Watches & Wonders Recap: The Year of the Moonphase Has Arrived

There is so much to unpack from the previous week’s slew of releases. Every online platform will undoubtedly give you their recap, rundown of all their favorites, stand outs, sleeper picks. But as I looked back at the plethora of releases I couldn’t help but notice a trend, one that made me smile and it is because, in my utmost humble opinion and to use one of my least favorite cliches, I hit the proverbial nail on the head.

I have never been a big gambler. I love a good parlay from time to time and if I ever find myself in a casino nothing gets me going like throwing down a little money at a roulette table (always on black). The biggest regrets always come from the bets you felt you should have made but never did and in this case — I should have found someone around The 1916 Company office to make a bet with me about 2024 being the year of the moonphase.

It is hard to say the exact number of new releases, but from the major watch houses we saw 14 new watches that utilized a moonphase complication. The moonphase is one of the oldest, and most romantic of complications that our very own Jack Forster has covered in the past.

Below are the big moonphase releases (in no particular order) from Watches & Wonders 2024:

• Trilobe Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise
• IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar
• Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”
• Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon
• Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar
• Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire in Stainless Steel
• Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date
• Vacheron Constantin Egerie Concept – The Pleats of Time
• Patek Philippe Grand Complications In-Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P
• Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon
• Van Cleef Arpels Lady & Lady Arpels Jour Nuit
• Baume & Mercier Clifton Moon-Phase Editions
• Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture
• De Bethune Grand Complication (Although De Bethune did not exhibit at Watches & Wonders, the Grand Comp was so impressive I had to include it in my moonphase recap).

While the 14 moon phase releases at Watches and Wonders are undoubtedly impressive, covering each one in-depth would make for a lengthy article. Instead, I’ve decided to highlight my top picks from the collection, showcasing the timepieces that caught my eye. From innovative designs to intricate craftsmanship, these standout watches demonstrate the best of what Watches & Wonders had to offer.

Trilobe Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise

Trilobe is known for their creative dial designs and displays and with the Les Matinaux they continued this trend and the watch eschews traditional hands in favor of orbiting planetary rings that intersect with stationary markers. This unconventional approach is further elevated by a sleek, minimalist dial design.

A new font design for the Arabic numerals was introduced, featuring elegant, italicized Breguet numerals on rotating discs that create a mesmerizing spiral effect. This typography seamlessly integrates into the watch’s aesthetic, appearing as though it was always meant to be there.

The true pièce de résistance, however, is the moonphase complication, a first for Trilobe. While previous models focused on creative time displays, the moonphase takes center stage, nestled within the innermost ring of the time display, coaxial with the seconds disc. A silver-colored base, laser-engraved with textures evoking the lunar surface, is topped with a blue cover featuring circular guilloche finish. Notably, the moonphase doesn’t supplant the seconds display; instead, the seconds ring transforms into an indicative display, featuring a transparent sapphire disc adorned with stars, subtly signaling the movement’s operation. This thoughtful update enhances the watch’s charm and functionality, making it a true masterpiece.

IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

The Eternal Calendar was definitely one of the most talked about watches at the show.

Jack Forster gave us an in-depth analysis on this piece last week. So I am just going to cover the cliffnotes.

Using the Portugieser case, IWC packed in a modern surprise –  it all starts with the Eternal Calendar’s glass dial, which reveals the intricate calendar mechanism beneath. This innovative design feat is made possible by a sapphire bridge in the calendar module, a first for IWC. The extensive use of sapphire hints at the movement’s impressive technical prowess. And indeed, the mechanics are a marvel. The “eternal” calendar complication, with its self-correcting, immortal design, is a masterpiece that will appeal to both mechanical enthusiasts and romantics. This ingenious system tracks years, months, dates, days, and moonphases in perfect harmony, with minimal adjustment required over millennia.

To put it simply, this is the final boss of moonphases.

