Watches & Wonders: A Personal ‘Best Of’ with Olivier Müller
Hopefully, having ‘Watches & Wonders’ take place wholly online is only a temporary measure until the end of the pandemic. Despite the obvious limitations of the format, several new releases clearly stood out from the crowd. Here’s an atypical, enthusiastic, and entirely subjective selection of timepieces worth seeing as soon as possible in real life.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Reverso has made a real splash: 11 complications, 12 patents, 6 years in development, and 800 components for this, the first watch in the world with four faces. It also features what must be one of the most complete astronomical complications – in this case a moon complication. The new Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is capable of predicting future astronomical events such as supermoons and eclipses, making it the first wristwatch in the world to offer such a thorough understanding of the heavens.
By contrast, Purnell only produces tourbillon watches, so there’s no doubt about what you’re dealing with here. The new Escape Primo has just one, unlike the double tourbillon timepieces recently presented by the firm. In its splendid isolation, the tourbillon’s hypnotic, gyroscopic dance irresistibly draws your gaze. Designed by genius Eric Coudray, it’s the world’s fastest gyrotourbillon, rotating around three axes every 8, 16, and 36 seconds; the effect is truly arresting.
Meanwhile, Bulgari is continuing to set new records with its new Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, delivering the brand’s seventh world record for slimness. To achieve this feat for a Perpetual Calendar, the manufacture has opted for a set of retrograde hands, backed up by 408 components in a movement just 2.75 millimetres thick.
The new Datejust by Rolex is a fitting tribute to the crown brand. Measuring 36 mm, in Oystersteel and yellow gold, it features a golden dial, fluted décor, and Jubilee strap. There’s acclaim for the dial, which features the same motifs as Rolex’s much-loved and legendary bezel – a new style signature that’s quite simply perfect.
Hublot remains the undisputed master of sapphire, and the new Integral Sapphire proves it once again, all the more so in that there’s hardly anything to be seen: in a dizzying feat of technology, the entire case and surround are made from transparent sapphire, as are the movement’s bridges and the strap. What’s next? Having the caliber components themselves made from sapphire?!
Hermès always likes to be different, and that’s what makes the firm so unique. The Parisian saddle-makers have unveiled their H08, an entirely new creation – a significant achievement at a time when 50% of the market is making do with re-issues. The lines are gentle yet powerful; the proportions are just right, with an original touch in every detail. Elegant chic rather than sporty-chic, it really needs to be seen on the wrist to show off all its subtleties to the greatest effect.
Jean-Marc Pontroué has brought a new lease of life to Panerai, at a time when the brand was losing hope. Among countless beautiful creations, there’s the new Piccolo Due Madreperla ladies’ collection, which is especially well done – and opens up the world of the Italian manufacture to the fairer sex.
Skeletonisation has become an art form in its own right, accompanied by highly specialist knowhow. The technique can give a familiar watch a whole other look. Piaget has just unveiled a very successful skeleton version of its Polo. The work on each component opens up the watch, slims down its figure, and comes with an attractive extra touch: blue PVD on the bridges, all crafted to perfection in a highly contemporary style.
Maurice Lacroix is a brand to look out for. After its highly successful Aïkon, the firm has now combined the designs of its Aïkon and Master collections to create the Aïkon Master. The case and pattern on the hour dial come from the Aïkon. The offset layout and escapement at 8 o’clock, with a splendid balance wheel, come from the Master. In addition, there’s a large date at 10 o’clock… all for €7,500. What’s not to like?
No brand is entirely devoid of re-issues. Some are watches that have hardly changed at all; the Tank, by Cartier, which is celebrating its centenary this year, is one of them. Cartier has revisited its Grand Modèle. There’s nothing particularly surprising about the white dial, black Roman numerals, or cabochon crown, but as ever, there’s that feel for what’s just right, what’s essential – and for perfect proportions. It’s a piece that has come down through the centuries with disarming elegance.
