Celebrating 20 Years Of MB&F: A Tribute To Bold Design And Horological Genius With The Longhorns
MB&F’s Longhorn editions honor two decades of redefining the boundaries of watchmaking.
Twenty years ago, my biggest concerns were who I’d ask to the homecoming dance and whether I’d start in that weekend’s football game. Meanwhile, on the other side of the world, Max Büsser was launching MB&F. In our fast-paced world that seems to accelerate with every passing year, anniversaries offer a rare chance to pause and reflect—not just on what we’ve accomplished and overcome, but also on what lies ahead.
To celebrate two decades of innovation, creativity, and boundary-pushing horology, MB&F is releasing two special “Longhorn” anniversary editions: the LM Perpetual and the LM Sequential Flyback.
When the press release announcing these watches landed in my inbox, I immediately messaged Jack and said, “I need to write this story.” Now, I’ve never been known for a deep obsession with MB&F, so I’m sure he was curious why I suddenly felt so strongly about covering this release. My reply was simple: “Well, if you didn’t know already, I’m a sucker for weird lugs.” And that brings us to today.
The Backstory Of The Longhorns
The story of these releases actually begins long before today. The Longhorn concept first emerged in 2009 during the conceptual phase of the now-iconic LM1. Like many MB&F creations, it started as a bold idea that evolved over time. The concept of elongated lugs, or “horns,” while artistically striking and visually distinctive, posed significant challenges in terms of wearability. After all, watches are meant to be worn, not left forgotten in a safety deposit box.
Long lugs bring a unique design dilemma: where to position the spring bars. Placing them closer to the case leaves excessive metal extending outward, potentially digging into the wrist. Moving them closer to the tips of the lugs, however, can create an unsightly gap between the strap and the case. Combined with the wide range of wrist sizes among wearers, this design choice quickly became problematic.
Ultimately, the Longhorn concept was shelved—left in the “design graveyard”—until its resurrection in 2021 for the tenth anniversary of the LM1. By then, the LM1 line had been discontinued, but a prototype still existed. Never a brand to shy away from challenges, MB&F revisited the concept and devised a simple yet ingenious solution to the lug dilemma: drill two sets of spring bar holes and let the wearer choose their preferred fit. Sometimes the simplest answer really is the best.
The LM1 Longhorn prototype also stood out with its stainless steel case, a notable departure from the materials typically used in the LM1 collection, such as white gold, red gold, platinum, or titanium. Prior to this, the only LM1 models featuring stainless steel cases were the 18 “Final Edition” pieces released in 2017. This unique prototype eventually sold for CHF 277,200 (approximately $303,000 at today’s exchange rate), with proceeds going to the Save The Rhino charity.
The New Releases
First up, we have the LM Perpetual Longhorn, a reimagining of MB&F’s GPHG-winning perpetual calendar that originally made waves in 2015. Developed in collaboration with the brilliant Stephen McDonnell, this isn’t your average perpetual calendar. Instead, it’s powered by a 581-component, fully integrated movement designed from scratch to sidestep the headaches of traditional perpetual calendars. Mr. Büsser once referred to perpetual calendars as “boomerangs” because they inevitably find their way back to the workshop for repairs.
McDonnell’s approach, however, was a complete reimagining of the concept, addressing its inherent flaws with a fresh perspective. His design didn’t start with the typical mindset of skipping over non-existent dates but rather with a simple, profound realization—one that reminds me of the classic riddle: “How many months have 28 days?” The answer, of course, is all of them.
That fundamental understanding became the foundation for a groundbreaking perpetual calendar, one that was no longer bound by the limitations of traditional designs. Think no skipped dates, no jammed gears, and a system that automatically disables the adjuster pushers during date changes—small details, sure, but game-changing for durability and usability.
For this anniversary edition, limited to just 20 pieces, McDonnell’s mechanical masterpiece takes on a fresh look with the addition of longhorn lugs and a black, silver, and blue color scheme that feels both modern and classic at once. It’s a perpetual calendar built for the MB&F faithful who demand something just a bit edgier.
Next, we have the LM Sequential Flyback Longhorn, another creation from McDonnell’s horological playbook. The Sequential series debuted in 2022 as MB&F’s first-ever chronograph—a milestone in its own right—but this one pushes even further. The Sequential EVO broke ground with its “Twinverter” binary switch, offering independent timing, split-second, cumulative, and lap-timer modes. It didn’t just impress watch enthusiasts; it snagged the Aiguille d’Or, watchmaking’s highest honor.
The Flyback edition, however, steps up the game by adding—what else?—a flyback function. Originally designed with pilots in mind, this feature brings the Sequential into aviation territory, proving it’s just as comfortable in the cockpit as it is on a racetrack. And now, with those signature longhorn lugs, glossy black subdials, and brilliant blued hands, this limited edition feels like a bold start to MB&F’s 20th anniversary celebrations.
One noteworthy aspect of the Sequential that stood out during my research is the focus of online discussions and reviews. As you browse through the hot takes and media fodder surrounding this watch, you’ll notice a recurring emphasis on the revolutionary ‘Twinverter.’ However, if you pay attention to what the brilliant Stephen McDonnell says himself, it’s actually the jeweled vertical clutch that deserves the spotlight. For a deeper technical dive into the Sequential, including an exploration of this feature, you can check out Jack’s review here.
