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Everything You Should Know About Diamonds

The world of diamonds is a fascinating one and probably the most iconic and cherished of all gemstones.

Eleonor Picciotto18 Min ReadJune 6 2024

From their formation deep within the Earth to their symbolic status in culture and history, diamonds have captivated humanity for centuries.

What is a Diamond?

When we think about a diamond in its purest form … the diamond emoji – pictogram or graphic shapes that comes to mind is the round brilliant cut as the most popular and well-known diamond cut. A standard round brilliant cut diamond features 57 facets (or 58 if the culet, the small point at the bottom of the diamond, is included). These facets are meticulously arranged to maximize the diamond’s brilliance and fire. When we talk about crown facets: the crown consists of 33 facets, including the table, which is the largest facet on the top of the diamond. The table facet allows light to enter the diamond and reflect off the pavilion facets. These facets are responsible for reflecting light that enters through the crown facets, creating the diamond’s characteristic sparkle. The girdle is the thin perimeter of the diamond where the crown and pavilion meet. It can be polished and faceted.
Ingredient-wise, a diamond is a mineral composed of pure carbon, crystallized in a cubic arrangement. Known for being the hardest natural substance on Earth, diamonds are highly valued for their brilliance and durability and are graded based on the ‘Four Cs’: carat weight, cut, color, and clarity. These factors determine a diamond’s quality and value.

The History of Diamonds

Diamonds have been revered since ancient times. The earliest diamonds were discovered in India over 2,000 years ago and were used in religious icons and as talismans to ward off evil. They are formed under extreme conditions of high pressure and high temperature between 900°C and 1300°C. These conditions are found at depths of about 140 to 190 kilometers (87 to 118 miles) beneath the Earth’s surface in the mantle. Diamonds are transported from the mantle to the Earth’s surface through deep-source volcanic eruptions. These eruptions create pipes of an igneous rock called kimberlite or, less commonly, lamproite, which serve as conduits for the diamonds. The ascent of diamonds to the surface must be rapid to preserve the high-pressure, high-temperature conditions necessary for diamond stability. A slow ascent would allow diamonds to convert back into graphite, a more stable form of carbon at lower pressures. Diamonds form over a period of millions to billions of years deep within the Earth’s mantle. The exact duration depends on the specific geological conditions and the carbon source available. To go even further in the definition, all these characteristics will determine the color of the diamonds in their purest form : white for starters, but yellow, blue, pink, red or green for the most rare colors, if I may say, but we will get into that later.

De Beers’ Campaign

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In 1947 the reputation of diamonds changed exponentially and to some extent, forever. De Beers launched the most successful and iconic advertising campaign in history with : “A Diamond is Forever.” Created by the N.W. Ayer advertising agency, the slogan “A Diamond is Forever” revolutionized the diamond industry and has had a lasting impact on consumer behavior and cultural perceptions of diamonds. “A Diamond is Forever” was coined by copywriter Frances Gerety. The slogan aimed to convey the enduring nature of diamonds, both in terms of their physical durability and their symbolic representation of eternal love and commitment. The phrase has been used in every De Beers advertisement since its creation, making it one of the longest-running and most recognizable slogans in advertising history. Creating Demand: before the campaign, diamonds were not a common choice for engagement rings, and there was no established tradition of giving diamonds as a symbol of love. The campaign successfully created a strong association between diamonds and romantic commitment, convincing consumers that diamonds were the only suitable choice for engagement rings and other significant milestones.

The reach was global as the campaign was not limited to the United States; it was rolled out globally, adapting to different cultures while maintaining the core message of eternal love and the enduring value of diamonds. De Beers’ marketing efforts included educational programs for jewelers and retailers, ensuring consistent messaging and reinforcing the emotional appeal of diamonds. The campaign played a major role in shaping societal norms and expectations around marriage and engagement, making diamonds an integral part of romantic rituals.  The idea that a diamond’s worth is tied to the depth of one’s love and commitment has become deeply ingrained in many cultures around the world. To the point that it was ruled – the fiancé should spend 3 months’s worth of salary on the engagement ring. Cultural impact on diamonds is huge.

