One Watch + Two Tones = Twice the Impact

Two-tone watches were said to be very 80’s; which is handy for them right now, as fashions tend to make a comeback after skipping a generation: suddenly, they’re all the rage again. What are today’s brands’ takes on this resurgence? Here’s our selection of sporty, chic, and edgy models for both men and women.

If watchmaking were to define itself, it might settle on “a world of subtleties.” Whilst the style codes of the wristwatch have been established for decades, watchmakers strive to stand out from the crowd with what they do on the margins, in terms of details, finishes, and tones.

Seen thus, two tones afford a lot more freedom than just one. You can play around with both tones’ locations, their shapes, use different materials, and so on, whilst making the most of the creative possibilities of each.

In most cases, ‘two-tone’ means gold and steel – or more broadly, gold and steel hues, which also encompass PVD, titanium, white gold, and even platinum. Or to put it another way, tones that tend to grey, and tones that tend to gold, with every conceivable shade of yellow, rose, and red gold along the way – or even beige for Chanel.

Entry-level models to avoid breaking the bank

With this infinite range of materials, finishes, and surface treatments, watchmakers express a whole palette of ‘two-tone’ shades, from the simplest and most affordable to the most prestigious and elaborate. There are many contenders in the former category. One pioneer in the field is Ebel. The Movado group’s brand has indulged its taste for the 80s with a decidedly vintage design and virtually systematic use of the two-tone finish, as evidenced in its Sport Classic collection. Prices range mostly from $2,000 to $4,000.

This is the most sought-after segment – and the most congested, with other giants such as Longines jostling for position too. The latter has its own two-tone offer, including both sports models (such as the HydroConquest) and more traditional pieces (like the Grande Classique). Baume & Mercier, another heavyweight brand, has always featured hallmark two-tone models, notably in its Classima collection. Another giant (in terms of output) in the field is Swiss fine watchmaker Tissot, with the two-tone Gentleman Powermatic 80 available at the unbeatable price of around $500, in the region of another brand that comes to mind less often: Victorinox (with its Alliance model).

The Independents’ Take

The independents have not been found wanting; there was simply no way they would leave this segment to the big players. Frederique Constant has just ramped up production of its Highlife collection (which includes a two-tone perpetual calendar) quite significantly. Maurice Lacroix’s quintessential Aïkon features gold and steel tones – not to mention a very daring blue dial. Still in the same price range, from the ‘house of the Eagle’, in the year marking the 200th anniversary of Napoleon’s death, Eberhard & Co has made the clever move of bringing out its Aiglon, available in various sizes, with a very striking mother-of-pearl dial. From there it’s only a small step through the world of mythology to curl a snake up next to an eagle – a step Bulgari has taken in style with its Steel & Rose Gold Serpenti Seduttori.

Any Color – and Material – You Like

What all these brands have in common is that they feature steel and rose gold… most often simply in the form of PVD coating, or plating. As might be expected, the premium brands have adopted the same approach to colour – but with real gold. The higher the price, the greater the authenticity. When it comes to these players, independent or otherwise, you’re talking in terms of ‘two-material’ rather than ‘two-tone’: the variation is very much technical, not simply a question of color.

Independent offerings such as Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak are just as much of a must as the Patek Philippe Nautilus – or the new yellow Rolesor version of Rolex’s 36-millimetre Oyster Perpetual Explorer. Three brands, three styles, three icons: each to their own! Rolex’s cousin, Tudor, is not to be left out either, sporting its own two-tone offer with the appropriately-named ‘S&G’ (for Steel & Gold) Black Bays. Whether you prefer chronographs or three-hand versions, the common point of these four timepieces is that they all occupy sporty chic territory, where two-tone reigns supreme. But they are not alone. Bell & Ross lies in wait close by with its new Black Steel & Gold BR 05. Not to be outdone, Zenith has its brand-new rose gold Defy Extreme. H. Moser & Cie has taken up the baton too with the Pioneer Centre Second, its most affordable model – and one of its best-sellers. Last but by no means least, independent as ever, Breitling’s Chronomat B01 42 has entered the fray with copper rather than gold – an interesting two-tone variation from one of the emperors of the chronograph.