Watches & Wonders 2025: The New Nomos Worldtimer Is A Sporty Spin On A Classic Complication

I’ve always felt that Nomos doesn’t get the attention it deserves. Too often, the brand is met with indifference — not because of a lack of quality, but because it sits at a very crowded price point. As a result, it constantly gets lumped into the “value proposition” category, which I think sells them short. Nomos produces high-quality, in-house movements and has consistently delivered on both design and execution.

Another thing that often gets overlooked is their identity. Sure, they’re easily labeled as “Bauhaus” watches — clean, minimal, restrained — but there’s so much more to them. Unlike many brands chasing vintage trends or borrowing from brutalism and modernist aesthetics, Nomos has carved out a lane of its own. They’ve stuck to their guns, and, in true German fashion, the engineering is flawless.

This year at Watches & Wonders, Nomos is taking two of what I consider their best models and mashing them together into what I can only call a “super model.” I’m sure someone out there will come up with a catchier name, but the concept is simple: The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer blends the sporty Club case with the functionality of the Zurich Worldtimer. These are two watches that live on opposite ends of Nomos’ lineup, now fused into a middle-of-the-catalog piece that absolutely slaps.

The Watch

The watch is offered in silver and blue dial variants. It measures 40mm across and 9.9mm thick but let’s just call it 10mm. I get that watchmaking is all about precision, but seeing that .1mm in the press release made me roll my eyes a bit.

The silver dial version features a galvanized, rhodium-plated dial with a sunburst finish. Hour numerals and markers are treated with white Super-LumiNova. The city ring is blue, with a 24-hour display in blue and red to indicate day and night. The blue dial version, on the other hand, features blue sunburst dial (duh) and a blue city ring and a matching 24-hour display in light and dark blue tones.

The 24 hour display sits in a 3 o’clock subdial and shows the time back home while you work the pusher at 2 o’clock to move the world timer city ring around the outside of the watch. If you have ever worked the Zurich worldtimer you will find the functionality very similar. Despite the similarity in how the watch functions, this model has an entirely new in-house movement.

Both models also come on a steel Club Sport bracelet and offer 100 meters water resistance. The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer will also come in six limited edition color ways along with the two regular models.

The Movement

Normally, I leave the movement deep-dives and romancing over escapements to Jack and Tim, but this time, I’ve got to jump in. Nomos is rolling out an entirely new automatic caliber, and it’s worth taking a moment to appreciate it. Before we get into the details of the DUW 3202, let’s rewind and look at the movement that paved the way.

The original Nomos Zürich Worldtimer was powered by the DUW 5201 caliber. If you’ve ever wondered (I know I did), DUW stands for Deutsche Uhrenwerke, which literally translates to “German watch movement.” It’s Nomos’ way of letting you know this is a true in-house movement. I know “in-house” gets tossed around a lot in the watch world, but in this case, it’s the real deal.

The Zurich Worldtimer.

The DUW 5201 made a splash when it launched because it was the first movement to feature Nomos’ proprietary “swing system” — their in-house escapement design. According to Nomos at the time, this was something almost no other watchmaker in the world was pulling off at scale. CEO Uwe Ahrendt even compared it to landing on the moon. The German newspaper FAZ went so far as to say that “even Apple were keeping a close eye” on the small Glashütte brand.

The swing system is often touted as Nomos’ claim to fame, and for good reason. It’s their in-house escapement, something very few brands can say.

Nomos’ swing system is an in-house produced lever, balance spring, and escape wheel, but it is not a new design or new escapement. It beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour, which some argue may reduce long-term wear on components, so that is an added bonus. But really, it’s less about the beat rate and more about the prestige of having a fully in-house movement built from the ground up. It is important to note that they do not make their own mainsprings, so you can’t wholeheartedly say it gives them full movement independence.

The DUW 5201, which powered the Zürich Worldtimer, was never officially COSC-certified, but Nomos consistently claimed it met chronometer standards.

DUW 3202

Now, with the DUW 3202, Nomos has taken things a step further. This new caliber trims down the movement’s height from 5.7mm to just 4.8mm, allowing for a slimmer, more wearable profile that fits perfectly inside the Club case. It also bumps the jewel count from 26 to 37 and squeezes all that engineering into a compact 31mm diameter — a lot of tech in a small package. Interestingly, there’s no mention (yet) of the 3202 meeting chronometer standards.

Aesthetically, the movement is finished with a striking rotor featuring a gold globe motif. And under the hood, you’ll still find that signature swing system with its instantly recognizable blue balance spring. With a 42-hour power reserve and serious technical credentials, the DUW 3202 is an impressive achievement — and frankly, a bit of a value punch to the face when you consider what you’re getting.

My Take

This watch is really well done and fills a clear gap in the Nomos lineup. That said, I do think they may have missed the mark a bit on the sizing — though, to be fair, that opinion can change once I have the watch on my wrist. From my experience with the Club models, the 40mm case tends to wear a little large. But that’s based on the older Club references, which had much simpler dials. With this new worldtimer layout, the extra dial real estate might actually make the 40mm case feel just right. A 38mm version could’ve ended up too cramped. So, the jury’s still out until I see it in person.

That said, when you combine a world time complication with sporty functionality in a case under 10mm thick, you’re entering GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) territory. Despite my general disdain for the moniker, I do love this category of watches, as I have never been someone who thinks of collecting as a quantitative sport. That’s part of why I find this watch so interesting — it blends complication and wearability in a way that feels genuinely useful, not just technical flexing.

I really see this as the start of something bigger. Expanding the Club line with added complications is exactly the kind of move Nomos needed to make. Overall, this is a strong, well-executed release that gives the brand a lot of room to build on.

Still, Nomos is doing what they do best: making a watch that’s highly wearable, thoughtfully designed, beautifully engineered, and distinctly their own. It’s a piece that checks almost every box a discerning collector could want in something they’ll actually wear several days a week.

Specs

The new watch features a 40mm stainless steel, tripartite case with a domed sapphire crystal and blue anti-reflective coating on both sides. It has a screw-down sapphire caseback, measures 9.9mm thick, and is water-resistant to 10 ATM.

The dial is offered in two variations: one in galvanized, rhodium-plated silver with a sunburst finish, white Super-LumiNova hour markers, a blue city ring, and a 24-hour display in blue and red; the other in galvanized blue with the same sunburst finish, white Super-LumiNova markers, a matching blue city ring, and a 24-hour display in light and dark blue. Rhodium-plated hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova, along with rhodium-plated seconds and 24-hour hands, complete the dial.

Powering the watch is the automatic DUW 3202 caliber, featuring world time and 24-hour displays, a 42-hour power reserve, and measuring 4.8mm in height and 31mm in diameter. The watch is paired with a Club Sport bracelet with a 20mm lug width. Priced at $4,720. For more information visit Nomos.