Over the years, the original calendar module has undergone subtle refinements, while maintaining its fundamental construction. Notable improvements include safety features that prevent misuse and a significantly enhanced moon phase accuracy. The original module had an accuracy of one day in 122 years, while the 2003 iteration improved this to one day in 577.5 years. In contrast, the Eternal Calendar’s double moon display boasts an astonishing accuracy of one day in 45 million years, made possible by IWC’s engineers and constructors who calculated the gearing using computer simulations that tested over 22 trillion combinations.

To put this achievement into perspective, the Guinness World Record for the most precise moon phase display was awarded to Andreas Strehler’s Lune Perpétuelle in 2014, with an accuracy of one day in two million years. The Eternal Calendar moon display surpasses this record by an impressive 22 times, a testament to IWC’s innovative excellence.

Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” ref. 740.055FE/LSLS7406AA builds upon the foundation of its 2019 predecessor, a limited-edition white gold model with a salmon-colored pink gold dial. While it retains the same core design and functionality, it introduces a few key distinctions. Notably, the new model omits the arc-shaped power reserve indicator that previously sat between the 9 and 10 o’clock positions. Instead, it showcases a stunning Honeygold case, crafted from a patented 18k gold alloy that falls between pink and white gold.

As a “Lumen” model, this limited edition features a smoked sapphire dial that allows a deluge of green lume to shine through its semi-transparent surface. This creates a mesmerizing display, with the luminous elements illuminating the dial’s surface like a celestial canvas. I saw plenty of Instagram influencers asking for repeated hits of the “lume juice” to view this stunning dial in all its glowing glory.

The dial itself is constructed from a single piece of smoked sapphire, a hallmark of Lange’s “Lumen” models. The layout follows the same multifunctional design as its predecessors, with two registers and a moonphase indicator occupying the lower half, a tachymeter scale surrounding the periphery, and the signature outsize date complication sitting proudly at 12 o’clock.

The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a masterclass in horological excellence, combining a flyback chronograph, perpetual calendar, moonphase indicator, and one-minute tourbillon with Lange’s signature outsize date display. The result is a timepiece that is both technically impressive and visually stunning, with its Honeygold case and smoked sapphire dial creating a truly unique and captivating presence on the wrist.

And don’t forget — the moonphase. It has a gorgeous moonphase.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon

JLC came out swinging this year and definitely made more of a splash than most were expecting.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is built around the innovative Duometre movement that was first introduced in 2007. This groundbreaking design addresses the issue of additional complications compromising timekeeping accuracy by featuring two separate power sources and gear trains. One train is dedicated to precise timekeeping, while the other drives the various complications.

With this foundation, Jaeger-LeCoultre has added an array of complications to the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, including a perpetual calendar, moonphase display, dual power reserve indicators, grande date display, and the showstopping triple-axis Heliotourbillon. This latest evolution of the brand’s iconic Gyrotourbillon, first introduced in 2004, takes precision to new heights. While the Gyrotourbillon rotates on two axes, the Heliotourbillon boasts an additional independent cage and a third axis, comprising 163 intricately crafted components.

The Heliotourbillon is definitely the star of this watch’s design but alas we can’t forget it has that little trend of the year — a moonphase.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chrono Moon

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chrono Moon boasts the revamped caliber 391, (based on the 381) building upon the Duometre legacy with a monopusher chronograph, moonphase, day-night complication, two power reserve indicators, and a flying seconds display. The innovative Duometre design features two separate barrels and mainsprings driving timekeeping and complications, integrated into a single caliber and escapement. When the chronograph is activated, the flying seconds hand spins at an incredible 1/6th of a second.

The partially open-worked dial and sapphire caseback reveal various finishes, including Geneva stripes and sunrayed Geneva stripes. The manual wind movement boasts 50 hours of power reserve and a 3 Hz beat rate.

When the chronograph is activated, the foudroyante hand (the flying seconds hands) makes a complete rotation in one second, beating six times and stopping instantaneously to provide accurate 1/6th of a second readings.

