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Best Watches Under $8,000: A Gift, a Reward, an Upgrade

Justin Mastine-Frost7 Min ReadDec 11 2020

These days, there is no standard. There is no normal. Some are struggling, and some are thriving. How we look at the collecting hobby will vary accordingly, but if you’ve made it here, then at the very least, you have watch shopping on the brain. The holidays are almost upon us, and that might mean the reward of a new watch. It could also mean the swapping in of something you’re not wearing for something new. We’re choosing the $8k margin for this list for a few reasons—not because this is the minimum or maximum that anyone should be spending, but rather because it’s a threshold under which there remains a lot of quality watches that deliver solid value on the pre-owned market. It doesn’t matter if this is your “stretch” goal for your first big watch, or a comfortable sticker price for something destined to be a daily wear when you don’t have to be dressed up for the boardroom. That in mind, let’s get into our selections.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze

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Between the wonderful vintage design cues of the Black Bay lineup, the use of the MT5601 COSC-certified automatic caliber, and the charming and ever-changing glow of a bronze case, it’s easy to call the Black Bay out as a winner. Its 43mm case puts it on the larger end of the spectrum, making it a better candidate for larger wrists, however if you can comfortably pull it off, do it. These things start to slowly age the moment they come out of the box, and the choice of aluminum bronze leads to a cooler greyish hue that’s a great match for its dial and bezel.

Rolex Explorer II 16570

One of the last late model Rolex references that hasn’t spiked north of the $10k as of yet in the midst of this ongoing steel Rolex craze, the 16570 is a go-to for a wide range of reasons, though most notably the fact that it’s the last of the line before its case size grew from 40 to 42mm. Sure, it doesn’t have the oversized GMT hand of the modern variant, however the trade for wearability is well worth it. Much like a pre-ceramic Submariner, there’s much more of a “tool watch” vibe to the 16570, in part thanks to its brushed top surfaces throughout. This is one of few prime Rolex models for those who don’t like to draw unwanted attention.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34mm 114200

One of two Rolex offerings on the list, this reference of Oyster Perpetual in a 34mm case is unique in that its dial design overlaps with an Air King of the same reference number. Its 3-6-9 dial configuration is the same as that of the Rolex Explorer, and though its size is quite modest by modern standards, it has remained in the Rolex catalog until just recently. The particular dial layout and color is one we wish we would see more of throughout the Rolex catalog, and its mostly brushed finish once again has a bit more of a utility vibe than a Datejust or other references. If the smaller size suits you, this OP rivals even the latest colorful dial variants in terms of personality.

Omega Seamaster 300

The rebirth of the modern Omega Seamaster 300 seen here arrived in 2014, one year ahead of the model’s appearance in the James Bond film Spectre. Not to worry though, the charm of this reference extends miles beyond its association with 007 (even if it is offered on a Bond-style NATO strap). Modeled after the first Seamaster from 1957, a long and flat case profile and rather long lugs ensure that this 41mm diameter diver has a substantial presence on the wrist. This two-tone on NATO look might be the best of the pack, as the gold touches on its bezel and crown complement the faux-aged luminous indices and hands perfectly. These can also be had on a matching two-tone bracelet, which would make for a much flashier vibe.

Panerai Luminor Base Logo Paneristi 15th Anniversary PAM 634

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If you’ve got a Panerai in mind, there are countless examples to choose from these days, though there’s absolutely nothing wrong with keeping it simple and rocking a Base Logo—especially when it’s a Paneristi 15th Anniversary Edition. In 2015, the Paneristi (an online group of passionate Panerai collectors) celebrated their 15th in style, as the brand offered to release a 500-piece boutique edition for the collecting community. It’s simple, it’s no-frills, and very much an “if you know, you know” sort of watch.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Miramar

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When the Top Gun Miramar hit the market in 2012, in all of its 46mm ceramic-cased glory, it was a significant departure from what had been seen from the brand in years past. The Pilot had always been more of the “gentleman’s utility,” so to speak, and in rolls the Miramar with a gunmetal case, matching dial, and combination of cream and red accents on an olive drab strap. This was military chic, before military chic was in full swing in the fashion world, and after 8 years, the style is as fresh and on-point as it was then. The fact that it’s backed up by an automatic IWC in-house manufacture flyback chronograph caliber is just icing on this well-styled cake.

Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115

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And now for something completely different. How about a modern skeletonized hand-wound watch with a 10-day power reserve? How about all of that with a price tag under $6k? Welcome to the Oris Propilot X Calibre 115, a watch that launched to much fanfare in the fall of 2019. Building on the success of their past 11x line of calibers, this time the brand opted for something much more modern, all while delivering this massive power reserve for far less money than the competition. Its titanium case and bracelet are a touch on the large side, at 44.7mm across, but thanks to its titanium construction, it remains light enough to not be too cumbersome on the wrist.

Sinn UX EZM 2B

On the topic of day-to-day wear, nobody makes a reliable and affordable tool watch quite like Sinn. The German firm’s focus is always to have form follow function, and many of their pieces are crafted for specific environments where they will truly be put to work. In the case of the a href=”/shop/Sinn-Diving-403-030.html”>UX EZM, we have a true utility dive watch, made of hardened submarine steel, and fitted with a high-precision quartz caliber in an oil filled case. If you’ve never experienced one of these before, you’re in for a treat. Oil-filled dive watches are designed for optimal legibility from any angle, to a point that even the most glare-proof sapphire crystal can’t rival. At 44mm across this one is a bit of a tank, but it’s also designed to be bulletproof, so that’s kind of the point.

TAG Heuer Autavia

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This most recent version of the TAG Heuer is an interesting one. On one hand, it’s a very handsome watch that has a number of vintage-inspired elements (its dial, numerals, and distressed strap) without being directly inspired from any particular watch in the TAG Heuer archives—despite being named an Autavia. Beyond that, its 42mm case and short lugs give it a comfortable fit for a wide range of wrist sizes. Vintage Heuer purists will debate the validity of making an Autavia that isn’t a chronograph, but for those who can see past the nomenclature, this is an affordable, well made, and thoughtfully designed watch suited for your day-to-day environment.