In Focus: Patek Philippe Calatrava Skeleton; Ref. 5180/1G
Patek Philippe is known for its range of complications, grand complications, and rare handcrafts. Among those horological heavy hitters lives a lesser-known Calatrava reference: the ultra-thin, hand-engraved 5180/1G Calatrava Skeleton.
Simple in execution, a two-hand watch might not seem like much to write home about, but the 5180/1G has all the panache of a complicated Patek Philippe. This reference brings inimitable charm to the Patek Philippe range: ornate and open-worked watchmaking, with every detail available for the eye to see.
Over 130 hours are spent engraving nearly every surface on both sides of the movement. The volutes, arabesques, and individual lines of engraving create a visual presence where each master engraver leaves their signature in their technique. The (second) best thing you can own when you have this watch is a loupe, as it allows a deeper appreciation of the skeletonization, decoration, and engraving techniques.
Powered by the venerable Caliber 240, the 5180 has an incredibly thin profile, and its micro-rotor movement allows you to appreciate and experience the full depth of the watchmaking. Encased in white gold, this piece is fitted with a white gold bracelet that combines flexibility and just enough heft to provide a delightful wrist presence. Blued hands add a pop of color and ease of legibility, while the only branding is the Calatrava cross at the 2 o’clock position, a subtle nod to Patek’s heritage.
The 5180/1G is the truest expression of Patek’s watchmaking prowess, craftsmanship, and skilled artistry. It should be the standard against which all art-centric Patek Philippe watches are measured.
The Specs
Model: Patek Philippe Calatrava Skeleton
Reference Number: 5180/1G-010
Case Size + Material: 39mm case in 18k white gold
Caseback: Exhibition caseback
Movement: Caliber 240 SQU; automatic mechanical movement with micro-rotor
Functions: Hours and minutes
Strap/Bracelet: 18k white gold bracelet