10 Things You Should Know About Buccellati
Masterful Textured Gold and Italian Renaissance Craftsmanship
Buccellati was the first Italian jeweler to open a store in the United States.
Mario Buccellati opened a boutique in New York in 1954 on 51st Street, cementing the brand’s global reputation for luxury. The maison has been described by the American press as the “Van Cleef & Arpels of Italy.”
Ever since its creation in 1919 by Mario and Gianmaria Buccellati, the brand has remained a family-owned business for most of its history.
Mario’s son played a significant role in continuing his father’s legacy—expanding the brand internationally and creating new iconic collections. Even though the Richemont Group acquired 100% of the company in 2022, Buccellati family members are still involved in creative decisions. Luca remains in charge of VIP clients, Maria Cristina leads the creative studio as director, and Lucrezia—who just turned 35—oversees fine jewelry and more accessible lines.
In 1979, Buccellati became the only Italian jewelry house among the elite institutional jewelers to open a boutique on Place Vendôme.
Jacques Chirac, Marcello Mastroianni, and Anouk Aimée were among the notable guests who attended the inauguration.
The Mario Leaf and Blossom collections feature designs starting at $450, crafted in silver and adorned with diamonds or sapphires.
These pieces embrace a more modern, substantial style, serving as bold statement jewels while remaining true to Buccellati’s distinctive DNA.
Textured gold mastery.
One of the reasons so many women around the world adore Buccellati is because of the house’s command of textured gold, especially in bracelets, earrings, and rings including techniques such as rigato (fine parallel lines seen in the Macri collection), ornato (decorative motifs), modellato (sculptural engraving), and telato (a fabric-like texture).
The honeycomb pattern has been a Buccellati signature for decades.
Created through tulle work—a labor-intensive, lace-like goldsmithing technique—the honeycomb effect is achieved by threading gold back and forth to form tiny openwork patterns. This hallmark is a testament to Buccellati’s devotion to detail and craftsmanship.
Mario Buccellati invented the Eternelle ring in the early 1940s as a symbol of eternal love.
If you look closely at its construction, you’ll notice it has no beginning or end—its circularity enclosing the light and preciousness of love itself.
Gianmaria dedicated one of the house’s most iconic collections.
La Macri, to the refined grace of his daughter, Maria Cristina. “Macri”—a shortened form of her name—is where the virtuosity of the rigato technique truly shines. Many collectors begin their Buccellati journey with a Macri ring or bangle—but in truth, every Macri piece is exquisite.
Buccellati often selects rare, unconventional gemstones such as mandarin garnet, Paraiba tourmaline, or padparadscha sapphire placing greater value on color, texture, and artistry than on size.
The house’s affinity for stones like tourmaline, aquamarine, and opal reflects its Renaissance-inspired ethos, where jewelry celebrates natural beauty over conventional norms. This deep connection to Italian Renaissance art is also visible in the house’s designs, which incorporate mixed metals, ornate engravings, and lace-like goldwork reminiscent of classical goldsmithing.
While jewelry is the brand’s cornerstone, Buccellati is also revered for its handcrafted silverware.
Much like Tiffany & Co., Buccellati is celebrated for its delicate floral and animal motifs. Its silver collections—spanning picture frames, candleholders, and serving platters—are crafted with the same artisanal techniques and meticulous attention to detail as its fine jewelry.