Rise of The Indies: Independent Watches

Listen to a conversation about the “big boys” of modern watchmaking, and you hear a lot of the same—conversations about specific historical references, case metals, or that time they discontinued a favorite dial color. Listen to a conversation about the world of independent watchmaking, and you get something fundamentally different. Yes, niche independent brands also make watches, and damned good ones at that, but when you start educating yourself about the category you realize there’s a lot more to it. Independent watchmaking is about the people, the personalities, the character, and the zealous nature in which these creative minds step beyond industry conventions to create things with their own mark and their own flair. You don’t like it? That’s fine. There’s only 5 of this or 20 of that being made in the first place. This is where creativity runs hot, and passion runs even hotter.

Grönefeld 1941 Principia

Third generation watchmakers from the Netherlands, the Grönefelds may have had watchmaking in their blood since birth, but it was their exceptional talents that took the brothers from working on complicated mechanisms at Renaud et Papi to starting to produce their own watches in 2008. No, brothers Tim and Bart Grönefeld have not been making watches since 1941, but rather the 1941 Principia—their entry-level offering—is a nod to the year of the birth of their father, whose own horological prowess had a significant impact on their respective love and appreciation of watchmaking. Though the Principia is their ‘simple’ automatic, meaning it doesn’t have a remontoire, dead-beat seconds, or a tourbillon, that doesn’t make it less worthy of appreciation. The movement engineering, design, and finishing is nothing shy of spectacular, as its casing, dial, and hands.

Greubel Forsey GF08 Différentiel D’Égalité Limited Edition

When we’re talking about the ‘big gun’ indies, Greubel Forsey is front and center. They’re one of the most awarded independent watchmakers in modern history. They spend more time and resource on breaking new ground in watchmaking technology than many of the major industry players combined, and quite frankly, they’re better at what they do than just about any of the competition. The Greubel Forsey GF08 Différentiel D’Égalité Limited Edition is a fantastic example of their fine craft, as it uses not only their own specialized remontoire system to help smooth out power delivery from the mainspring, but also a distinct differential system incorporating a dead-beat seconds indication that adds another layer of precision to the mix.

H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flying Hours

One of the lesser-known secrets of Moser is that the majority of their business (including adjacent businesses) isn’t just their own craft. Sister-company Preciflex actually supplies a large chunk of the hairsprings found in mechanical movements throughout the watch industry. That said, their own watches are sleek, finely finished gems that have their own little dab of whimsy mixed in with the use of more traditional craft. The Endeavour Flying Hours is a great example, as it packs a peculiar satellite time display layered over a more classic cosmic green Moser fume dial, packaged in a conventional/traditional 42mm white gold case. As much as many of us hate the term ‘disruptor,’ Moser fairly earns the title for their transparent approach to their business, and their fearlessness when it comes to challenging the watch industry.

Laurent Ferrier Galet Montre École Annual Calendar

One of the more interesting features of independent watches in general is the unique design DNA that develops from brand to brand. The successful ones stand out from the pack in some form or fashion, and immediately make themselves distinguishable from the masses. This couldn’t be truer of Laurent Ferrier, whose cases, dials, and hands always jump out as being distinctly his own. That said, the movement design and finishing found at Laurent Ferrier, whether we’re talking about the Montre École Annual Calendar or others, is equally stand-out. Looking at the Montre École specifically, one of the ‘little things’ in its movement design is the ability to roll the calendar forwards or backwards regardless of the current time—a feat that often proves problematic in more run-of-the-mill watchmaking.

F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance

Alongside Greubel Forsey, F.P. Journe is regarded as a pioneer in the craft. Back in 1999 when he first struck out on his own, the independent watchmaking scene didn’t exist the way it does now. Forums, social media, and blogs were nonexistent, and word of new watchmakers traveled much slower than it does today. Fast forward to 2020 and you’ve got a brand with a 20% investment stake from Chanel, producing less than 1,000 watches per year, and consistently remaining in demand from collectors around the globe. This 38mm stainless steel F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance is a prime example—a piece with a movement previously unheard of in a wristwatch, and one that’s near impossible to track down these days.

Ressence Type 2 E-Crown

Thought you’d seen it all? Enter Ressence. Fluid-filled watches, incredibly unique deconstructed time displays, highly detail-oriented design, and in the case of the E-Crown, a unique indie twist on the concept of a “smart” watch. Stacked on top of its mechanical movement is the driver known as the E-Crown. This driver system has the ability to set and adjust the time of the watch all on its own or be disconnected from satellite connection as its wearer sees fit. While the rest of the masses of the luxury watch world have been finding ways to have your phone notifications ping on your wrist, Ressence took a truly different approach to the intersection of watchmaking and technology. Who wore it best? Our money is on Ressence (my phone notifications can stay on my phone, thanks).