The NEXT Rolex Quest

Whether you’re completely new to the brand, or you’ve owned a half dozen or more by now, inevitably a watch collector is destined to face the question of “what Rolex comes next?” When the time comes, there are a lot of options to sift through that run through a wide range of styles and price brackets. Whether vintage or modern, dressy or utility, classic or contemporary, the Rolex catalog is quite diverse, all without ever straying too far from its roots.

What Model To Buy For Your Next Rolex

For some, the decision will be an easy one, but for others, there’s destined to be some debate as to which reference is best fitted to their watch collections. Or maybe it’s their first-ever big watch purchase, and the question is more about what they’ll get the most wear and enjoyment out of. With that in mind, we’ve tried to break down some of the options, and who they’re best suited to.

The Rolex Submariner

When it comes to pure and clean utility, the Rolex Submariner really is an easy choice. It’s one of the most utility-focused Rolex there is or ever has been, and yet one that still holds all of the status and prestige that the brand holds dear. Contrary to popular belief, the Submariner is not one to be paired with a suit and tie, nor is it really a watch that properly fits with any sort of business attire, but if you live life on the more casual and adventurous side of the spectrum, the Submariner is the kind of thing you can strap on and go about your day without ever fearing for its safety.

For us, anything from the reference 16800 onward—the first reference to be fitted with a sapphire crystal—is the way to go, as even references from the ‘80s and ‘90s have enough modern niceties that they can take the beating of daily life without any fuss. They deliver a water resistance of 300m, and are fitted with either the caliber 3035 or 3135 automatic movement, both of which have a quick-set date and run at an industry-standard 4Hz. Going older than that, you’re dealing with an older caliber, lower water resistance, and an acrylic crystal. You’ll also be facing much steeper entry prices, as the vintage Sub market continues to rise as of late.

The 39mm Oyster Perpetual 114300 of 2015

This time we’re getting a touch more precise, but such is the way when dealing with those with a detail-oriented purview of design. The reference 114300 appeared in a handful of lovely combinations in 2015, each with little punchy contrasting markers at every 5-minute increment on its outer track. Whether the grape dial with red markers, the ruthenium dial with cool blue, or the navy blue dial with a surprising shade of neon green, these are the subtle yet unorthodox Rolex references dedicated to those outside the typical Rolex buying wheelhouse.

Though offered in a couple of different case sizes, the 39mm references remain the go-to both for their versatility, as well as the fact that the case size has been recently cut from the Oyster Perpetual line (at least for now). Currently trading hands north of their retail list price, floating somewhere around the $8,000 mark at the time of publishing, they aren’t quite as inflated as some of the other modern steel Rolex references we’ve seen as of late.

The Milgauss

Though we just discussed a watch that can be seen as the Rolex for the “I’m not a Rolex guy” guy, the modern Milgauss is really the bastard child of them all. Its crystal is green and its second hand is a lightning bolt—what more needs to be said? Design cues aside, the Milgauss is anything but just another pretty face. It’s a watch (like many Rolex references) with tons of history.

So, the story goes, it was the CERN research lab that reached out to Rolex, asking them to develop a watch to withstand significant magnetic fields back in the late ‘50s, and thus the Milgauss (1,000 gauss) was born. In modern guise, the 40mm reference still offers the same magnetic resistance, and the same aforementioned lightning bolt hand that was carried forward from the very early reference 6541.

The Explorer

Could there be a single Rolex to handle all aspects of life in a single package? Enter the Explorer—another piece of the brand’s heritage that persists in the catalog through to present day. Fitted with a screw-down crown, it delivers 100m of water resistance, which is more than enough for any daily adventure (including a good swim).

Over the years it’s been available in either 36mm or 39mm case sizes, so it’s modest enough to slide under a shirt cuff and pull double duty as an “almost dress watch.” Yes, this is the boardroom to backyard project to nightclub watch that many have dreamed of finding all these years. Its 3-6-9 dial can be picked out of a crowd by any novice watch collector, so it’s not entirely “under the radar,” but the fact that it’s only ever seen with a black dial means it’s not all that flashy either.

The Vintage Datejust

We said what we said, and we will stand by it. A vintage Datejust—especially a two-tone reference with a fluted bezel—is still a bit of the “hipster’s first Rolex, but that’s not a bad thing. There are a ton of them out there. Plain colors, linen dials, champagne dials, smooth or fluted bezels, turn-o-graphs; the world really is your Oyster (case).

This broad availability is typically found in the more compact case sizes, either 34mm or 36mm, but this also means they’re one of the more affordable options you’ll find in the market. These are definitely dressier, and more delicate than things like a Sub or Explorer, but the Rolex legacy dictates that they’ll just keep on ticking for decades, come hell or high water (or pandemic and a world on fire).

The Rainbow Daytona

A Daytona of any kind belonged somewhere in this list, however, the underappreciated reference that always sings to us belongs on the wrist of someone who’s over caring about the opinions of strangers or the general consensus/status quo will always be the Rainbow Daytona.

Just look at it, glimmering in all its gem-set glory, laden with sapphires and other precious stones cherry-picked for their perfect harmonious clarity. It’s truly a magical thing, before you get to its high spec in-house caliber 4130 that Rolex brought to market some 21 years ago now. For some, it will be too flashy, but for a special few it will be downright perfect.

The Air-King

Last but not least, we’re left with the Air-King. While we gave the Milgauss the nod for the non-conformist, the Air-King has long been the true Rolex underdog. Prior to the most recent reference, right up to the 114200, all Air-Kings were only 34mm across, which rules them out for most people. Prior to the modern version, they were also offered with an odd selection of dials that would lead some to confuse them with OPs or Explorers.

In its latest form, the Air-King is a bizarre design amalgam that takes reference from a now-defunct land speed record project, and to some is viewed as the Rolex built from the spare parts bin. Personally, we find the modern version quite charming, as it has a distinct pilot’s watch vibe that is never seen in the brand’s work. It’s quirky, it’s weird, and it’s basically the “middle child” of Rolex watches. Doesn’t really fit in, stands out from the pack, and most often doesn’t get the attention it deserves. Let’s change that, shall we?