Diamonds hold a significant place in culture and tradition. They are the ultimate symbol of love and commitment, often used in engagement rings and wedding bands. Beyond their role in romance, diamonds are also seen as a symbol of status and luxury, frequently featured in high fashion and Hollywood –> Red Carpets

Famous Diamonds

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The Tiffany Diamond:

128.54 carats – Fancy Yellow from South Africa. Discovered in the Kimberley mine in 1877, the Tiffany Diamond is one of the largest yellow diamonds ever found. It was purchased by Charles Tiffany and has been displayed in various exhibitions, worn by famous figures like Audrey Hepburn and Lady Gaga.

The Hope Diamond:

45.52 carats – Fancy Dark Grayish-Blue from India. Known for its deep blue color and legendary curse, the Hope Diamond is one of the most famous diamonds in the world that has been stolen multiple times.  It has a long history, passing through many hands including Louis the XIV, before Harry Winston donated it to the Smithsonian Institution in 1958, helping to establish its National Gem Collection and where it remains on display.

The Cullinan Diamond:

3,106 carats (rough) Colorless- South Africa. The Cullinan Diamond is the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found. It was cut into several large gemstones, including the Cullinan I (or the Great Star of Africa, 530.2 carats) and the Cullinan II (or the Lesser Star of Africa, 317.4 carats), both of which are part of the British Crown Jewels.

The Regent Diamond:

140.64 carats Colorless from India.The Regent Diamond has adorned the crowns of French monarchs and was also used by Napoleon Bonaparte. It is currently on display at the Louvre Museum in Paris.

The Lesotho Promise:

603 carats (rough) in Lesotho – Found in the Letseng mine in 2006, this diamond was notable for its size and clarity. It was cut into 26 D-color flawless diamonds, the largest being a 76.4-carat pear-shaped diamond.

The Blue Moon of Josephine:

12.03 carats- Fancy Vivid Blue – South Africa. Known for its rare and intense blue color, this diamond was purchased by Hong Kong billionaire Joseph Lau, who renamed it in honor of his daughter.

The Taylor-Burton Diamond:

68 carats – D-IF color (colorless) South Africa: This diamond is famous for its association with actress Elizabeth Taylor and actor Richard Burton, who purchased it in 1969. The diamond was later sold and recut to its current weight.  

The Pink Promise :

14.93 carats (after recut, originally 16.21 carats) – Fancy Vivid Pink from the Argyle Mine. The Pink Promise Diamond is known for its exceptional color and clarity. It was originally a 16.21-carat Fancy Intense Pink diamond but was recut to enhance its color to Fancy Vivid Pink. This diamond is renowned for its stunning beauty and was sold for $32.48 million at a Christie’s auction in 2017, setting a record price per carat for any pink diamond at the time. 

In addition to these famous diamonds, Aristotle Onassis acquired a 40.42-carat marquise diamond from Harry Winston as an engagement ring for Jacqueline Kennedy. These famous diamonds are renowned not only for their size and beauty but also for their intriguing histories and the significant roles they have played in culture and history.

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Sourcing Diamonds:

As of 2024, the majority of the world’s diamonds are sourced from a few key countries. These countries have extensive mining operations and are known for producing high-quality diamonds. Here are the primary sources of diamonds:

Russia: Russia is the world’s largest producer of diamonds by volume. The country is home to several significant diamond mines, including the Udachnaya, Mir, and Aikhal mines operated by ALROSA, the largest diamond mining company in the world.

Botswana: One of the leading diamond producers by value. The Jwaneng mine, operated by Debswana (a joint venture between the government of Botswana and De Beers), is one of the richest diamond mines globally.