My Take
The longhorn-style lugs on these two models feel like a purposeful modification beyond aesthetics, addressing the substantial 44mm case size. These extended lugs grip the wearer’s wrist in a way that ensures a secure fit, making the watches accessible and comfortable for a wide range of wrist sizes. I for one love it, as someone with smaller wrists, these lugs actually make it possible for me to enjoy a larger watch, and as previously stated, I am a sucker for weird lugs.
That said, some things take time to appreciate. It might take a few tries, or it might come with deeper understanding and education. For me, MB&F has been exactly that: a brand I didn’t fully grasp when I first entered the world of watches but have come to deeply admire as I’ve learned more about what drives them and the minds behind their creations.
This press release couldn’t have landed in my inbox at a better time. Serendipity struck as I just finished drafting a deep dive into the “Titans of Independent Horology,” naturally featuring MB&F, and recently watched Stephen McDonnell’s captivating talk at Dubai Watch Week. His insights, paired with Max Büsser’s discussion on “Thinking Differently” at the same event, gave me a whole new lens through which to view MB&F. When all these moments aligned with the announcement of these anniversary releases, it became clear this review wasn’t just about two watches—it was about celebrating the artistry, philosophy, and sheer humanity of MB&F.
MB&F, in my opinion, is an acquired taste, but one that signifies, “signs of horological maturity.” Early on, I didn’t fully appreciate their creations. But now, having gained a deeper understanding of what drives the brand, I see them in a completely different light. They’re not just making watches—they’re creating art, telling stories, challenging conventions, and, as Stephen McDonnell eloquently put it, “answering the unasked question.”
In his talk, McDonnell revealed himself as a man who is both a genius and a tormentor of his own craft. He is consumed by the nuances and flaws in his creations, so much so that he didn’t attend the GPHG ceremony when he was first awarded and has never even worn the perpetual calendar that has cemented his legacy. For McDonnell, watchmaking isn’t just a profession—it’s a relentless pursuit of hidden beauty, a passion that borders on obsession. As he said during his Dubai Watch Week talk, “Watchmaking is the perfect vehicle to allow overindulgence of this tendency [to obsess over details] to get completely out of control.”
This obsession isn’t superficial; it’s rooted in love and beauty. He explained, “It has no reason except for love and beauty, and the beauty is hidden. The best and most interesting things are the things that don’t reveal themselves completely but show themselves in the shadows… The closer you look, the more you see.” These words capture not just McDonnell’s philosophy but the soul of MB&F itself. Their watches invite you to look closer, to discover layer upon layer of detail and meaning.
And then there’s Mr. Büsser. In his Dubai talk with Wei Koh, he explored the idea of being a “mercenary” versus a “missionary.” I’ll spare you the full details—though I strongly encourage you to watch it yourself—as he described the missionary vision of presenting horology in an artistic manner. He’s not just creating watches; he’s creating art infused with humanity and sincerity. To own an MB&F, as McDonnell so poignantly put it, “is to wear a piece of his soul.” That sentiment struck me deeply. It’s not just a watch; it’s a connection to something pure and beautiful, and that’s pretty damn powerful.
These first two releases of MB&F’s 20th-anniversary celebration—the LM Perpetual Longhorn and the LM Sequential Flyback Longhorn—are a tribute to McDonnell’s brilliance. Both watches highlight not just his technical expertise but his ability to pour his heart into every design detail. His quotes, like the ones from his Dubai Watch Week talk, offer profound insight into his psyche: “The torment of endlessly searching for the hidden flaw” or “What pushes watchmakers and innovation is to answer the unasked question.” These are the words of a man who sees watchmaking as both an art and a calling.
As MB&F kicks off their 20th anniversary, these two releases serve as a reminder of what makes them extraordinary: a relentless pursuit of the unachievable, a celebration of beauty in the shadows, and a willingness to take risks others wouldn’t dare.
Specs and Details
The LM Perpetual Longhorn is limited to 20 pieces in stainless steel with black lacquered subdials. It features a fully integrated in-house perpetual calendar movement has 581 components, a mechanical processor with an inbuilt safety mechanism, and a bespoke 14 mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws. The manual-winding movement offers a 72-hour power reserve and runs at 2.5Hz (18,000vph), with superlative 19th-century-inspired hand finishing, including polished bevels, internal angles, and Geneva waves.
Functions include hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year, and power reserve indicators. Housed in a 44 mm x 17.5 mm case with sapphire crystals on both sides, it is water-resistant to 30 meters. Completing the look is a calf leather strap with a stainless steel folding buckle.
The LM Sequential Flyback Longhorn, is limited to 20 pieces in stainless steel with black lacquered subdials. Powered by a fully integrated in-house dual chronograph flyback system featuring the innovative Twinverter switch, enabling multiple timing modes. The manual-winding movement, has 619 components, offers a 72-hour power reserve and runs at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 vph). The flying balance wheel with a Breguet overcoil is prominently positioned at 12 o’clock, and the movement showcases exceptional hand-finishing, including polished bevels, Geneva waves, and intricate engravings.
Functions include time display at 6 o’clock, two independent chronographs (with start/stop/reset/flyback controls), and the Twinverter pusher at 9 o’clock, which inverses the start/stop status of both chronographs. A power reserve indicator is visible on the back of the movement. Housed in a 44 mm x 18.2 mm case with sapphire crystals on both sides, it is water-resistant to 30 meters. The watch is paired with a calf leather strap and a stainless steel folding buckle.
For more information visit www.mbandf.com