The latest version of the 37.02 Minimalist features a new case, and a limited production yearly calendar. The first Ming watches were launched in 2017 and since then, until recently, the basic formula has been the same: limited editions, with each having a distinctive execution while at the same time retaining certain specific design cues...

A stellar dial for a football star. If you had asked me whether or not Breitling had watches with meteorite dials in their history, I’d have said yes without hesitation. I also would have said yes without checking, and lo and behold, I’d be wrong – Breitling says that they have never used the material...

The final series of the Balancier Contemporain series heralds a sea change at Greubel Forsey. Greubel Forsey is known for many things – for those of us who are fans of slightly mad-scientist technical experimentation in pushing the boundaries of precision in mechanical timekeeping, it’s their inclined balance, multi-axis, and high speed tourbillons that have...

Breitling’s B31 Top Time is a topnotch daily driver. Breitling’s Top Time watches have been many things to many people since the brand first launched the Top Time collection in 1964. The collection started out as an effort by Breitling to make chronographs for a wider audience, and the designs had a broader appeal than...

A serenely beautiful take on the world time complication, from the watchmaker’s watchmaker. The Reverso is a simple idea which lends itself to an almost infinite number of variations. Since 1931, the Reverso has been a vehicle for every complication imaginable, and its reversible case has made it possible to create variations on classic complications...

The Black Bay collection’s usually all about heritage, but the Carbon 25 is Black Bay in the future tense. Although the Tudor Black Bay models started out as a sort of refresh of well known and much beloved Tudor Submariner design details (especially the snowflake hands, first used on the Tudor Submariner references 7016 and...

The latest in the 20.01 chronograph series from MING has a dial inspired by the world of science fiction – created with techniques from science fact. The 20.01 series of chronographs from MING are distinguished by their case design and construction, with “flying blade” lugs and a case which was designed around the MING version...

Color in fine watchmaking is usually a subtle element, but Moser’s putting saturated dials at center stage. When last we checked in with H. Moser & Cie, the company was doing what it does best: confound expectations. The launch of the Moser X Alpine Mechanic’s and Driver’s watches saw the company pair its signature Agengraphe...

The caliber DUW 6101 – it’s smarter than it looks, and it looked pretty smart to begin with. Every once in a while in this business, you get a reminder that not only don’t you know everything, but you have actually missed something you should have noticed the first time around. So it is with...

A dark take on a classic Zenith design. “Defy” sounds like a name that might have come out of some serious focus grouping at a modern watch brand (it raises so many questions. What is being defied? And by whom?) but the original name and the original design at Zenith goes all the way back...

Everything old is new again, again. The dive watch is obsolete, and has been for many years – that is, it’s obsolete as a primary instrument for recreational and professional divers, both of whom rely on digital dive computers. However, dive watches have gone on to have a very robust second life as backups to...

Is a Fifty in 38mm the Fifty Fathoms you’ve been waiting for? The first Blancpain Fifty Fathoms I can remember seeing and wanting was the 50th Anniversary model, which was launched in 2003 in a 40.3mm steel case, and with, for the first time, a sapphire bezel; I thought it was a spectacularly beautiful watch...

Everyone’s favorite analog digital watch, now has an open sapphire case, and it’s almost a completely different watch. The original Amida Digitrend was very much the product of its time. Originally released at Basel in 1976, the original Digitrend was an attempt to offer an entry level mechanical analog to the then-more expensive LED quartz...

A new Black Bay 54 that says, tune out and go catch some waves. Tudor introduced the first Black Bay 54 in 2023, and it was widely welcomed as a wearable alternative to the larger Black Bay models, with a 37mm x 11.24mm case, and a design that was meant as a modern re-interpretation of...

The new collection, the first major update since 2017, keeps the connection to Breitling’s first dive watch, fine-tuned for today. Although most of us naturally think of chronographs, and its history as an aviation supplier, when we think of Breitling, the company’s history of course encompasses a much wider range of watches (although technical watchmaking...

Once the world’s thinnest automatic watch, the Ultimate Automatic 910P is in the Goldilocks Zone for ultra thin watchmaking. Ultra thin watchmaking presents so many challenges unique to the genre that arguments have been made (including by yours truly) that it should be considered a category of complicated watchmaking all its own – if not...

Moser shows us once again that we should expect the unexpected. Over the years, Moser has produced a whole range of sophisticated, fascinating simple watches and complications, from unusual and exotic perpetual calendars like the Streamliner Perpetual and the Endeavour Perpetual, to chronographs powered by one of the most advanced chronograph calibers ever designed, to...

Elegant, and exquisitely affordable. The perpetual calendar is of the three classic high complications – the repeater, the perpetual calendar, and the rattrapante chronograph – the one that casts its gaze furthest afield. Perpetual calendars exist for one reason, which is that there are not a whole number of 24 hour days in a tropical...