Canada Northwest Territories and Ontario: Canada is known for producing high-quality diamonds with excellent transparency. Key mines include the Diavik, Ekati, and Gahcho Kué mines. Canada is  also known  for their ethical and environmentally responsible mining practices.

Australia: Australia was historically known for the Argyle mine, which was famous for its pink and red diamonds. Although the Argyle mine ceased operations in 2020, Australia continues to produce diamonds, primarily yellow diamonds, from the Ellendale mine.

Angola – Catoca mine and several alluvial mines: Angola is a significant producer of diamonds, with the Catoca mine being one of the largest diamond mines in the world. The country produces both kimberlite and alluvial diamonds.

South Africa – Venetia, Finsch, and Cullinan mines: South Africa has a long history of diamond mining and continues to be a major producer. The Venetia mine is currently the largest diamond-producing mine in the country. South Africa is also known for its historical production of some of the world’s most famous diamonds, including the Cullinan diamond.

Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) – Kasai Province: The DRC is one of the largest diamond producers by volume, primarily producing industrial diamonds. However, the country also produces gem-quality diamonds from its extensive alluvial deposits.

Namibia – Offshore and onshore mines: Namibia is renowned for its high-quality marine diamonds extracted from the seabed. Debmarine Namibia, a joint venture between the Namibian government and De Beers, operates offshore mining vessels that recover diamonds from the ocean floor.

Zimbabwe -: Marange fields: Zimbabwe’s Marange diamond fields are known for producing large quantities of diamonds, though they have been controversial due to human rights issues and concerns over conflict diamonds.

While Israel is not a major producer of rough diamonds, it plays a significant role in the global diamond industry as a leading center for diamond cutting, polishing, and trading. Israel is renowned for its advanced diamond cutting and polishing technologies. The country has invested heavily in state-of-the-art equipment and techniques, allowing for precision cutting that enhances the value and beauty of diamonds. Israeli cutters are known for their exceptional precision and ability to maximize the brilliance and fire of diamonds. This expertise has positioned Israel as a leader in producing high-quality polished diamonds that meet the highest industry standards. The Israel Diamond Exchange, located in Ramat Gan near Tel Aviv, is one of the largest and most important diamond trading hubs in the world. It serves as a central marketplace where buyers and sellers from around the globe conduct business.

As of 2024, diamonds are primarily sourced from Russia, Botswana, Canada, Australia, Angola, South Africa, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Namibia, Zimbabwe, and Sierra Leone. Each of these countries contributes significantly to the global diamond supply, with specific regions known for producing high-quality and unique diamonds. Ethical sourcing and sustainable mining practices are increasingly important in the industry, influencing consumer preferences and market dynamics.

Characteristics and Grading Diamonds

Gem-quality diamonds are prized for their clarity and color. Most natural diamonds are colorless to slightly yellow, but they can also exhibit a wide range of colors due to impurities and structural anomalies. Clarity: Clarity refers to the presence of inclusions or blemishes. The fewer the inclusions, the higher the diamond’s clarity grade. Diamonds are graded based on a set of criteria known as the Four Cs: Carat Weight, Cut, Color, and Clarity. These criteria are established by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and are universally recognized in the diamond industry. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is a non-profit organization dedicated to research and education in the field of gemology. It was founded in 1931 by Robert M. Shipley with the mission to protect buyers and sellers of gemstones by setting and maintaining the standards used to evaluate gemstone quality.

1953: The GIA introduced its first diamond grading system. This system laid the groundwork for the modern diamond grading standards used today.

1955: The GIA developed and introduced the International Diamond Grading System™, which standardized the grading of diamonds based on the Four Cs: Carat Weight, Cut, Color, and Clarity.

1960s: The GIA’s diamond grading reports, commonly known as GIA certificates, began to gain widespread recognition and acceptance in the jewelry industry.

