2024 In Watches: Triumphs, Trends, And Controversies

As the year draws to a close, the internet predictably fills with cliché and redundant year-end wrap-up articles. You know the type—someone tries to shoehorn a bunch of watches into a metaphorical Spotify Wrapped comparison. It’s as inevitable as a flashback to Creed’s halftime performance on Thanksgiving. These articles aren’t bad, per se. They’re solid SEO fodder, generating clicks much like the “Three Watches Under $5K” pieces that saturate every podcast.

Still, there’s something to be said about pausing for reflection, even if the idea of an arbitrary date on a calendar signaling the end of one year and the start of another feels contrived. Stopping to smell the roses, as clichéd as that is, has its merits. Looking back at the past year—at the moments that quickened our pulses and brought a spark to our eyes—can be a valuable exercise.

Looking Back at 2024: A Year in Watches

For us watch enthusiasts, 2024 delivered plenty of attention-grabbing headlines. The year-end auctions concluded on a high note, with Steve McQueen’s vintage Heuer Monaco fetching $1.4 million at Sotheby’s in New York. Geneva’s auction season didn’t disappoint either, featuring remarkable sales like a Breguet perpetual calendar that went for over $2 million and an early F.P. Journe Souscription Tourbillon piece surpassing $8 million.

Cartier was crowned “Watch Brand of the Year” by GQ, a recognition that surprised no one. The maison has transcended its iconic red boxes and millennial clout, redefining its place in contemporary horology. Meanwhile, Ming edged out Tudor to win a GPHG award, and Omega set social media ablaze with a series of releases, including the FOIS (First Omega in Space) and the Flight Qualified Speedmaster.

The year also saw the long-awaited return of Universal Geneve, which reemerged with the Piece Unique Polerouter. Likewise, the Seafarer made a splashy comeback. Vintage watches had their moment in the spotlight, as collectors gravitated toward models exuding heritage and charm.

The year wasn’t short on controversy, with the Only Watch Charity auction being postponed due to a lack of financial transparency. Concerns were raised over how funds from previous auctions were allocated, leading to a wave of criticism from collectors and industry insiders. This sparked debates about accountability in charity-driven events.

And lest we forget the Cubitus—a watch that, set the watch world ablaze with controversy. Released by Patek Philippe this fall, the Cubitus sparked polarizing opinions due to its, well, design I suppose. Yet, as they say, all publicity is good publicity. Despite the uproar, the watch sold out almost immediately, solidifying, yet again, Patek Philippe’s status as the darling of the luxury watch world. The Cubitus proved that Patek’s influence and desirability remain unparalleled in the industry.

Shifting Trends in Watch Design

This year, we witnessed a renewed embrace of gold cases, unconventional shapes, smaller diameters, and “geezer watches”—those vintage-inspired timepieces with integrated bracelets and non-traditional dials.

Stone dials also surged in popularity, with tiger’s eye and lapis lazuli becoming part of the everyday watch enthusiast’s vernacular. The term “asymmetrical” was tossed around frequently, thanks in no small part to Sylvain Berneron’s work.

Sylvain Berneron’s Meteoric Rise

We cannot talk about watches this year without mentioning Berneron. A French designer with roots in industrial design for automotive giants like BMW, Porsche, and Ducati, transitioned seamlessly into the world of horology. He founded his eponymous brand and stunned the watch world with the Mirage, an asymmetrical masterpiece now sold out until 2028.

Before striking out on his own, Berneron worked as Chief Product Officer at Breitling and made significant contributions to Richemont’s portfolio. His ingenuity was recognized with the Audacity Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie in Geneva, cementing his status as a visionary in the industry.

Looking Forward

Last year, I made what I considered a bold prediction: that 2024 would be the year of the moonphase. And I wasn’t far off. Numerous watches featuring moonphase complications were released, and two of my favorites were the Laurent Ferrier Galet Moonphase and the IWC Eternal Perpetual Calendar.

It’s clear that public sentiment has shifted away from hyped-up pieces toward those with true uniqueness. Collectors are increasingly drawn to watches for their intrinsic horological value rather than clout, appreciating what makes them truly special.

This is a promising trend. As a purist, I’m heartened to see people moving beyond brand names and social media appeal, reconnecting with the romance and artistry that watch collecting inherently embodies. This in turn has led to a rise of many microbrands such as Furlan Marri, Baltic, Nivada Grenchen, Brew and Studio Underdog.

My prediction for next year is that luxury fashion brands will continue to push further into the watchmaking space. Louis Vuitton, through their collaboration with Rexhep Rexhepi and their La Fabrique du Temps division, has demonstrated a serious commitment to advancing true horological luxury. Meanwhile, brands like Chanel and Hermès, which have long had high horology departments, are poised to reach new heights.

With their vast resources and expertise, these fashion powerhouses have the potential to truly compete with the rest of the market, further blurring the lines between traditional watchmaking and high-fashion innovation.

Reflecting on the State of Horology

Was 2024 a standout year in the grand timeline of watchmaking? It’s hard to say. Alongside the glitz and triumphs, serious conversations emerged about the state of watch journalism and its ties to brand influence. Questions about luxury’s place in a turbulent world loomed large, with geopolitical instability impacting every facet of the industry. Many pundits even called for a more positive narrative, while others criticized a perceived “lack of creativity and originality” within the industry.

These debates reflect a broader introspection within the watch world, as it grapples with balancing tradition and innovation, as well as navigating an increasingly complex global landscape.

Yet, even amid doom-and-gloom predictions for the market, luxury watches surged to a staggering $54 billion in global sales. Perhaps that’s proof enough that horology remains resilient, if not thriving, in the face of uncertainty.

So, as we bid farewell to 2024, let’s take a moment to appreciate the highlights—the milestones that made us smile, the watches that took our breath away, and the stories that reminded us why we fell in love with this hobby in the first place.