The History of Time: The Return of Czapek
Many legacy watchmaking brands attempt to make a comeback, but few manage to pull it off. Czapek has become one of the most resounding success stories of recent years. How did they do it?
When a brand is first launched, predicting how long it will last is always an uncertain business, and Czapek was no exception. When the name was resurrected from the depths of obscurity in 2012 with the aim of carving out a niche in present-day watchmaking, most observers were both curious and circumspect. Ten years on, the number of collectors and its support base have both grown considerably—enough to ensure its future prospects are secure.
Therein lies one of Czapek’s distinctive features: right from its official launch in 2015, the firm allowed generous benefactors, committed both as collectors and as financial backers, to take out a stake in the firm—a kind of controlled crowdfunding, albeit very different from the more fragile Kickstarter variety.
The initial round of fundraising made it possible to develop a first model, blessed with just the right balance of tradition and modernity—the Quai des Bergues. Right out of the gate, in 2016 the first collection since Czapek’s comeback won the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève Public’s Choice prize. Featuring an enamel dial with seconds, day, and power reserve displays, the piece revived the history of watchmaker François Czapek and propelled the company to the heart of Geneva fine watchmaking’s holy of holies in record time.
The Patek Philippe Connection
The Quai des Bergues can be customized with dial lettering and a choice of case and strap. With this first watch, Czapek restored the fortunes of its prestigious name. As it happens, the original firm had close connections to another renowned brand, too: Patek Philippe. Historically, Czapek was the outcome of a meeting between François Czapek and Antoine Norbert de Patek: two Polish émigrés who combined their talents to produce pocket watches—and later, wristwatches that were to change the world of watchmaking.
The surname of watchmaker Antoine Norbert de Patek went on to be coupled with that of Adrien Philippe in the name of the renowned Geneva-based firm that produced the first Patek Philippe manufacture watches. Watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and François Czapek worked together for six years running, each giving the other the benefit of their expertise in fine watchmaking, crafting timepieces in the days before they would become referred to as ‘manufacture’ watches.
Czapek arrived in Switzerland in 1832. In 1839, ‘Patek, Czapek & Cie’ came to be and lasted for a six-year period, after which the two watchmakers decided to go their separate ways. Czapek & Cie was founded on May 1st, 1845, and made timepieces for Napoleon Bonaparte amongst others. The firm opened establishments in Geneva, Warsaw, and on Place Vendome in Paris—names that now grace its present-day collections. Indeed, it has since been established that by opening a store on Place Vendome, Czapek became the first-ever watchmaker to be present at what has become a legendary address for luxury goods in Paris.
Modern Times
The ‘Quai des Bergues’ marked the revived Czapek’s inaugural flight—and the arrival on the watchmaking scene of its smiling standard-bearer, Xavier de Roquemaurel. Warm, friendly, and approachable, de Roquemaurel has taken an unusually transparent approach to promote his brand. He very soon grasped the importance of being close to his customers, allowing them to choose from a wide range of metals, straps, and dials, or even customize their watches with a secret grand feu enamel signature.
The Quai des Bergues is characterized by its clever day-of-the-week indicator and accompanying power reserve display. The presence of an entirely original movement, designed by and for Czapek, combined with a highly attractive launch price, won over collectors already drawn by Xavier de Roquemaurel’s good humor and enthusiasm—further evidence, if any is required, of how important the CEO’s personality is for a wholly-independent firm, as Max Büsser, Kari Voutilainen, François-Paul Journe, and the Grönefeld brothers also attest.
Broadening Out The Range
The Quai des Bergues collection has now expanded—and been joined by the ‘Place Vendome’, ‘Faubourg de Cracovie’, and ‘Antarctique’ collections. Today there’s a Quai des Bergues tourbillon, as well as an Antarctique split-second chronograph. All boast a fine watchmaking movement created exclusively for Czapek; and as before, the dial, strap, and case of each watch can be customized, allowing future owners to add something of their own history to their timepieces.
More recently, the brand has undertaken the difficult exercise of the three-hand watch, at once the simplest and most demanding in terms of design. The firm’s ‘Passage de Drake’ balances the traditional three central hands and date window at 6 o’clock with the modernity of an imposing, clear-cut case and a distinctive, highly original single-link steel strap with alternating polished and satin surfaces.
The launch of the piece was made possible by subscriptions from 200 private collectors, who brought in the necessary funds. The achievement confirms Czapek’s status as an exclusive Maison that’s close to its customers—and attentive to their opinions and support. It’s a rare instance of growth that’s both crowdfunded and controlled, offering each buyer a host of customization possibilities. Some may have doubted the ability of this type of business model to generate growth and sales, but Czapek has proved them wrong—and blazed a new trail that combines the very best of creativity with good business.