Green Dials: The Final Lineup

Black, blue, gray, or green? Each season brings with it the latest ‘in’ color for watches. This year, green seems to have taken the lion’s share. Is this just a flash in the pan, or a market reality?  

It would be nice to pigeonhole watchmaking trends as you would in a catalog, with colors and fashions corresponding to each year’s output. Unfortunately, the market, which is to say the client, often has other ideas. One such example is vintage, a huge trend over the last five years showing absolutely no signs of abating. The same is true of black dials. The trend for ‘full black’ watches, notably pilots’ watches such as Breitling’s Avenger and Super Avenger, lives on; there are even some interesting relics in the form of Vantablack projects—from H. Moser & Cie., for instance.  

The green wave that broke over Watches & Wonders 2021 may cause bewilderment. Is it a fad or the next big thing?  

As one major retailer quite rightly commented, “Green or blue dials are an excellent draw with universal appeal. But once customers get to the counter, nine times out of ten they opt for a grey dial and a leather strap.”  

It’s a perspective offering a way of keeping one’s head while others may seem to be in danger of losing theirs over a phenomenon that might turn out to be nothing more than a brief—albeit colourful—distraction in the end.  

For the time being though, green is what’s on show, in over 40 shades, too. It’s amusing to note that even when it comes to racing, TAG Heuer’s Monaco, a watch as blue as they come, has now been clad in green for its Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition. Admittedly, this kind of variation had already appeared in a limited edition in Japan, in a slightly different hue.  

The Storming of the Top 3

Although, one necessary—but insufficient—condition is required for the green trend to gain a firm foothold: big brands putting leading models in the green niche. That has certainly been the case this year. Rolex had its Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36, complete with olive-green dial and palm-tree decor. Patek Philippe has given its Twenty~4 and Nautilus the green treatment, as has Audemars Piguet for its immutableRoyal Oak. The manufacture has cast its net wide, introducing three green-dialled models featuring three hands, chronograph, or tourbillon, in steel, gold, or jewelled versions.  

The Big Guns Strike Back

As might be imagined, big players such as Richemont and the Swatch Group have entered the fray, too. Cartier, for example, has just unveiled a Tank Must in a particularly vivid green. Blancpain, meanwhile, has produced a verdant Boutique edition Ultra Slim Villeret for the classically-minded, and a Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback for the sportier watch-lover. Omega is splashing around in the same lagoon with its Seamaster Aqua Terra, as is Panerai with its Luminor Marina e-Steel, green in both senses of the word by virtue of being made from recycled aluminium. And while we’re at the waterside, nobody can resist the temptation to get a nice bronze tan—not even the latest Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight, complete with green dial, bronze case, and Jacquard fabric strap.  

Moving into the air, IWC has come up with a new 41mm pilot’s watch in an imposing shade of green. A few clouds further on, we find Breitling’s offering: a particularly original Premier Heritage Chronograph 40 in a more pastel hue.  

My First Green

These prestigious brands now carry a number of far more affordable alternatives too. For example, Tissot’s Gentleman Powermatic 80 and Seastar, as well as Michel Herbelin with its Cap Camarat, new for 2021. There’s also a rare Traversetolo ‘Hope’ from Eberhard & Co. Not to be outdone, Rado’s legendary Captain Cook is now available with a bronze case and green dial, as well as with a NATO fabric strap. And just this May, Longines has brought out a very affordable Spirit, sporting a most attractive olive-green dial with an irresistible vintage touch. Bell & Ross’ great idea is well worth a mention as well, as the entire dial of the BR V2-94 Full Lum—filled with green Super-LumiNova—is only truly green at night.  

Rare Greens

For those seeking something that really stands out, green dials also come in limited editions. F.P. Journe debuted a Dubai Boutique Edition Chronomètre Souverain Platine that has as already sold out. Also in Dubai—and indeed, nowhere else—we could set off in search of a Zenith Defy 21. While we’re at it, we could look out forVan Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Emeraude Watch, richly jewelled and extremely rare. Also for women, Bulgari’s latest Serpenti featuring a malachite dial that will be released this spring. Over at De Bethune, our favorite would be the DB27 Titan Hawk, with a green dial, naturally. And even if it means leaving the well-worn paths of Switzerland, why not head for Japan to pick up a Grand Seiko SBGJ251 Shunbun, just out in May 2021.  

For the Sake of Independence

In conclusion, let’s not forget that—as is often the case when it comes to watchmaking creativity—the independent brands went for green dials well before the bigger players. One such example is H. Moser & Cie, as early as 2017 and still going strong with two variations of the same green in a single piece, aptly named the Mega Cool; Czapek produced its Rainforest Green in 2018, and now has the more recent Emerald Iceberg. A unique piece for a collector has even been spotted in green at Mauron-Musy. Another forerunner was MB&F’s Legacy Machine, as well as the most recent Speake-Marin featuring a refreshing Dual Time in mint.