 100m of water resistance, on a metal bracelet, with lume plots, no bigger than 40mm and design wise can fit any situation you throw at them. The question isn’t whether you need a GADA watch—it’s how your definition of “do anything” shapes your choice.

Tudor Black Bay 58

Zoom InTudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight in Sterling Silver is one of the many BB58 variants that can be a GADA watch.

The Tudor Black Bay 58 is a watch that has been reviewed ad nauseam since its release, and for good reason. I will spare you many of the details I am sure you already know. With its vintage-inspired design, COSC movement, and the incredible value proposition it provides, the BB58 has cemented itself as a modern classic. The Black Bay 58 comes in a variety of options, from traditional steel to gold and silver models, not to mention a GMT complication for world travelers. There truly is a GADA version of the BB58 for everyone.

Zoom InThe most recent BB58 with GMT function.

It is honestly hard to find a fault in this watch. Its dimensions at 39mm are ideal for a wide range of wrists, making it comfortable for daily wear. Its water resistance ensures it can handle everything from a pool party to a jump in the ocean. Add to that its impeccable finishing, accurate movement, and you have a watch that transitions effortlessly from casual to formal. The Black Bay 58 doesn’t just meet expectations for a GADA—it exceeds them.

Grand Seiko Heritage

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The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection, brings a touch of artistry to the GADA concept. While the many variations with textured dials add a hint of flair, the watch line’s focus remains on precision, durability, and versatility. The Heritage line is Grand Seiko’s attempt to perfect the GADA watch, and it shows in every detail, from the meticulous case polishing to the innovative movements.

Although I love the “Seasons” models, if I had to choose one from this collection it would have to be the “Birch” dial. The Series 9 SLGH005, also known as the “White Birch,” draws inspiration from the white birch forests near Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi studio. Its intricately textured dial offers a unique aesthetic not found in other watches. The watch features a 40mm stainless steel case with a Zaratsu-polished finish.

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At the heart of the watch is the caliber 9SA5, a high-beat movement operating at 36,000 vph, with an 80-hour power reserve. This movement features a dual impulse escapement and a free-sprung balance. Of all the watches I selected for this article, this is the only one that features an exhibition case back, offering a view of what I consider to be one of the finest movements in modern horology. (You can find an in-depth breakdown of this marvel by Jack here).

Grand Seiko’s engineering and design are as straightforward and purposeful as it gets, with every detail crafted with intention and precision. The dials, inspired by the beauty of nature, offer a distinctive aesthetic that stands out while maintaining the versatility expected of a true GADA watch.

VPC Type 37HW

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VPC is the brainchild of Thomas van Straaten, a Fratello Watches writer and vintage watch expert. According to a Hodinkee article, van Straaten’s concept arose from years of pondering what makes a truly “good watch.” His insights resonate because the GADA category speaks to the heart of why people wear watches: versatility, functionality, and a connection to their personal lives.

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Every aspect of the Type 37 feels intentional, from its clean design to its functional capabilities, making it a compelling option for anyone seeking the perfect everyday watch. Nothing was half-baked in this design.

Zoom InAlways need a lume shot.

The Type 37HW features a closed caseback, a fixed bezel, and a screw-down crown, contributing to its 120 meters of water resistance. The crystal is treated with anti-reflective coating. With a lug width of 20mm, the bracelet incorporates quick-release spring bars and tapers to 16mm at the clasp. Just throwing this out there — this taper is vastly underrated when it comes to wearability of watches. I wish more brands utilized this tapered design in their bracelets. Both the case and bracelet are enhanced with a specialized hard coating that achieves an impressive 1800 HV (Vickers hardness). Putting this in perspective, sapphire watch crystals usually range from 2000 to 2500 HV. Standard untreated stainless steel is around 150-200 HV, while hardened steel can range from 400-800 HV. At 1800 HV, this coating offers significantly more resistance to scratches and wear than regular steel.

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Powering the watch is the hand-wound Sellita SW216-1. If I had to nitpick, my only gripe might be its manual winding mechanism. However, one could argue this feature makes it an even better GADA watch by emphasizing intentionality and engagement with the piece—something that may appeal to some. The movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz and offers a 42-hour power reserve, along with COSC certification. It displays hours, minutes, and a small seconds subdial at six o’clock, focusing on functionality and ease of maintenance. That said, the lack of a date display could be seen as a downside for some, as it limits one of the practical aspects many look for in an everyday watch.

The GADA Watch: The Definition of Versatility

Versatility can be a double-edged sword when it comes to watches. Think about those new kitchen gadgets that claim to replace your chef’s knife, mixer, bowl, fork, and spoon—they rarely do everything well. Or take the jacket that’s supposedly perfect for summer, fall, and winter—it often ends up being mediocre in all seasons.

This is the classic “jack of all trades, master of none” dilemma. Many items that claim to be versatile ultimately fall short of their promises. But there are exceptions to every rule, and I believe these three watches break the mold. They are not just versatile—they master the art of adaptability without compromise. In the world of watches, these three are the rare examples that truly live up to the GADA ethos.