Introducing The ‘New’ Zenith Chronomaster Triple Calendar
The new Chronomaster Triple Calendar pays tribute to a rare El Primero prototype released in 1969.
A lot can happen in 55 years. In 1969, humans went to the moon, the laser printer was invented, the first message was sent from computer to computer (courtesy of ARPANET, a predecessor to our modern-day internet), the first temporary artificial heart was transplanted, the first presentation was given on string theory, the Beatles recorded Abbey Road, the Godfather was published, and, most importantly, it was the birth year of the walking fountain of youth, Paul Rudd.
In hindsight, the year 1969 marks a major shift in the opus of human civilization and our society as a whole. However, what is not listed here is that 1969 was also the year that Zenith released its iconic El Primero. Although not holding the same cultural weight as a moon landing, it too had a significant impact on the horological landscape.
And today, we are finally seeing the next chapter being written in the El Primero story, 55 years after its introduction, with the release of the Chronomaster Triple Calendar and Chronomaster Sport. At the time of writing, it seems as though the new Chronomaster Triple Calendar is the standout release from the historic maison.
I will be honest; after graduate school, when I first started to take horology seriously, the only association I made with Zenith was that it was an old TV Company. And despite not being entirely wrong in that assumption, as Zenith was owned by the Chicago-Based Radio Corporation between 1971 and 1978, their horology department was anything but your standard bargain-bin tube TV that you could purchase at the local Ames.
Brief History of Zenith and the El Primero
Founded in 1865 by visionary watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot in Le Locle, Switzerland, Zenith swiftly gained recognition for its dedication to precision and craftsmanship. Over the years, the manufacture etched its name in horological history with a range of iconic timepieces, but none more so than the legendary El Primero.
The El Primero is a masterpiece that holds some serious historical significance. Boasting the distinction of being the world’s first automatic chronograph movement, the El Primero revolutionized watchmaking. Its groundbreaking 5Hz frequency allowed for precise timekeeping to the nearest tenth of a second, a feat that set it apart from its contemporaries.
However, to fully understand the history of the El Primero and Zenith, one must know Charles Vermot.
A key figure within Zenith’s ébauches department, Vermot played a pivotal role in crafting numerous calibers, including the El Primero. Representing the culmination of over five years of intensive development, Zenith unveiled this masterpiece in 1969 as the world’s first high-frequency, automatic, and calendar-equipped chronograph.
What made it truly distinctive was its full integration, eschewing the common practice of attaching a chronograph module onto an existing automatic movement.
Nevertheless, the El Primero couldn’t immediately salvage the company’s financial woes; the substantial cost incurred during its development likely played a pivotal role in the firm’s eventual collapse. Shortly thereafter, Zenith underwent a change in ownership, finding itself acquired by the Chicago-based Zenith Radio Corporation. The new American proprietors swiftly declared their intent to redirect the company’s resources towards the burgeoning field of quartz movements.
In a bid to dissuade the owners from forsaking the recently acquired automatic chronograph, Vermot penned a letter to Chicago, emphasizing its enduring importance to the company’s future. Regrettably, his efforts were in vain. Vermot’s plea fell on deaf ears, and by 1975, the venerable Martel Watch Company building was shuttered, marking the demise of the El Primero and all other contemporaneous calibers. The machinery, tools, and components faced an uncertain fate—destined for disposal or sale. But Vermot would not have it, spending his final months at Ponts-de-Martel Facility hiding the equipment used for its production inside the company’s attic.
This surplus proved beneficial in 1981 when Ebel approached Zenith with a request for an order, and Zenith was able to fulfill it. The year 1982 saw another significant development when Rolex approached Zenith in search of a self-winding chronograph movement for the Daytona. The collaboration resulted in the introduction of the first automatic Daytona in 1988, with the ref. 16520, featuring a modified version of the El Primero operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour.
The New Releases
The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar pays homage to an El Primero prototype from 1970, of which only 25 were produced as proof of concept.
According to Zenith, the casing isn’t merely reminiscent of vintage styles; instead, it adheres precisely to the original A386 blueprint from 1969. The 38mm stainless steel case of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar (with a lug-to-lug distance of 46mm) and has a thickness of 13mm is compact and proportionally perfect. The watch is available in three distinct dial colors: white with black subdials, slate gray with white subdials, and an exclusive green edition exclusively offered through Zenith’s boutiques.
In 2012, one of these prototypes surfaced, fetching $40,000 at auction; that exact watch was purchased by Zenith themselves.
The recently introduced slate gray hue pays a direct homage to the original prototypes, while the other two options present a contemporary reinterpretation. However, these models are not mere replicas; the CO Triple Calendar decided to get dressed up and features hands and indices plated in rose gold for an elevated aesthetic.
The most noteworthy transformation lies on the inside with Zenith’s latest El Primero caliber 3610 which integrates a calendar module into the pre-existing El Primero chronograph caliber. Although the base movement remains unchanged, beating at 5 Hertz, the addition of the calendar module introduces a refined timepiece, with the chronograph hand gracefully traversing the entire dial every 10 seconds.
The white and gray dial variations will have broad availability. On the other hand, the green dial is exclusively limited to Zenith’s physical and online boutiques. All three options are presented with the choice of a calfskin leather strap or a steel bracelet. The manufacturer’s MSRP stands at $13,900 for the bracelet option and $13,400 for the strap variant.
Our Impression
Without having seen these watches in person, I always hesitate to dive too far into any type of criticism. That said, this modern rendition toes the line perfectly between honoring history while ushering in a modern era for the El Primero.
The 38mm size is absolutely perfect, and the layout of the dial remains completely legible for all that is going on with this watch. In comparison to the 2014 Zenith El Primero Triple Calendar in 42mm, this watch has a personality, whereas the latter did very little to differentiate it from the thousands of other luxury chronographs that came in at a similar price point ($11,000 at the time of release).
The new day, month, and moonphase complications seamlessly fit alongside the chronograph. The days of the week and months are perfectly positioned above the chronograph counters. However, for me, it is the traditional El Primero Date window at 4:30 that leaves me wanting more. I know this is a hot button topic with collectors and also understand there is little room to work with on a 38mm watch, but I still wish they found a way to put the date at 6 o’clock. This is a small gripe for an incredible watch.
The moonphase with its slight pop of blue and rose gold moon makes the watch in my opinion transporting this from a functional chronograph sports watch to a watch of pure class. It seems as though the El Primero got a celebrity worthy glow-up and is ready for the red carpet. Find out more at Zenith-Watches.com.