Insider’s Guide to Panerai Straps

Panerai Straps: What Changed?

As I was reviewing our current inventory of Panerai watches, I was awestruck at the plethora of Panerai straps and buckles available today.  Searching through our inventory of Panerai watches, I was confused and bewildered trying to keep straight which straps went on which watches and with which buckles.

It used be so simple; a 44mm Luminor case fit a 24mm lug width strap and a 40mm Luminor case fit a 22mm lug width strap.  Along those same lines, if the watch was automatic, it was classified as a Contemporaire,” or “contemporary,” style and came on a folding deployment buckle.  If the watch was manual winding, it was classified as “Historici,” or historic, and was sold on a “thumbnail-style” tang buckle.  With an eye towards embracing the original DNA of the vintage Panerai company and making what was old new again, around 2010, Panerai retired the thumbnail-style tang or ardillon buckle and outfitted all of their manual winding historic models with the revered oversized “bottle-opener” pre-Vendome (“pre-V”) style buckles.  On a few historic special edition 47mm Radiomirs, specifically the PAM 232 and 249, Panerai even re-introduced the sewn in pre-V buckle strap reminiscent of the original pre-V Panerai “kodiac” straps.

Making Sense of New Panerai Straps

Welcome to 2016, where all of the rules have changed.  With Panerai’s capabilities expanding to create proprietary movements, the lines have been blurred once again.  Now pretty much all in-house movement Panerai watches are outfitted with the oversized pre-V bottle opener-style tang buckle.  But wait, it seems the more things change, the more they do stay the same.  A few years ago, Panerai released an ultra-thin line of watches called the “Due” and with these watches, Panerai has reverted back to the original thumbnail style tang buckles, regardless of whether the watches are manual winding or automatic.  Clearly, things have changed and become a bit more murky and confusing in the Panerai strap universe. Hopefully, the guides below will help you choose the appropriate strap for your Panerai.

With Panerai widening the breadth of its watch case sizes, designs and models, there have been some changes along with a number of additional strap materials, combinations, colors and styles. The tables below identify the various sizes, dimensions, lug and buckle widths of the various Panerai straps along with a guide as to which straps go with each model, categorized by case size and model.

Materials & Styling

As Panerai expands its arsenal of straps, the growing list of options may seem overwhelming, especially if you’re trying to settle on one to purchase. Check out a few main categories of watch straps and bracelets for recommendations on models and styles.

Classic Straps

Typically, the first thing that comes to mind when discussing Panerai straps is their suite of timeless leather and rubber options. For a sleek leather strap in black or brown, browse their Luminor, Radiomir, and Radiomir 1940 collections—these pieces pair well with almost any dress attire. Or, peruse the same collections for a durable rubber strap option. For example, the Luminor Submersible 100m PAM 87 features a rugged stainless steel case and striking black rubber strap. If you’re really set on a rubber strap, you might also browse their Ferrari selection for a tough watch like this Ferrari Granturismo FER 001.

Colorful Straps

In a recent shift catering to more modern, eclectic tastes, Panerai has released a number of colorful strap options suited for many of their most popular models. From vibrant orange and yellow to eye-catching blue and purple, eight of their newest colorful straps feature a semi-matte finish, while three of them flaunt a shiny, polished finish. These straps are perfect for those who want a versatile statement piece—something that starts a conversation, yet has a way of speaking for itself. And of course, as with all things Panerai, these straps are of utmost quality. They’re made using a procedure called ‘rembordé’ which means that the leather on the upper side is folded and sealed around the edges, providing enhanced resistance to wear and tear.

Handsome Bracelets

Although more rare, you can find a selection of Panerai watches available in metal bracelets for that effortless beach to tuxe look. Each bracelet is meticulously designed to fit the watch case, and guarantees seamless interchangeability if you decide to swap it out for a leather or rubber strap in the future. Panerai metal bracelets can only fit the Luminor and Luminor 1950 models, and metal options include steel and titanium with various finishes.

How to Change a Panerai Strap

It’s not every day that collectors get to swap out their bracelets or straps, so it might seem a bit unnatural to newer Panerai enthusiasts. However, all of their straps are integrated into the case structure and boast extreme flexibility and strength, so it’s completely safe to switch between styles from time to time. However, Panerai’s official website does recommend that a swap or replacement be executed by a watch professional. Here’s a bit about how it’s done using various exclusive systems:

Method #1: Wire Loop System

This patented system is used on the Radiomir, and it gives the strap the ability to be easily replaced. The screws at the corners of the case must be unscrewed which releases the attachments, then the attachments can be inserted on the new strap.

Method #2: Spring Bar System

Timepieces with this system use a special technique—simply push on the pivot (A) in the hole on the side of he lug to remove the strap. To insert a new strap, place the bar into the lug and push on the opposite side of the bar to insert it in the other lug.

Method #3: Interchangeable Strap System

Using pins and push pieces, this system comes with a special tool that allows one to facilitate an easy switch. However, before replacing the strap, remember to detach the two parts of the tool and at the ends of the old strap, then remove the tube, and insert it into the new one.

Method #4: Screw System

Panerai watches with the screw system use a steel screwdriver to swap out the strap. Simply insert the small tip of the screwdriver into the screw head in the hole (A) and unscrew. Again, the tube must be removed from the old strap and placed in the new one to finish.

Method #5: Quick Release System

If you’re someone who hates keeping track of small gadgets, this one’s for you—it requires no small tools. Rather, the strap is removed from the case with some pressure on the back of the strap close to the attachment. Then, it can be fitted again with the same pressure. Make sure the hooks are aligned, clicked, and secured before wearing.

From one Paneristo to another, I wish you happy hunting in the search for your next strap to outfit your Panerai—and, if you’d like more recommendations on how any watch should fit, check out this watch size guide and optimal fit overview.