The open-working of caliber 391 serves both aesthetic and technical purposes, enhancing the watch’s look while facilitating easier assembly of complex parts. This exemplifies Jaeger-LeCoultre’s philosophy of harmoniously marrying mechanics and aesthetics. To me this is the basis of great watchmaking.

As a manually wound caliber, the absence of a winding rotor showcases the chronograph levers, while the moonphase display and night and day display are symmetrically integrated into the chronograph hours and minutes sub-dial and time sub-dial, respectively. The tachymeter scale on the dial periphery enables speed and distance calculations, making this timepiece a masterpiece of horological innovation.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date

Vacheron Constantin’s new Patrimony Manual-Winding watches may appear familiar at first glance, but they boast subtle updates that set them apart from their predecessors. The slim round cases, now measuring 39mm in diameter (down from 40mm), are available in white gold or pink gold and feature a slender 7.7mm profile. The signature convex dials have been refreshed with a new “old-silver-toned” color, complete with a sunburst finish that adds a touch of vintage flair. The dials are home to slim hands, tapered hour markers, and round pearl-like plots, all crafted in pink gold regardless of the case metal. New leather strap colors have also been introduced, with “azure blue” accompanying the pink gold model and olive green paired with the white gold variant.

While the simple time-only editions have been the backbone of the Patrimony line for over two decades, the collection has also welcomed various complications, including perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, and retrograde displays. For Watches & Wonders 2024, Vacheron Constantin presents an updated Patrimony Moonphase Retrograde Date, featuring the new “old-silver-toned” dial and olive green leather strap combination. The white gold case measures 42.5mm in diameter and 9.7mm thick, housing a dial with a traditional layout that includes a retrograde date display and moonphase indicator. Pink gold time-telling hands, hour markers, and minute plots are complemented by a blue date arrow-tipped hand, while the moonphase display combines pink gold and blue hues.

The moonphase complication accounts for the lunar cycle’s irregularities, requiring only one manual correction every 122 years. Powering the Patrimony Moonphase Retrograde Date is the beautifully executed and decorated self-winding Caliber 2460 R31L, visible through the exhibition caseback. This Hallmark of Geneva-certified manufacture movement beats at 28,800 beats per hour, provides 40 hours of power reserve, and comprises 275 components and 27 jewels.

Vacheron Constantin Egerie Concept – The Pleats of Time

The Égérie The Pleats of Time Concept Watch harmoniously merges three worlds: Haute Horlogerie, Haute Couture, and Haute Parfumerie (I will be honest, the Parfumerie aspect of these watches is a bit odd, but I support the quirkiness of it). This innovative timepiece boasts a 37mm pink gold case, adorned with diamonds and featuring a unique powdered lilac dial with an intricate ‘pleats’ pattern. The asymmetrical design, a hallmark of the Maison, is evident in the diagonal placement of the moonphase, crown, and logo at 8 o’clock. The dial, crafted from mother-of-pearl, features a ‘pleats’ pattern that unfolds in two stages, creating a truly wild visual effect. The absence of hour-markers invites the wearer to experience time in a more intuitive and emotional way.

Renowned designer Yiqing Yin has created an exclusive strap featuring exquisite artistic embroidery, with mother-of-pearl shards inlaid between silk threads. What’s more, master perfumer Dominique Ropion has designed a fragrance that is encapsulated in the strap’s components, releasing randomly as the strap interacts with the skin and wrist movements.

The mother-of-pearl dial features a smooth or ‘pleats’ motif, and the moonphase is part of a subtle diagonal line formed by the Vacheron Constantin logo and crown. The watch retains its characteristic asymmetry, with a crown at 2 o’clock and the logo at 8 o’clock. The in-house Calibre 1088 L ensures accurate timekeeping, while its hand-crafted Côtes de Genève motif and delicately openworked 22-carat gold oscillating weight, inspired by the Maltese cross, are visible through the transparent caseback.

