Introducing The Tudor Black Bay 54 ‘Lagoon Blue’

Tudor introduced the first Black Bay 54 in 2023, and it was widely welcomed as a wearable alternative to the larger Black Bay models, with a 37mm x 11.24mm case, and a design that was meant as a modern re-interpretation of the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922, which was launched in 1954 and whose launch year lent itself to the name of the new model. Despite the smaller size and the vintage design codes which distinguish the Black Bay dive watches from the modern, technical dive watches that make up the Pelagos family, including the new Pelagos Ultra 1000M, the Black Bay 54 remains a fully spec’d dive watch, with 200 meter water resistance, a one way 60 click rotating bezel, and copious amounts of lume, as well as the Kenissi manufactured caliber MT5400. This movement shares the same architecture as other Tudor/Kenissi calibers, including a silicon balance spring and a long (70 hours, in this case) power reserve, and whilt the MT5400 is not a Master Chronometer/METAS certified movement, its silicon balance spring gives it considerable resistance to magnetic interference, it is nonetheless COSC certified and adjusted by Tudor to -2/+4 seconds per day (which is a closer spec than the COSC standard of -4/+6 seconds per day).

In short, the Black Bay 54 models give you modern reliability and durability, as well as modern precision (I’ve test driven a number of modern Tudor watches, both Master Chronometer and standard Chronometer spec and they are almost boringly consistent, showing little variation in daily rate even over long periods of time) along with considerable vintage charm. The latest Black Bay 54, the “Lagoon Blue” is a little less directly vintage adjacent, having been designed as a bright, cheerfully charming timepiece for sun, sand, and surf set.

The new Lagoon Blue is a 37mm watch in stainless steel, with the same roster of respectable specs as the previous Black Bay 54, including water resistance as well as all the advantages of the caliber MT5400. The Lagoon Blue is a fairly major departure from the Black Bay 54 M79000N-0001. The bezel on the Lagoon Blue is mirror polished and engraved with non-luminous numbers and markers, although there’s still a lume pip at the zero/60 mark, and instead of the three link across bracelet with rivets found on the M79000N-0001, there is a five link across bracelet, with a T-fit adjustable clasp and mirror polished middle links.

The Lagoon Blue is a little bit of a surprise, given the resolutely historical presence of the first Black Bay 54, but I don’t think it’s necessary to read anything into it – it’s just a modern take on a vintage design that’s less intended to honor the past, than use it as a jumping off point. This is a vacation watch – not just in a literal sense, but also symbolically; it  doesn’t ask you to regard it with somber seriousness and it doesn’t ask you to take yourself to seriously either. It’s nice sometimes to take a break from the weighty world of connoisseurship and just have a little fun in life. The fact that this is a go-anywhere watch that you don’t have to worry about while you’re taking a little break from life’s obligations, just makes it easier to enjoy.

I always think a little bit, when I write about a watch like this (because speaking of seriousness, I’m you know, a serious watch guy) about a scene in the novel, “Smiley’s People” when the aging spy George Smiley, on a quest for revenge against his old foe Karla, meets with a nightclub owner in Hamburg who speeds him on to his next destination – the owner is a serious guy too, but his business is fun, and he says to George, in farewell, “Maybe you should have had a little more fun in life.” A solid piece of advice, and apropos for a watch that’s just the thing when the world presses a bit upon you and you realize you need to go look at some horizontal horizon lines for a while.

The Tudor Black Bay 54, Lagoon Blue: case, 37mm x 11.24mm, stainless steel, water resistance 200 meters with domed sapphire crystal and screw down crown. Movement, Tudor caliber MT5400,  self-winding with 70 hour power reserve, running in 27 jewels at 28,800 vph/4Hz. Price, $4350. The 1916 Company is proud to be an authorized retailer for Tudor watches. For availability, see the Tudor Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue here.