The 4 C’s of Diamonds

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1. Carat Weight

Carat weight measures the size of the diamond. One carat is equal to 200 milligrams. We refer to diamonds of 0.10 carat as “10 pointers” for pavé settings.  Carat weight alone does not determine a diamond’s value; the other Cs also play a significant role.

2. Cut

The cut refers to how well the diamond has been shaped and faceted. It influences the diamond’s brilliance, fire, and overall aesthetic appeal. The cut is crucial because it affects how light interacts with the diamond, influencing its sparkle and brightness. Diamonds are cut into various shapes, each with its unique characteristics and appeal. The cut of a diamond affects its brilliance, fire, and overall appearance.

The top 10 and most popular diamond cuts are:

  • Round Brilliant Shape : The most popular and traditional diamond cut, featuring 57 or 58 facets. Preferred for engagement rings and classic jewelry pieces.
  • Princess  Shape A square or rectangular cut with pointed corners, usually featuring 57 or 76 facets. Combines a modern shape with substantial brilliance and fire.
  • Emerald Shape A rectangular cut with stepped facets and an open table, featuring 50 to 58 facets. Emphasizes clarity and color with a unique hall-of-mirrors effect. Chosen for its elegant and sophisticated appearance.
  • Cushion Shape: A square or rectangular cut with rounded corners, also known as a pillow cut, featuring 58 facets. The ultimate Harry Winston engagement ring with micro-pavé. Combines a vintage feel with modern brilliance, known for its soft, romantic look.
  • Oval Shape: An elongated round cut. The oval shape diamond has become quite popular recently as spotted on a few celebrity engagement rings such as Hailey Bieber’s or Blake Lively’s large ovals.
  • Marquise Shape: An elongated shape with pointed ends. Maximizes carat weight and creates the illusion of a larger stone.
  • Pear Shape: A teardrop-shaped cut. The rounder it is at the bottom, the more we refer to it as “pregnant.”
  • Asscher Shape: A square cut with stepped facets and a high crown, similar to the emerald cut. Known for its vintage appeal and deep clarity. Chosen for its Art Deco style and elegant look.
  • Radiant Shape: A rectangular or square cut with trimmed corners, combining the brilliance of round cuts with the lines of emerald cuts, featuring 70 facets. Offers excellent brilliance and fire with a modern shape very sSuitable for those seeking a unique, sparkling cut.
  • Heart Shape:  This cut sSymbolizes love and romance, known for its distinctive shape and brilliance and very much onin trend for the last few years. Chopard had put this cut in fashion as it was Caroline Scheufele’s favorite.

3. Color

Color refers to the presence of any color in a diamond. The less color a diamond has, the higher its value. Colorless diamonds allow more light to pass through, enhancing their brilliance. The GIA color grading scale ranges from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown).

  • D-F: Colorless, with D being the highest grade.
  • G-J: Near colorless, with slight traces of color.
  • K-M: Faint yellow, noticeable color.
  • N-R: Very light yellow, more apparent color.
  • S-Z: Light yellow, easily noticeable color.

4.  Clarity

Clarity assesses the presence of internal (inclusions) and external (blemishes) imperfections in the diamond. Higher clarity grades indicate fewer imperfections, which can affect the diamond’s overall appearance and value. The GIA clarity grading scale include

  • FL (Flawless): No inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification.
  • IF (Internally Flawless): No inclusions, only minor blemishes visible under 10x magnification.
  • VVS1, VVS2 (Very, Very Slightly Included): Minute inclusions difficult to see under 10x magnification.
  • VS1, VS2 (Very Slightly Included): Minor inclusions visible under 10x magnification.
  • SI1, SI2 (Slightly Included): Noticeable inclusions visible under 10x magnification.
    • I1, I2, I3 (Included): Obvious inclusions that may affect transparency and brillianc

Grading diamonds involves a comprehensive evaluation of the Four Cs: Carat Weight, Cut, Color, and Clarity. Each of these factors contributes to the diamond’s overall quality, value, and aesthetic appeal. Understanding these criteria helps consumers make informed decisions when purchasing diamonds, ensuring they select a stone that meets their preferences and budget.

