Ressence Type 9: Minimalism Meets Masterful Innovation

I must always remind myself that I don’t just write about watches—I write about art. Like all forms of art, these intricate machines we wear on our wrists originate from the mind of a creator. They begin as a spark of inspiration, are nurtured into existence, and eventually released into the world. It’s easy, when writing about watches, to get caught up in the technical details—the specs, the movements, the materials. But stepping back and viewing these timepieces as one would a painting in a gallery or a sculpture in a museum can reveal their true essence.

This perspective is especially important when considering Ressence, the small but visionary Belgian watchmaker. Their creations are not just watches but works of art that challenge conventional design. To fully appreciate Ressence, you must first see them as expressions of minimalist art, and only then as timepieces. They say the best meals are those done right with simple ingredients and I can wholeheartedly say this new release is the perfect meal in watch form.

Jack covered the release of the Type 3 and finished his story with a line that I feel plays right into their most recent drop of the Type 9. “There’s nothing quite like [Ressence] – they are part of a very small group of avant-garde independents who have managed the very difficult trick of a highly idiosyncratic design language that is also instantly recognizable (MING and MB&F are two other examples that come to mind) and Ressence is proof that there is a route from paradigm-shifting revolutionary to serenely refined classicism after all.”

The Watch

The first thing you’ll notice (or that I noticed) about the Type 9 is that it has lugs—a design choice that, in all honesty, feels essential. Without them, placing this simple yet refined layout on a completely circular case would leave your eyes searching for a focal point. This marks a shift from the recently released Type 8, which featured a similar dial layout but without lugs, giving it a distinct “disco volante” aesthetic.

The next striking feature is the absence of a crown. A staple in Ressence watches, but also very important in this watch. This choice further emphasizes the abundance of circular elements in the design, making the addition of lugs even more important for providing balance and structure.

In my opinion, Ressence’s decision to eliminate the traditional crown on its watches doesn’t get the recognition it deserves. While their ROCS (more on this in a moment) system and oil-filled dials often take center stage, the integration of the crown into the caseback is a masterstroke of industrial minimalist design. This approach makes perfect sense for a watch like this.

Aesthetically, it allows the flowing curves of the dial and case to remain uninterrupted. Functionally, it emphasizes the watch’s focus on ease of use, highlighting its minimal need for frequent adjustments. It’s a subtle yet impactful innovation that reinforces Ressence’s philosophy of blending form and function.

The case is crafted entirely from polished grade 5 titanium, measuring 39mm in diameter and 11mm thick. If you have been following along with any of my articles over the past year you will see a few consistent themes. One of which is watch size. So anytime I hear a company say they have made their “smallest watch ever”… my airplane ears perk up and I am ready.

The dial is offered in both Grey and Aqua options and the addition of the fixed bezel is a fantastic touch, adding some depth and structure to the lucid dial design. The hands and engravings on both the bezel and dial are filled with Super-Luminova, ensuring excellent nighttime legibility. The dial features a media-blasted metallic texture, while the disc surrounding the hour hand has a circularly brushed finish that mirrors the outer bezel.

And we can’t give this much attention to the design without hitting (on) the ROCS. The Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) used in this specific model is a caliber powered by a heavily modified ETA 2892 automatic movement. The name “ROCS” succinctly describes its essence: Ressence, as it is exclusively patented and developed by the brand; Orbital, reflecting the movement of the rotating discs that make up the dial; Convex, referencing the curved design of both the discs and the overall watch aesthetic; and System, emphasizing its mechanical complexity (I think).

ROCS transforms the traditional multi-layered approach to time display, where hands sit atop a fixed dial, into a seamless, animated mono-surface display.

The sub-dials and the main disc move continuously, akin to moons orbiting a planet. This perpetual motion makes the dial an ever-changing landscape. I appreciate what is different and innovative and although reading a Ressence watch may take a second or two, I love that they stick to the essence that makes them special.

Finally, the watch weighs in at 39 grams—one gram for every millimeter of its diameter. When I first read this, I wasn’t entirely sure how significant it was, as I don’t have weight comparisons at the ready like Tim Mosso might. So, I turned to Google for a few relatable comparisons for those of us who don’t keep track of metric weights in our daily lives.

To put it into perspective, 39 grams is roughly the weight of two AA batteries, which are around 23 grams each (depending on the brand—looking at you, Energizer). For my fellow millennials, it’s just slightly heavier than two CDs, which weigh about 15 grams each. So, the choice is clear: would you rather have a Ressence or strap Tupac’s Greatest Hits double CD to your wrist? And my personal favorite comparison: a medium-sized egg without its shell weighs about 40 grams. Why the shell is excluded in these comparisons, I can’t say, but if you’re into specifics, this excludes the famed double yolkers. Either way, the Type 9’s lightweight construction adds to its wearability, making it feel almost invisible on the wrist.

My Take

Ressence has carefully refined its designs since its inception, striking a delicate balance between maintaining continuity and introducing innovation—a challenging line to walk, as even industry giants like Apple can attest.

Ressence watches are truly in a league of their own, occupying a unique space in the modern horological landscape. The Type 9, marketed as their entry-level time-only watch, represents the brand’s thoughtful evolution. Following the release of the Type 8 Indigo with its stunning silk dial, Ressence is riding a wave of momentum, and the Type 9 continues to build on that success.

While the Type 9 may not fit the traditional “value proposition” associated with entry-level watches—priced at 12,500 CHF—it offers an abundance of innovation and horological craftsmanship in a sleek 39mm titanium package. Between the two dial options, Grey and Aqua, my choice is the Aqua. Its vibrant pop of color perfectly complements the lightweight titanium case, adding a sense of fun. But beyond its functionality and design, the Type 9 is something more: it’s wearable art, a testament to Ressence’s ability to push boundaries while remaining true to its minimalist roots.

The 1916 Company is proud to be a Ressence authorized retailer.

The Ressence Type 9 features hours and minutes powered by the patented ROCS 9. The self-winding movement offers a 36-hour power reserve, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and incorporates 31 jewels, 20 gears, and 4 ball bearings. Its grade 5 titanium dial, measuring 75mm in diameter, rotates on a jewel ball bearing with eccentric satellites inclined at 9.75° for the hour display, with engraved indications filled with blue Grade A Super-LumiNova. The polished grade 5 titanium case measures 39mm in diameter and 11mm in thickness, with a domed sapphire crystal featuring an anti-reflective coating on the inside. The watch is splash-resistant (1 ATM) and includes manual winding and time setting via the bi-directional rotating caseback. Weighing just 39 grams (strap included), it is paired with a soft calf leather strap (20/18mm) and secured by a titanium Ardillon buckle. The Type 9 Aqua is priced at CHF 12,500 (excluding taxes). For more details visit Ressencewatches.com