Questions to Ask Before Buying a Watch

Buying a new watch can be, without a doubt, a daunting proposition. Between YouTube, Instagram, group chats, forums and strongly opinionated watch writers the total tonnage of information available to watch enthusiasts could stun a team of oxen in its tracks. All this is to say, making the right purchase has never been more challenging.

Gone are the days of going to your local jewelry store and picking a watch from the case to wear for the rest of your life (at least they are for anyone who would be reading this article). But that doesn’t mean that finding the right watch should be impossible. In fact, thanks to the sheer number of watches available on the market today, finding the perfect watch is doable — though it may take a little time and work.

So, to help cut through the noise, I spoke with several members of The 1916 Company’s global team to get some insight on the questions our experts recommend you ask before making your next purchase.

One Question to Rule Them All

As I spoke to our diverse team of traders and client advisors to prepare this story, there was one answer that came before all others: How do you intend to wear the watch?

This is a hugely important question, and it’s one that often gets overlooked in the name of novelty. The excitement of finding that next piece can be captivating and the prospect of having something different can easily make you ignore the broader context or day-to-day realities of your own life.

A saturation diver, for example, likely doesn’t lead a lifestyle conducive to a delicate mid-century dress watch. By the same token, a corporate executive wearing a suit every day probably doesn’t need a 50mm titanium dive watch with a helium escape valve.

This is, of course, not to say that either of them shouldn’t want, own or wear a piece slightly out of sync with their lifestyles but rather that it should be a consideration. Take the time to think about how often you are likely to wear a particular watch, as well as what settings or activities you might encounter. It may not dissuade you but, if there’s the chance it might, it is certainly worth a moment of reflection.

Where does this watch fit in my collection?

Okay, I will admit that this question falls relatively in line with the first. That said, there is a subtle distinction and, if watch writers are known for anything, it’s diving headfirst into subtle distinctions.

Now, I should preface by saying that asking yourself “Where does a watch fit in my collection?” is a question that assumes a certain reality — namely that one already has a collection of watches to consider. So this may not be a question that is hugely relevant at the early stages of your collection journey, when you’re still sorting out what you like or what sort of collection you’d like to build — if you even plan on building one. But, if you find yourself pot-committed, it is worth thinking about the broader context of your collection as you mull over a purchase.

Think about how and where you will wear a watch, and then look at your collection and see if you have something that fills that slot. If you only wear a sports watch once or twice a week, and you already have one that you love wearing, you may not find that a new piece gets the wrist time you want it to, or you may stop wearing a watch you already love.

Answering this question can be difficult and can yield hugely different thoughts and answers from person to person. A collector with a passion for dive watches may want a wide-ranging assortment of subtly different options from which to choose, even if he can’t wear them all the time, whereas another collector may decide they want one really great example that they can always come back to. Neither answer is wrong or right, but most of us do have an answer that feels more in line with how we approach collecting, at least we do if we take the time to consider it.

Why This and Not That

As I said earlier, there are a lot of watches out there. The 1916 Company alone typically has several thousand watches posted for sale at any given time so practical considerations are absolutely worth making.

Do you want a strap or a bracelet? Leather or Rubber? What sort of complications do you want? What sort of movement do you want? How much water resistance do I need? Will this watch need servicing soon? What case metal do I want?

These, and many other questions, are all worth asking yourself but they are not worth torturing yourself. Straps can be changed, watches can be sold, and movements can be serviced if it turns out that the watch you got pushed into the fountain wearing at a reunion didn’t have quite enough water resistance (this is in no way based on a true story…).

But, thinking through your answers to some of these questions quickly at the front end can save time and hassle down the line. You might be surprised by the small details that become really important to you.

One detail that is less small is what make of watch to buy. After all, beyond a certain level, every watch is great. In the same way that basically every car on the market these days is pretty good, so is basically every watch. So, ask yourself why you want one brand over another. Heritage, aesthetics, technical specs and a whole host of other factors can change how a brand is experienced and whether it’s the right one for you.

The Value Proposition

Buying a watch is a big purchase. Mechanical watches in particular are a luxury. But that doesn’t mean value shouldn’t still play into your decision-making. How you define value is up to you, but there are certainly some questions you can ask to help sort it out.

What’s the retail price of the watch? How does that compare to similar pieces from other brands, or in some cases other eras (after all, arguably the biggest competitor to modern Rolex is vintage Rolex)? What does the watch trade at on the secondary market? Is the piece discontinued? How many are out there? Was it a limited edition? Limited production? Made in such staggering quantities that you could theoretically replace currency with them due to its ubiquity?

All of these questions affect how one could perceive value in a watch purchase. I will say this is one of those places where I really can’t offer strong advice — I am not a financial advisor, nor do I have a comprehensive understanding of anyone else’s personal finances. Some may feel that the premium you have to pay to get a Rolex right when you want it is worth it, some balk at the concept of paying over retail, that math is up to you.

Buy What Makes You Happy

This last bit of advice comes straight from me. Does the watch make you happy?

This is a great hobby. It offers access to an incredible community and a never-ending series of rabbit holes into which to dive. Watches take up less space than cars, they can last a lifetime and they’re wicked cool. Above all of this, watches are fun. This hobby is fun. And the watches you choose for yourself should make you happy.

Many thanks to C’Quon Gottlieb, Hans Singer, George Mayer, Sami Lachhab, Armand Johnston and Viki Garcia for their help in making this article possible.