Diamond Certifications

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Most of us have watched the Warner Bros Blood Diamond movie starring the infamous Leonardo Dicaprio and Jennifer Connely. It opened up a channel of discussion on the topic of diamond. Uncut Gems with Adam Sandlers or Nothing Lasts Forever also got to the list of educational features on diamonds.

GIA:  The ultimate certificate. Provides independent, unbiased diamond grading reports. GIA is one of the most respected diamond grading laboratories in the world. Its certificates include detailed information about the diamond’s 4Cs (carat, cut, color, clarity) and sometimes additional characteristics such as fluorescence, polish, and symmetry. A GIA certificate is considered the gold standard in diamond grading, offering buyers assurance of the diamond’s quality and authenticity.

HRD Antwerp (Hoge Raad voor Diamant): Provides diamond certification and education services. HRD Antwerp is Europe’s leading authority on diamond certification. Their reports cover the 4Cs and additional details like laser inscriptions and comments on any treatments. HRD certificates are well-respected, particularly in Europe, providing confidence in the diamond’s quality.

RJC (Responsible Jewellery Council): Sets standards for responsible business practices in the jewelry supply chain. RJC certification ensures that companies adhere to ethical, social, and environmental standards. This includes conflict-free sourcing, fair labor practices, and environmental stewardship. The RJC certification is a mark of a company’s commitment to responsible sourcing and ethical business practices.

Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS): Prevents the trade of conflict diamonds. The Kimberley Process is an international certification scheme that regulates the trade in rough diamonds. Participating countries must meet minimum requirements to certify shipments of rough diamonds as “conflict-free.” The Kimberley Process helps ensure that diamonds sold in the market are not financing violence or human rights abuses.

Rapaport Purpose: Provides diamond pricing and market reports. While not a certification, the Rapaport Price List is widely used in the diamond industry to benchmark diamond prices. Rapaport also offers ethical sourcing services and has grown to be a critical tool for valuing diamonds, ensuring fair pricing and market transparency.

Caring for Your Diamonds

There are many ways to take care of your diamonds … and so many more ways to clean them:.

  1. Ultrasound baths  which: which youyou can have  at home if you are a clean freak … this little machine can be used for glasses, diamonds or any thinganything that requires in depth cleaning.   (although this technique for cleaning jewelry is not recommended for all gemstones or metals.)
  2. In a glass or bowl filled with lukewarm water, adding a few drops of  a mild liquid dish soap, such as Dawn
  3. Let your diamond jewelry soak in for a few minutes and use an old toothbrush to brush off dust, dirt and daily stuff that get stuck onto the metal and stones.
  4. Visit Us for Professional Care: Bring your diamond jewelry to one of our retail locations for cleaning and inspection. Our experts will ensure your pieces shine brilliantly and are in perfect condition.

Rare are the people who genuinely clean their jewelry on a regular basis. And yet, it is so important considering how within a week of daily wear, dust, dirt, soap or cream can be accumulated affecting the sparkle of your stone.

Lab Grown Diamonds and Treatments

Lab-grown diamonds are becoming increasingly popular. These diamonds are created using advanced technological processes that replicate the conditions under which mined diamonds form. Truth being told ,: lLab-grown diamonds have the same physical, chemical, and optical properties as natural diamonds but are often more affordable.

High-Pressure High-Temperature (HPHT) Method: Mimicking Nature: Synthetic diamonds can be created by replicating the high-pressure, high-temperature conditions found in the Earth’s mantle. This method involves placing a carbon source in a press and subjecting it to the necessary conditions to form a diamond.

– Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) Method: Layer by Layer: Another method for creating synthetic diamonds is chemical vapor deposition, where a carbon-containing gas is broken down, and carbon atoms are deposited onto a substrate, growing a diamond layer by layer.