Ceramic Watches: Not as New of a Trend as You Might Think

Given how niche ceramic remains as a case material, one might be quick to think that the material is rather new to the industry. Granted, its roots don’t go back as far as cases made of gold or stainless steel, but a little digging will quickly uncover the fact that the material has been used in watchmaking for over 50 years now. It’s not without its quirks, but ceramic is a godsend for those who wear their watches frequently, and who grow weary of the constant risk of scuffs and scratches. Through the years there have been a handful of brands that pioneered the use of the material, and even now a few continue to push the bounds of what can be done with a ceramic watch case. Where did it all start, and why? That’s why we’re here today, as well as to have a look at some of the better examples found in the watch industry today.

Defining Ceramic

 Even before we touch the conversation of the history of ceramic in watchmaking, we need to take a look at formal definitions. Ceramic as it is known in watchmaking is a rather specific variation on an otherwise broadly defined material. Porcelain is ceramic, earthenware pottery is ceramic. If we turn to Merriam Webster for a moment, the definition of ceramic is as follows: of or relating to the manufacture of any product (such as earthenware, porcelain, or brick) made essentially from a nonmetallic mineral (such as clay) by firing at a high temperature. That said, the lines immediately begin to blur, as tungsten carbide is viewed as a ceramic by many. If we’re to be true to the dictionary, that isn’t accurate. It instead lands under the definition of Cermet (surprisingly, yes, it’s a real word). What gets even more blurry is that we have seen watches cased in what brands will call Cermet, where the reality is that its case is an inner metal housing surrounded by a ceramic outer shell. Such is the case with the JLC Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet from 2013.

Long story short, most ceramic in watchmaking is actually ceramic, however some will blur the lines from time to time. At the end of the day, the key properties that make the material practical for watchmaking are always present. It’s durable, it’s lightweight, it’s hypoallergenic, and it’s more scratch resistant than any other case material shy of sapphire. In the same breath it’s not without its flaws. Ceramic is harder to work with than steel, and thus most ceramic watches come with at least a modest premium over their steel counterparts. It also isn’t impervious to damage. Drop a steel watch onto concrete from 3 or 4 feet and you’ll get a good dent in its case (ignoring movement failure for a moment). Drop a ceramic watch in the same fashion, and you’re more likely to see an unrepairable chipped or cracked case. So, keep your strap in good shape, don’t be a klutz, and your ceramic watch should last forever.

Tungsten Carbide, and the Ceramic Origin Story

As we alluded to above, tungsten carbide was effectively the gateway drug when it came to getting ceramic into the watch industry. The year was 1962, and Rado was the culprit in question. A clever marketing play, granted, the Rado DiaStar 1 was unveiled as the world’s first scratchproof watch, featuring a case and bracelet of tungsten carbide, and a sapphire crystal (which was far from the norm at the time). It was a niche watch then, and it continues to be a niche watch now in Rado’s current production offering.

From there, Omega was the next to enter the cermet/tungsten carbide ring, with a Seamaster Cermet that was a piece offered on special order in the ‘70s and ‘80s. Sadly, these pieces didn’t have much luck catching on either, though this period can be viewed as the precursor extensive use of ceramic that we see from Omega today. Who the “real” pioneer of ceramic watchmaking was may come as a bit of a surprise to you, considering that the material only plays a small niche role in their more recent offerings.

A particularly noteworthy watch hit the market in 1985, and it’s one that was also a noteworthy part of our recent discussions on perpetual calendars. That’s right, the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph wasn’t just noteworthy on account of its movement. It also happens to be the first watch built with a proper ceramic watch case. An unexpectedly complicated watch, in an unorthodox material, at a time when the future of mechanical watchmaking remained extremely questionable, this was the story of the Da Vinci—a watch that in its own right played a part in keeping the embers of complicated watchmaking alive. Within the next decade, IWC would return to the material for their first ceramic pilot chronograph, the Fliegerchronograph reference 3705.

As with many trends, it sometimes takes a mainstream push to really change the perspective on a particular material, color, or other design choices. In the case of ceramic, this came in 2000 in the form of the Chanel J12. This was not the first time seeing an entire case and bracelet in proper ceramic, as Rado covered that milestone with the Ceramica in the early ‘90s, but we can safely call it the first launch of a proper “mass market” watch using the material. Its presence in the market (and the marketing dollars behind it) fueled a newfound interest in the material, leading everyone from Blancpain to Bell & Ross to start working with ceramic over the years to come.

If it weren’t for these aforementioned watches, we would not have these greats listed below.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked Limited Edition

 When discussing modern ceramic watches, nothing can really rival the Royal Oak. The first ceramic version was the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 26579CE.OO.1225CE.01, which was followed by this absolutely epic Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked a year later. Its stunning manually-wound caliber seems right at home amidst the brushed and polished details of its black ceramic case and bracelet. Though not the first ceramic bracelet on the market by any stretch, AP is quick to note that the finishing of the Royal Oak bracelet and case in ceramic takes upwards of 600 hours to execute.

IWC Big Pilot’s Top Gun Miramar

 IWC’s spot on the list was a pretty obvious guarantee after their historic contribution to the ceramic watch category, but history aside, IWC’s Big Pilot is such a great application of the use of ceramic case construction. Given the significant proportions of a 48mm pilot’s watch, switching to a ceramic case sheds quite a bit of overall weight. Add to that a set of desert sand indices and hands, laid over an anthracite dial, and you’re left with a charming package that simply wouldn’t come together as well in steel or titanium.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Chronograph “Dark Side of the Moon” Apollo 8

 This is a bit of a special one, as it’s a personal favorite in the ceramic case category, and probably the only Speedmaster that I’d actually contemplate owning. The brushed and polished surfaces of the Speedmaster case translate beautifully in ceramic, and the use of laser ablation on its partially openworked dial and movement bridges give the piece a distinct character that you just don’t see through the majority of the Speedy lineup.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Chronograph

 Like the look of the Openworked AP, but can’t justify the spend? This Zenith Defy El Primero runs pretty close to it in terms of overall aesthetics, and its twin-balance caliber and 1/100th chronograph are still quite impressive in their own right (even if it isn’t an AP tourbillon). Also, not Zenith’s only foray into ceramic cases, the Defy collection now counts more than a handful of ceramic options alongside the usual ferrous materials.

Bell & Ross Aviation BR03-92 Black Camo

 They might not be a part of the “holy trinity,” nor are they at the top of people’s lists when asked to name the industry’s top 5 luxury watch brands, but Bell & Ross consistently delivers good quality and respectable, as well as offering the most significant volume of ceramic cased watches over the last decade or two. For the longest time, most of their instrument-inspired model range was offered in ceramic, whether black, blue, or occasionally even green. The BR03 is very much a “love it or hate it” watch, and if you’re on the fence at all, strapping one on your wrist makes all the difference.