Starting With Panerai, Pt.II: OJ Whatley Talks Case Size, Strap Options

• • After deciding between automatic/manual-wind and date/no date, new choices can narrow the search.

• • OJ advises that case size is the next logical consideration.

• • Panerai watches tend to wear smaller than their nominal “case size” due to sound ergonomics.

• • Size is a style and comfort consideration in equal measure; buy what makes you feel and look good.

• • Do not fixate on a strap when selecting a Panerai; these are easy to swap.

• • Moreover, OJ notes that no luxury watch brand enjoys as many aftermarket strap options as Panerai.

Few watches electrify observers and inspire collector passion like the timepieces of Officine Panerai. The brand’s military heritage and “form-follows-function” mantra first captured the public imagination in the late 1990s –  and never let go. Big, bold, authentic, and audacious, Panerai is equal parts watchmaker and lifestyle.

But the same intrigue that drives interest in the Swiss-Italian house leads to a common question among prospective “Panerisi”; where do I start? Naturally, start with an expert guide.

OJ Whatley turned his passion for the Panerai universe to build the global leader in buying, selling, and trading of luxury watches. From advising first-time Panerai buyers to building his own collection to catching counterfeiters red-handed, OJ has done it all. In this, the second installment of a series on choosing a first Panerai, OJ shares his insights – and enthusiasm – with new admirers of the watchmaker from Firenze.

After fundamental choices like auto/manual movement and date/no date have been made, it’s time to examine questions of case size, case material, and the role of strap choice in Panerai ownership.

When shopping for a Panerai, size matters. OJ stresses the primacy of case size when shopping for any luxury watch, but he adds that size questions assume new “dimensions” when shopping for a first Panerai. Often, new buyers experience anxiety regarding the risk of acquiring excessively large or excessively small watches, and a hands-on test often decides the matter.

But there are a few guidelines that can steer first-time a Paneristi towards the best choice for him.

First, OJ advises each shopper to consider personal tastes in style. Assuming a watch is fits the wrist, case size can be used to tailor the desired image and appearance. Because most Panerai cases are “cushion” shaped, or rounded squares, they tend to wear smaller than equivalent round or tonneau watches. Panerai lugs are short, tapered, and designed to plant a large instrument securely on an average-sized wrist.

OJ offers practical guidance on focusing the search:

“Figure out what your wrist size is, then explore the models in that case size. With over 350 documented models issued over 21 years, Panerai gives collectors options. Narrow that to a smaller block that incorporates only your target case size, and your perspective changes. Suddenly, the overwhelming task becomes focused, productive, and fun.”

If you generally wear a 40mm round watch and consider a 44mm excessive, it is likely that a 44mm Luminor will fit comfortably. By the same token, those who wear 45mm round watches or larger should find 47mm Radiomir “1940” and 47mm Luminor “1950” cases to be quite comfortable. Panerais fit differently than conventional watches, and the upshot generally permits users to size-up without a negative impact on fit or comfort.

Since Panerai tends to stick with a stubby case profile, OJ advises that Panerai watches “scale well” in the sense that the essential look is not warped in the shift from 40 to 44 to 47mm, for example.  Some mid-size sports watches lose their balance of proportion when the details of the dial and bezel are compressed or expanded to cope with different case sizes within the model range.

This is rarely the case with Panerai; a 40mm PAM00244 Luminor GMT on a smaller arm preserves the impact and presence of a 44 or 47mm watch on a larger wrist.

OJ offers a final note on case size; consider the materials that are available. Officine Panerai has offered titanium models and model derivatives since the late 1990s, and these watches take the ergonomic excellence of the Panerai cushion case to a new plane of comfort. Titanium is a rugged metal that offers the strength of steel with mass approaching that of aluminum. Eyes closed, a titanium 44mm Panerai Luminor such as the PAM00351 Luminor Marina 1950 will wear *much* smaller than its raw dimensions imply.

Those who prefer the heft of a classical luxury watch also have options; tantalum, gold, and platinum Panerai models are available in the pre-owned marketplace.

Straps are a preoccupation of veteran and prospective Paneristi alike. However, OJ’s guidance for the first-time Panerai buyer is to downplay the importance of original equipment straps.

“I always recommend to my clients that they forget about the strap. Don’t ever fall in love with the strap, because the great thing about Panerai is the interchangeability of the straps, and you have a galaxy of options. In my experience, the majority of Panerai enthusiasts swap out their straps an average of 2-3 times per month, and that’s a conservative estimate.”

No watch brand on the market – new or ancient – offers collectors the range of options that Panerai presents to the collector. Even better, most Panerai models feature jewelers’ tools for swapping straps, quick-release lugs, or both. In other words, those new to Panerai should consider the choice a matter of case size, shape, and material. Given the ease of a strap swap, the core timepiece is the focus.

The next installment of OJ Whatley’s introduction to Panerai will explore the influence of features and complications on one’s choice and the paramount importance of “buying your seller” before buying a watch… stay tuned.