Patek Philippe Grand Complications In-Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P

At first glance, the Patek Philippe Grand Complications In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P-010 appears to be a new dial variation of the original ref. 5236P-0001 introduced in 2021. This means it features a polished platinum case measuring 41.3mm in diameter and 11.07mm thick, with sapphire crystals on both the dial and display-style caseback. Like its predecessor, the ref. 5236P-010 has a water resistance of 30 meters and is adorned with a small diamond on the 6 o’clock side of the case, a signature detail reserved for Patek Philippe’s platinum timepieces.

The new dial, described as “rose-gilt opaline” by Patek Philippe, boasts a warm, salmon-inspired hue. As it’s been stated before I truly believe everyone needs a salmon dial in their collection. White gold hands and applied faceted baton markers are finished in dark gray charcoal, while dial printing and text are executed in black. The day, date, and month are displayed in a linear format at 12 o’clock, with the moonphase display and running seconds occupying the lower half of the dial. Two small circular apertures flank the moonphase display, with the left-hand side indicating day/night and the right-hand side tracking the leap year cycle.

This is one of those watches that just hits on all cylinders. The moonphase fits the dial perfectly. It is clean, it is stylish, it is truly timeless.

Powered by the ultra-thin Caliber 31-260 PS QL automatic movement, this timepiece features a solid platinum micro-rotor and winds itself with ease. Comprising 503 individual components, the Patek Philippe Cal. 31-260 PS QL is a 55-jewel movement that beats at 28,800vph (4 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. It simultaneously displays the time, day, date, month, leap year, and moonphase, along with a convenient day/night indicator.

Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon

And I had to save my favorite for last. Laurent Ferrier has been a sleeping giant in the luxury watch sphere. To those in the know they are some of the most sought after independent brands in the world. And they came out with a classic moonphase that gives one everything they could ever want or need in a watch.

The unveiling of the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon reveals a masterclass in watchmaking, echoing the triple-calendar complication of the École Annual Calendar. This new duo release boasts a distinct case design, setting it apart from other collections. The legibility of the watch face is uncompromised, with a wide-angle window showcasing the day and month in crisp font. A brand first, the handcrafted double-moonphase display is a work of art, requiring meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail.

Not one but two. The double-moonphase is the king of moonphases.

The moonphase disc, engraved with the shapes of the Northern and Southern Hemisphere moons and stars, is a marvel of precision. The application of white paint and lume, followed by high-temperature firing and individual engraving of lunar craters, makes each watch a unique piece. The figure-eight-like shape with translucent enamel appliqués frames the waxing and waning moons, adding an extra layer of elegance.

The two versions of the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon exude distinct personalities, thanks to the dial color, textures, and details. The gray-blue opaline dial, framed by polished steel, radiates an sporty cool vibe, while the soft Alcantara-lined strap adds a touch of casual elegance. The red gold version, with its slender Roman numerals on a silver dial, leans towards classicism, showcasing the brand’s mastery of balance and proportion.

And I can’t choose which variation I like the most. My gut reaction when these first dropped was the steel but as time has passed that rose gold variant keeps calling me back.

The new caliber, visible through the sapphire window, boasts an impressive 80-hour power reserve, indicated by a crescent-shaped power reserve indicator. The calendar complication automatically adjusts for months with 30 and 31 days, with manual adjustment only required once a year. The correctors for day and moonphase displays are discreetly recessed on the case, allowing for effortless adjustments.

Inspired by the LF126.01 movement, the new LF126.02 caliber has been redesigned with 30 new parts and over 20 revised and optimized components.

The Year of The Moonphase

I know it may be a slight exaggeration but I say that my prediction hit. The moonphase complication was out in full force this year. In the words of Kobe Bean Bryant (maybe, unconfirmed) — “Shooters shoot and winners win.”