Rolex GMT-Master 16753: Transitional Two Tone Classic

The early 1980s were a time of transition for Rolex as a watchmaker and a cultural symbol. This Rolex GMT-Master 16753 embodies both currents of transition: mechanical and philosophical.

By 1982, the approximate production date of this Rolex GMT-Master 16753, Rolex was beginning to embrace its shift from a supplier of professional implements (the GMT-Master was developed in 1954 for Pan-Am pilots) to a purveyor of status symbols and luxury lifestyle accessory. The two-tone stainless steel and 18-karat yellow gold GMT-Master was the embodiment of this shift.

The 16753’s yellow-gold-and-steel hybrid construction literally split the difference between Rolex’s blue-collar diver/military/explorer heritage and its dawning gilded age. A matte black “nipple dial” with applied gold indexes sets the tone with reserved upscale ambiance.

The all-black bezel presents a striking contrast to the traditional “root beer” and “Pepsi” two-tone pilot setups, but its chromatic coherence and sharp gold highlights are the perfect match for this Rolex GMT Master’s complementary bezel arrangement.

Rolex seals the “nipple dial” with a charming relic of the original GMT-Master: a Plexiglas crystal. The unique distortion effects of the acrylic compound never hinder legibility, but their characteristic warping at extreme angles is a romantic throwback to the mid-century heyday of the GMT in the sky and Rolex Oyster-cased dive watches in the seas below.

Transitional engineering comes to the fore in the Rolex GMT-Master 16753. This family of the first five-digit reference GMT-Masters ran from 1980-1988, and it introduced a number of historic refinements to the line. First, the movement – caliber 3075 – was upgraded from the veteran 1575 to include a convenient quick-set date and a modern beat rate of 28,800 VpH (from 19,800). Second, the Rolex GMT-Master’s Oyster case was revised and upgraded to 100 meters of water resistance from the previous rating of 50 meters.

While the Rolex GMT Master 16753 was available on Jubilee or Oyster bracelets, the example seen here features the sportier and more rugged three-link Oyster model. Two-tone luxury color combinations were a pop culture phenomenon during the 1980s and a major driver of Rolex’s success, and this example uses the power of gold to good effect. Rolex’s deft melding of silver steel, yellow gold, and black as a counterbalance ensure that the GMT-Master 16753 maintains its appeal while other 80s icons have fallen by the wayside.

See this Rolex GMT-Master 16753 transitional two-tone model in high-resolution images at The 1916 Company.