Curated: The Importance of Artistry and Design

When it comes to jewelry making, it may seem obvious that artistry and design are at the core. Alternatively, in the world of watchmaking, form often follows function with an emphasis on the mechanics of the movement, and any additional artistry is the cherry on top. However, in today’s world, we no longer need watches as the tools they once were. Instead, it’s worth arguing that the tables have turned, and the technical prowess of a watch is beginning to play second fiddle to outstanding design. 

Bulgari 

For some brands, the goal is to achieve greatness in every facet: technical, design, and artistry. Bulgari is one company constantly negotiating these elements with exceptional results. The Italian brand originated as a jeweler and continues this lineage with emblematic design codes like that of the Serpenti, as well as other colors and shapes from its Roman roots, like the mosaic floors of the Caracalla Baths. 

These design elements have gone on to translate into Bulgari’s expansion into watches. However, in the world of horology, the maison has had the opportunity to build on its core design pillars with the addition of mechanical excellence. This is most notable through the brand’s Octo Finissimo line, which has served as a platform for experimenting with materials and accomplishing feats of record thinness. In just over a decade, Bulgari has notched a whopping 10 world records with its ultra-slim designs. However, the Octo line goes beyond incredible construction, integrating artistry as well, with interpretations like one of the latest editions in collaboration with the South Korean painter and sculptor Lee Ufan. 

Piaget 

Like Bulgari, Piaget is another brand that combines its expertise in jewelry and watchmaking to develop design-focused creations. However, unlike Bulgari, Piaget started out in the world of horology and later expanded its catalog to include jewelry. This segue was organic. Piaget’s watches are marked by their unique metalwork and engraving techniques as well as their use of color and material, all of which naturally lent themselves to jewelry design. Today, the maison is constantly blurring the line between the two with creations like its Swinging Sautoir watches adorned with precious stones like diamonds and semi-precious stones like tiger’s eye and opal. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre 

It doesn’t take the double threat of being a watch and jewelry maker to produce artistic designs. Some watch brands and jewelry brands remain firmly in their lane and elevate the elements of artistry and design exclusively in one medium. Jaeger-LeCoultre fully embodies this approach. The brand’s most iconic design — the Reverso — was originally engineered for function. The one-of-a-kind case design protected the dial from impact when worn during sports, and was initially developed for polo players. However, the case quickly became a canvas that has gone on to feature intricate enamel work, guilloche, engraving, gem-setting, lacquering or a combination of these artistic crafts, as can be seen in the Reverso One Precious Flowers models. 

Kwiat 

While materials are an inherent part of design, sometimes the best design simply comes down to shape. Yes, when you typically think of diamonds or other precious stones, quality and color are often top of mind, but there’s an argument to be made for the power the right cut can bring out in the quality and color of the stone and bring to a design as a whole. Today, Kwiat has perfected six unique shapes, and it’s the only brand in the United States through which clients can access the patented Ashoka cut, as showcased in the brand’s Cobblestone rings. Whether it comes to the brand’s proprietary cuts or classic cuts, each has a different set of constraints in order to get the angles and proportions just perfect. 

Vhernier 

Vhernier is strictly a jewelry brand, but it has a subtle tie to watchmaking. It is part of the Richemont Group, whose portfolio also includes powerhouse brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre as well as Cartier, IWC, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron Constantin, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Vhernier is an Italian brand like Bulgari, and like Bulgari, architecture is a major source of inspiration for its designs. The maison also takes a page out of the watchmaking handbook when it comes to material, employing, for example, aluminum in place of traditional precious metals in collections like the Ardis, which consists of rings, bracelets, and earrings.