Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT Review: Vintage Style Meets Modern Adventure
A closer look at how Nivada’s latest GMT balances classic design with rugged functionality for today’s traveler.
I was once asked when I was the happiest—a question I usually hate. It’s broad, vague, and often posed by people more interested in sharing their own answers. But this time was different.
Sure, there are those moments when you look around and, in Kurt Vonnegut’s words, think, “If this isn’t nice, I don’t know what is.” Fleeting seconds of bliss often involve my wife, a campfire, and perhaps a generous pour of whiskey. But pinpointing the happiest moment? Happiness feels too fluid for absolutes, and anyone who’s lived as an adult in this too-big world knows there’s rarely a single peak.
Still, when asked this open-ended question, I answered without hesitation: “I’m happiest when I get through airport security and sit down at an airport bar for a beer.” There’s something about that first sip, the cold barley soup, that eases my travel anxieties. It signals the start of a journey—to breathe new air, feel new earth beneath my feet, and go somewhere. Each trip is a fresh lesson, a small life of its own, filled with moments that dance and drift.
The reason for this anecdote is because the new release from Nivada Grenchen and vintage revivalist Guilliame Laidet is the perfect travel companion from the airport bar to the alleys of Marrakech.
A Brief History
The original Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT was released in the early 70s with an AR-1146 movement, which allowed the 24-hour GMT hand to move in sync with the hour-hand (and didn’t allow for independent adjustment of the 24-hour hand), making it a true “pilot’s watch.” This is because the GMT is built on what would have been the day module for this ebauche. This differs from the modern version, a “caller” GMT which allows for a separate setting of the hour hand.
Nivada took meticulous care in crafting every detail of the original Antarctic GMT, going above and beyond by encasing their watch in a dive-ready case developed by Ervin Piquerez S.A. (EPSA). This distinctive case design includes two crowns: one for adjusting the 24-hour bezel to track a second time zone, and another for setting the watch’s functions.
EPSA, celebrated for its exceptional quality and water resistance, introduced its innovative “Super Compressor” cases, which utilized depth pressure to reinforce the seal. As a diver went deeper, the increased pressure compressed the case further against the gasket, enhancing its water-tight integrity. Combining the GMT movement with a dive-ready case is a formula for success, albeit short-lived during its initial run.
Produced between the early and mid-1970s, the Antarctic GMT saw a limited production run, cut short by the onset of the quartz crisis. Its rarity makes it a true gem in the world of vintage watches.
The Watch
The modern Nivada Grenchen GMT has been thoughtfully sized, with a 36mm diameter and an 11.1mm thickness that lands perfectly in what many enthusiasts consider the “Goldilocks” zone. This sizing gives the watch impressive wrist presence due to its thickness, without feeling overpowering, maintaining a balance that’s both comfortable and striking. The stainless steel case, paired with a brushed finish, delivers vintage-inspired cues, bringing a touch of classic appeal to this contemporary re-edition. Nivada has even introduced both black and tropic dial options (with the later limited to 99 pieces), each echoing the original’s iconic style while offering some variation for today’s collector.
I have to say the black dial variation is the winner for me, but that is mainly to do with the feeling that faux patina in any form feels like borrowed valor.
Under the hood, the GMT is powered by the dependable Soprod C125 GMT movement. Although some may see it as a “generic” automatic GMT, this movement has gained recognition, being used by reputable brands like Baltic, Serica, Zodiac, Lorier, and Oak & Oscar. It’s a strong performer with a proven track record, similar in construction to the ETA 2824 but slightly smaller—an ideal choice for a watch that aims to deliver both reliability and an authentic vintage feel.
The watch’s design details add subtle flair without overwhelming its classic look. The “block red” GMT hand is a key feature, adding a pop of color to the dial while offering effortless tracking of a second time zone. This vibrant element, paired with the yellow and black 24-hour chapter ring, gives the watch just enough visual interest to stand out without clashing with any outfit.
Nivada also included a Plexiglass insert on the internal bezel for the second-time-zone tracking. The matte black dial, contrasted by the colorful 24-hour bezel, immediately catches the eye, while the thick Plexiglass crystal heightens the retro appeal without the distortion issues often seen in thicker sapphire crystals.
My Take
It is no secret I have been a fan of Nivada Grenchen since its “relaunch” and previously covered the evolution of Guilliame Laidet’s career.
The new Nivada Grenchen GMT is a standout re-edition that captures the spirit of the original, blending vintage charm with modern functionality. Its updated movement performs admirably, making it a reliable choice for today’s globe-trotters. As a true pilot’s watch, it’s the perfect jet-setting companion—subtle enough to fly under the radar.
If I have any gripe it is the 5ATM of water resistance. This watch aesthetically and historically (due to the super compressor case style) is a sports watch and to not provide more water resistance feels like a miss. A small miss, as this is not classified as a “dive watch” but still, I would at least like a version where I won’t have to worry about the watch if I happen to take an impromptu dip into the Charles River (you never know).
Priced at $1,600, this watch offers exceptional value, especially for those who appreciate vintage-inspired design. The classic look is bound to impress even the most discerning watch enthusiasts. Nivada has already established itself as a versatile brand with a solid lineup of chronographs and integrated bracelet steel sports watches, and the addition of this GMT fills an essential gap in its catalog. It’s a model that shows Nivada’s continued commitment to versatility and quality, making this GMT a well-rounded choice for both seasoned collectors and newcomers alike.
I have yet to handle these watches in person, and one thing I’ve learned over the years in watch collecting is that watches are best experienced firsthand. To provide an honest review, you need to engage all your senses. Until I can hold this piece in hand, I’ll say that this release excites me—it combines one of my favorite vintage revival brands with my favorite complication in an affordable, and most importantly, wearable size.
The Nivada Antarctic GMT features a 36mm diameter and 11.1mm thickness case made of brushed 316L stainless steel, with applied silver-tone indexes enhanced by SLC3 lume. It has a 20x16mm strap size and is powered by the automatic Soprod C125 movement, offering central hours, minutes, sweeping seconds, an independent GMT hand, and a date function with a 42-hour power reserve. The watch has a Plexiglass crystal, an engraved penguin on the caseback, and is water-resistant to 5 ATM. The retail price is $1,600 USD, 1,400 CHF, or 1,500 EUR, subject to exchange rates. For more information go to nivadagrenchenofficial.com